Making progress...

[Skidmark]

Finally getting some progress on my prep list for the Mojave Road run! One spindle needed re-shimming. Closest shop that sells link pin shims? Reno, 45 miles away. One of the costs of living more remotely. Front end is back together and greased. One rear trailing arm shifted in the spring plate, so had to realign the rear and re-torque everything. Skid plate and new rear tires are back on. So all of the major chassis prep is completed. Now on to the "little" stuff!

[Leatherneck]

Do you have the rear trailing arm in slots or bolt holes, I’m guessing slots since you adjusted. Hoping to catch up to you in a couple weeks Skid.

[CentralWAbaja]

Are you really complaining about having VW parts within 50 miles? You move out of the bug hub to the mountains and still can hop in the car and grab what you need and be back to work in less then 2 hrs. Closest VW parts to me is 100+ miles

[Skidmark]

Yeah, I have been spoiled. Used to live within 5 miles of McKenzie's. My new place is a lot more remote than where I moved from, but not near as remote as others like you. When I wanted a piece of .25" thick carbon steel sheet (24"x 24") to build a weld fixture for another project, the nearest place in Carson City wanted $400 for a 48" square piece (smallest they would sell). I ended up driving to Reno and got the 24" square piece for less than $60. Having raw metal shipped can get expensive due to the weight. Schorr Metals was only a mile from my old house, too. The nearest motorcycle salvage yard to me now is in Sacramento. But I am still happy I made the move, and would never go back!

[Skidmark]

Do you have the rear trailing arm in slots or bolt holes, I’m guessing slots since you adjusted. Hoping to catch up to you in a couple weeks Skid.

Leather - the stock VW dual spring plates have three slots. Not very big ones, but they do allow for some toe adjustment. I have added a fourth hole and bolt. Unfortunately they allow my trailing arms to pivot as well, which throws off the camber. I can always tell when one rear wheel is at a different angle than the other. This happened a lot with the wider rear tires hitting the body under full compression. Hoping for less of that with the new 10.5's instead of the 12.5's.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Are you really complaining about having VW parts within 50 miles? You move out of the bug hub to the mountains and still can hop in the car and grab what you need and be back to work in less then 2 hrs. Closest VW parts to me is 100+ miles

Do you use the new Autovice store in Monroe now that the Lynnwood store closed as his shop was sold out from under him? Different owners now.

Lee

[CentralWAbaja]

Did not know they were gone in Lynnwood. Might have to check that out as I usually go to Fife to Ovals.

[Leatherneck]

So what is the latest, been on any rides?

[Skidmark]

I just got home from a week in Calgary, visiting my brother. I haven't been out much, since I do not like going alone (I have this rule of two vehicles minimum for safety purposes). Shayne was supposed to be coming up for a few days this week, but his car is not running again. Waiting to see when he will be able to get it running and come up.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Did not know they were gone in Lynnwood. Might have to check that out as I usually go to Fife to Ovals.

If I remember correctly Doug said that the shop had been sold out from underneath him (at least that is what i remember him saying). There is some building and re-model work being done in that area but not at the Autovice as far as I can tell (when going up 99 I usually am too busy driving to look up the hill).

Autovice/Bowwow is now in Monroe across the street from the fairgrounds. They only sell VW (et al ?) parts in the later part of the week according to the prerecorded phone message) so call first before you head over. I haven't been there yet but I might have to soon.

Right now I go to The Bug Germinator in North Bend Or when I am down there.

Lee

[Skidmark]

I am now about 98% moved into my new shop. I just installed a new air compressor, and followed the break in procedure for the two stage motor (oil bath). After I anchor it to the floor using vibration pads, it will be time to make a decision on what type of hard air lines to use to plumb the shop with. So many choices out there, it makes it difficult to decide. Copper, black pipe, aluminum tube, PEX, etc. No, I will not be using PVC. I have seen many use this, but everything I read says not to. PVC will oxidize over time and become brittle, and it fragments when it ruptures. It also does not help in cooling down the compressed air as it comes out of the compressor. Oil particles in the air also don't help the life of PVC. As of now, I am strongly leaning toward copper pipe. Any wizards out there with sage advice?

[Skidmark]

My new compressor, and the 80 gal accumulator tank that will be plumbed to it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Make sure it is properly attached to the floor as they will dance when running especially when they get older. Make sure that the drain is easily accessible and draining is done after each day's use. Also, keep the wiring close for easy connect and disconnect as there are some tools that require the same connection to run so you can connect and disconnect easily and not have to install a second outlet.

Complaint: your room is too clean!

Lee

[Skidmark]

After I anchor it to the floor using vibration pads, it will be time to make a decision on what type of hard air lines to use to plumb the shop with.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The guys who put mine in (drilled the holes and put the liners in for t he bolts to go into and spread them out) when my house was built had to leave it in the box because of the inspector asking too many questions so it was: the owner is going to do the mount and wiring. I didn't have vibration pads because I didn't know about them I guess.

I once went to a garage visit on a Saturday, the club I belonged to at the time...

IMG_1824 copy.jpg

..went to three garages on a Saturday for this tour. The first place we went was to the guy who invented the bar codes (he has since passed away). As you entered the driveway is address was in a bar code made from metal bars; it was fairly large but in the trees and brush.

The garage was a slight "V" shaped and had something like a 13 stalls/work areas in it (after we left I was told we saw only the top floor). Anyway, getting to what I wanted to talk about was that from his compressor there was a copper line that spread just below the wall to ceiling join and it traveled to each end of the garage. At each join for the air line to drop down the join was not at the bottom of the tube but there was a 90° join facing up, another 90° tied to a short length of tube then another 90° that went down to the connector for the hose. Lower than that, maybe 4" (its been over 20 years now) at each drop was a drain valve. The tube between the connector and the valve was to holed the condensation. The reason for the loop at the top was for the same reason.

The tube discussion is for what it is worth.

Lee