Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.
Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Some of the hand problem is old age, heredity and last weeks abuse. My lawn mower does not come with the potentially expensive aftermarket pusher so it is part of the overall electronics. It has a second position for a second battery (good for about another 60 minutes and so far the lawn takes just under 60 minutes to do.
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Lotrat, since I didn't have a good pix to rely on when not in the garage I took this one for in-house reference. This V6 came out of a Merc Bobcat (Pinto) hence the funny shaped pan going over the crossmember. The filter was in the front of the Merc but now that it is in a VW the filter is more towards a mid-ship but still behind the axle. I built this engine in the early 90s with a bore of 0.030 over stock and the rockers to valves gap has yet to be set. I don't remember if they are solid or hydraulic lifters but the cam is an RV style of grind: high lift but short duration for more torque.

Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Finally got out to the garage and drilled the pilot holes on both mounts today; not bad but on the last hole the drill bit walked a bit on me. I think it walked about 0.01 or 0.02 and while frustrating I think I can deal with it OK. I had noticed the flash from the previous hole looked different indicating that the drill bit needed sharpening but checking it visually it didn't look as bad as it turned out to be.

The bluing showed some spots I need to touch with the welder but basically some deburring of the pilot holes and the flanges on the bottom pieces in place need to be cleaned up.

Lee
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Leatherneck
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Leatherneck »

Lee do you punch the spot to drill before drilling?
Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

We just got an email from one in our group that the southern Oregon dunes are closed! Trying to get the pix that was sent so I can post it.

Lee
Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

I knew that WA had closed things down but not Oregon.
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This is one of the dirt access trails onto the dunes... closed! It says "closed to recreational use"
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This is the Horsfall road just before the camping area. It is also blocking the use area at the end of the road.

Lee
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Leatherneck
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Leatherneck »

That’s crazy. This stuff is nutz
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

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This is my band saw that I built the now mount for a while back. I think I bought it back in the early to mid-90s so it has a horizontal plate on it. I don't think the other copies carry the plate anymore... but it does come in handy.

The stock you see here is 3/16" vs. the 1/8th inch of the 1 X 4 rectangular tube stock. I was surprised just how fast, and how straight of a cut I could make with it.
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This shows the spacers and the tube mounts. Yesterday I drilled the pilot holes for the assembly of the three pieces: the mount itself, the spacer and the mounts for the fuel tank assy. Today or tomorrow, I will either have to cut some new tank mounts assuming the ones I already have cut don't fit right or will be able to tack all three pieces together so I can align drill the bolt holes.

The dark spots are the welding areas that haven't been polished clear yet.

The "D" in the spacer place is the area to be deleted plus so the mount will fit around the tab on the trans mount with the gap being a weld to the trans mount tab then grind the weld smooth. It's complicated and I hope it works.
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This shows the spacers sitting in place on the mounts prior to cutting the hole.

There is going to be a lot of polishing and touchup welding still to do.

Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

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I did the pilot holes in the mangled tube at the bottom and marked the location for the removal of the area around the trans mount tab Sunday (I think it was Sunday) so today I clamped each of the three piece mount together then drilled the holes through all three pieces (I did get some walking on one hole bug not enough to worry about.
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The other day I found this drill set that I have had for so long I had forgotten about it. It makes things much easier once you have the pilot hole located and drilled.
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The other day I was talking to some one about stress cracks in square corners that don't have a radius for stress relief or are at 90 degrees to directional loads. The picture here shows a degree band on my vice intended to be used when the clamp is rotated (I never have used it and won't now :roll: :lol: ). I was cutting the bottoms off the tube I am using and was using a 3" cutting wheel and had been using a 4 1/2 inch cutting wheel not too long before this. Both ends of the band stick out like you see in the top one but the bottom end, being closer to the clamping rivet isn't out as far as the top piece you see here.

Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Did some work out in the garage today. Not sure about the pix as somehow my editing program is screwing up.
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I notched the spacer to accommodate the tab on the trans mount. This side (the pass side) has a bit bigger gap than I wanted but it is still usable.
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This shows the passenger side mount with the fuel tank on top of the spacer. Until I weld up the trans mount and the spacer it is a slip-in fit and clamped by bolts. With the bolts tightened the fit is good but the gap to the trans mount is a bit less than I would like it. I think it is OK but...

Not sure yet if I am going to use the cap head or standard head bolts.
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This is a rough put together of the fuel tank mounts.
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This is roughly how the tank will fit. It isn't located yet as the rest of t he mounting needs to be figured out but it will give you and idea of where I am heading. There also will have to be a cross spacer just behind the engine for when I am at angles, such as "facing a dune", and the fuel has moved to the low side of the tank.

