Happy Memorial day!
Since we are still somewhat limited to access to things and the shops are closed for the holiday I did get out and play around some with the buggy specializing with the front of the seating area.
I started playing with the front of the cage so I lifted the Tees I had made up to check the level of a cross tube at the 41" level I had planed on. A rear view and the back of the body and the tube look askew but they both check out level.
I ran out of 1" tube and will have to get some more so I used some of the intermediate mounts to check things out. I may have to go higher than this but I was checking for another problem that I don't want to have to do but...
I don't want to have to enter to the pan through the cowl as I wanted to keep the cage removable for updates when needed (there may be a way but not sure if it is a good structural way of doing things. The tape to the left is about 5 1/2" to 7 1/2" from the upright while the other tape is closer to 8 1/8" which it is looking like I may have to deal with. Remember I will be using a larger dia. tube for the cage than the mockup is using.
Lee
Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
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Last edited by Ol'fogasaurus on Mon May 25, 2020 6:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ninelives17
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Happy Memorial day!
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Started cutting for the rear top mounts this am. Kind of watching for the space ship launch which was finally cancelled with the next try on Sat.
I clamped it tighter with this 90° magnet but I will not use this one again for this as it was just too strong and caused the tubes to do what it wanted not what I wanted. I did weld both sides of the seam but had a heck of a time with it. Some how the gas setting was OK but the gas got turned off.
Anyway...
The mount for the upright is in the center. I was going to drill a 1" hole through the V-shape but then thought I would go with the easy way and weld it to the V-shaped piece. Is it not going to work well that way and for so many reasons. Try again tomorrow.
By the way, the thumb screws will be used instead of the tube clamps as I can control things better with them.
Lee
I clamped it tighter with this 90° magnet but I will not use this one again for this as it was just too strong and caused the tubes to do what it wanted not what I wanted. I did weld both sides of the seam but had a heck of a time with it. Some how the gas setting was OK but the gas got turned off.
Anyway...
The mount for the upright is in the center. I was going to drill a 1" hole through the V-shape but then thought I would go with the easy way and weld it to the V-shaped piece. Is it not going to work well that way and for so many reasons. Try again tomorrow.
By the way, the thumb screws will be used instead of the tube clamps as I can control things better with them.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Sorry if I am boring anyone but I am documenting this for me and others so they don't make some of the same mistakes I do.
I drilled out the hole for the upright to sit in but I learned a few lessons while doing it. I had cut the tube at 45° then cut the tube from the other end the same so that when I cut each 45° to length I had 2 sets of mounts: that was OK!
I then welded the two tubes together to form the 90° angle but when I did it I used the strong magnet to form the angle. One thing that turned out was that the top of the seam was tight but, when you rolled it over there was the gap you see here. Since when you are welding you need the gap I didn't worry about it until...
When I welded the two pieces together I knew that I would removing a lot of the weld so I welded about halfway across and made sure I had a good radius in the inside corner for strength.
When I jigged the the welded up assy in the welding clamp I had to have one of the ends not in the drilling jig so I added a tube in the clamped end so as that the drilling jig did not clamp the tube into an out of round piece. I then supported the 90° end up tight so I would get a straight up and down hole and not damage the inside of the jig with a through hole.
I then, using the cut line and a centerline of a tube I drilled a small pilot hole through w/o a problem. I then put the hole saw at the pilot hole and started to drill but with the centering drill bit of the hole saw being a bit larger in dia. the flutes in the hole saw walked off center. (one of the things I learned here was to buff/sand down the arc of the tubes to make the to be joined parts to be flat to each other so the flutes of the larger drill bit would not hang up on one or the other [or both] parts of the tubes to be joined) Part of that was the curvature of the tube and the seam that the flutes jammed into. I then removed the drill bit, realigned the hole saw to the marks I had made then started to drill the hole. Since this was a new 1" hole saw I thought the teeth would be nice to me but, being inanimate objects, they showed their distain to be and tried to walk and moved the drill platen around. Once I got deep enough I was able to finish cutting the hole with little to no more problems. Again, I designed stuff according to rules and specification but I did not make the parts so the two had to be worked out by specialists on both ends of the parts.
I am going to have to make the center piece about a half an inch to an inch longer it is looking like.
Anyway, for what it is worth.
Lee
I drilled out the hole for the upright to sit in but I learned a few lessons while doing it. I had cut the tube at 45° then cut the tube from the other end the same so that when I cut each 45° to length I had 2 sets of mounts: that was OK!
I then welded the two tubes together to form the 90° angle but when I did it I used the strong magnet to form the angle. One thing that turned out was that the top of the seam was tight but, when you rolled it over there was the gap you see here. Since when you are welding you need the gap I didn't worry about it until...
When I welded the two pieces together I knew that I would removing a lot of the weld so I welded about halfway across and made sure I had a good radius in the inside corner for strength.
When I jigged the the welded up assy in the welding clamp I had to have one of the ends not in the drilling jig so I added a tube in the clamped end so as that the drilling jig did not clamp the tube into an out of round piece. I then supported the 90° end up tight so I would get a straight up and down hole and not damage the inside of the jig with a through hole.