Lee

I forgot to add that I did temporally tape the cardboard mockup piece that connects the outboard side if the mount to the lower mount on the trans mount. Tight but a wrench will fit up inside and be usable at the closed area of the mount. I still have some things to do before the close out part of the mount are made then the whole mount can be welded up into one piece.

Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

I got looking at the mounts for the fuel tank so I started with the rear uprights locating them on the mounts (in this case a scrap mount) then giving them some strength as I am dealing with not only a fluid but an easily ignitable fluid.

I located the center of the pad by drawing some diagonals then marked the 1" size of the square tube (shown in the last pix below).
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This is pretty basic but I adjusted the angle of the clamp on my bandsaw (in the horizontal position) to 45 degree° then cut the end off the tube (in this case some 3/4" tube)
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Then I flipped the tube over, aligned the blade to the end of the previous cutoff then whacked that off. Very basic but I have seen people doing it the hard way also.
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Using a couple magnets I held the tube upright and in place. I used two just in case I bumped things when playing around moving things.
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Then mounting the angle pieces in place (2 sides here) to check then...
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I pulled the magnets and placed 2 more angle pieces in place. Will it work... yes I think nothing will be in the way but for now I have some other things to do before any more brackets and tube cutting goes on.

Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Since it looks like we are going through a series of fronts moving through I got back out to the garage today to see how things were fitting with what I have been playing with.
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This is the setup as it stands (no pun intended) right now. The uprights are 8" long although I thought I said 9" when I had them cut at the recycle yard. I lifted the cross piece and measured out close to an inch of gap so I found a piece of 1 X 3 tube and cut it to 9" just to see.
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The upright is still a bit off but not enough to worry about. I can't use the 3" wide material as I would have to make headers as the stock manifold it just too close to the back of the upright (the two angle brackets in the pix was just having fun!). I am not sure when the "distancing limitations" will allow me to go to the recycle place (I am well over the "60 years" age limit).

Lee
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Leatherneck
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Leatherneck »

Lee your not a day over 40. Those massive uprights are for your fuel tank?
Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Leatherneck wrote: Sun Apr 26, 2020 4:13 pm Lee your not a day over 40. Those massive uprights are for your fuel tank?
The last one was the only piece of boxed stock I had in the scrap bin that I could check the 9" height out with. No room for the 1 X 3 tube as the exhaust also needs to share part of the area unless I go with the option of to make headers which could turn out to be the only option.

I don't even remember 40 other than I had my two heart attacks, a week apart, at the age of 44 and getting married shortly there after.

Lee

If you are talking about the height off the pan then that distance is what it takes to get the tank close enough to the body access to be able to fill it safely. That is why, in my opinion, so much sloshing support is necessary.

Lee
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Hey guys, I thought I had posted this picture of the tank in the rear of the body but not mounted.
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Two opposing photos showing the relationship of the tank's fill bib vs. the hole in the top of the deck that will be used for access.
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The next two pictures up show the access hole to access the tank with the marine cover sitting in place (sorry about the dust).
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This shows the deck relief area where the tank will be under showing over the access hole.
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The bottom two pix show the tank sitting in the area where is usually is when not working with it. This is what I refer to as the deck area.

The tank has to be lower than the hole area but not too low. I will tack the mounts in place, clamp the tank in place, put the body back on then center the tank under the opening and clamp/mark the mount hole locations for the bolts. The fit check is to find out if I have to raise the tank up higher and just how much.

Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy

Post by Ol'fogasaurus »

Did some mockup work on the buggy today.
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I did a quick mockup (3 hours) to see just what is going to happen, height and location wise, that is. If I can get my neighbor over tomorrow or Sat I will put the body back on and locate the tank where it is going to be.
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This is the tank sitting on the mockup mount. Location forward or to the rear or height wise will be located by the body.
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This is looking towards the rear. The spreader is there to hold things in line and roughly locate the tank based on mockup only. once the location(s) are figured out then I will make the forward mounting brackets.

The spreader bar shown here is just to hold the front mounts parallel but a two-piece spreader will be needed at the rear uprights as supports for side to side movement. The spreader will be bolted together so the mounts on each side can be removed w/o a lot of rig-a-ma-row being done. Not sure if a diagonal will be needed yet... or not.

The tank will be clamped in place for the time being so it doesn't fall off during the body remount.

Rain is expected tomorrow and over the weekend so if it does then with all the bare metal I have I will have to figure some other way than going outside to do the remount.

Lee
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