I then, using the cut line and a centerline of a tube I drilled a small pilot hole through w/o a problem. I then put the hole saw at the pilot hole and started to drill but with the centering drill bit of the hole saw being a bit larger in dia. the flutes in the hole saw walked off center. (one of the things I learned here was to buff/sand down the arc of the tubes to make the to be joined parts to be flat to each other so the flutes of the larger drill bit would not hang up on one or the other [or both] parts of the tubes to be joined) Part of that was the curvature of the tube and the seam that the flutes jammed into. I then removed the drill bit, realigned the hole saw to the marks I had made then started to drill the hole. Since this was a new 1" hole saw I thought the teeth would be nice to me but, being inanimate objects, they showed their distain to be and tried to walk and moved the drill platen around. Once I got deep enough I was able to finish cutting the hole with little to no more problems. Again, I designed stuff according to rules and specification but I did not make the parts so the two had to be worked out by specialists on both ends of the parts.
I am going to have to make the center piece about a half an inch to an inch longer it is looking like.
Anyway, for what it is worth.
Lee
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Leatherneck
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
DDDDDAAAAMMMMMMNNNN that is some precise cutting and joining.
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Leatherneck wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 4:51 pm DDDDDAAAAMMMMMMNNNN that is some precise cutting and joining.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Since we are expecting some storm fronts coming in this weekend; rain with the potential of thunder and lightening I got the lawn mowed then, pooped out I sat down and got thinking about the front cross piece's problems with the front to back tube having to have bend it in and to how I would be able to make it work.
Since there SOS on TV I finally got into the garage and cut the two front corner pieces then a while ago I went out and took the photo of the partially deburred parts and got thinking about the problem when, all of a sudden, I had an epiphany (no, I am not talking dirty
)!
I grabbed some short pieces of the two sizes of stock I am playing with and came up with this. You can barely see the inner tube that is the pivot; it is pretty snug inside of the outer tube and I added a short piece of scrap and 90° to it was the input tube for the tube to the rear hoop. I will use the thumb jam screws to lock the end tube in place and at the angle I want.
It was so easy it was easy of a solution that it was hard to think about I guess. I think I have enough 1" dia. tube left to make a try at it so tomorrow I am planning on making 2 pair of these short connections, one for each side then comes the how to locate then bend the tube that goes into it from the rear so I can get in and out of the buggy.
Lee
Since there SOS on TV I finally got into the garage and cut the two front corner pieces then a while ago I went out and took the photo of the partially deburred parts and got thinking about the problem when, all of a sudden, I had an epiphany (no, I am not talking dirty
)!I grabbed some short pieces of the two sizes of stock I am playing with and came up with this. You can barely see the inner tube that is the pivot; it is pretty snug inside of the outer tube and I added a short piece of scrap and 90° to it was the input tube for the tube to the rear hoop. I will use the thumb jam screws to lock the end tube in place and at the angle I want.
It was so easy it was easy of a solution that it was hard to think about I guess. I think I have enough 1" dia. tube left to make a try at it so tomorrow I am planning on making 2 pair of these short connections, one for each side then comes the how to locate then bend the tube that goes into it from the rear so I can get in and out of the buggy.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Leather, I owe you an apology as your response kind of embarrassed me.Leatherneck wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 4:51 pm DDDDDAAAAMMMMMMNNNN that is some precise cutting and joining.
What I did was simple once you see it done. I took pix and later today (there is a thunder and lightening storm that is just about overhead so I am shutting down. Kind of hard to tell by the sound at times as to whether it is a cargo jet landing at the Boeing plant or the rolling thunder. I will do a thread in the "tools section" on how I did it later today.
Lee
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Leatherneck
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Lee, you owe me no apology. It’s all good, especially your fab work.
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
This is where I am as of today. The rear upper spreader bar is a bit too long but it does keep the uprights against the body and upright. Still more stuff to do before I get to the 2 or 3 bars going from the front to the rear which is one of the reasons for the expensive mockup... access to the seats for us'n old guys.
Lee
Lee
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ninelives17
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Can you post a picture from the side?
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Ol'fogasaurus
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Re: Ol'fogasaurus black buggy
Even though this is a 3 car garage things are very tight in here so this is about the best I can do. Once the cage is better roughed in, and it isn't raining I will be able to take some better pictures.
The best I can do on the driver's side of the buggy. The front bar will be moved forward and a hole will be cut in the cowl for it's location. I am trying to get the cage removable which, after seeing something earlier today makes me think it might be possible. Again, there has to be a lower spreader bar for the steering to attach to which I have not spent any time digging into yet.
You can see here that the top spreader bar has not been shorted to fit the area. I am doing this to keep the uprights against the upper flange of the body so things don't fall over. There will be a kind of a horse shoe shaped bar for the shoulder straps to attach to. Once the body is back off I can then see the relationship between the spreader bar for the Truss/Kaffer bar connection to the cage (a must have).
A 3/4 rear view of the buggy.
Does this help you?
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