Jbuggy’s Madmax buggy

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I heard Weber's are notorious for getting the idle jets plugged. I would try to clean those out first.

I agree here but also check the fuel pump and lines... specially if there are soft lines involved; the same with the steel braided lines if you have them. The soft lines can bend and kink or start to swell with age and not give the pressure or volume needed. Also check the fuel filter.

Sounds unlikely but I have had the problem a few times over the years... got the same advice and Waa-la (one of many spellings for the French word).

Lee

[Jbuggy21]

I keep going back to thinking idle circuit but I had it professionally cleaned. I even took jets out to check. But doesn’t mean it’s not the problem. Sure seems like it.

Pumps are new. I’ve tried electric and mechanical. I have them piggybacked now. The float level I have checked and adjusted five times seems good. It does seem very rich when it runs but I figure that because I’m having to pump it over And over to get it to run.

[chuckput]

Weber's don't like a lot of fuel pressure. We're taking 3 - 3.5 psi. I run an online fuel pressure gauge and a regulator. If you are running the two pumps in tandem it is a possibility that you are producing too much pressure. Now is this causing your issues? I don't know.

[Leatherneck]

Yup, pull the jets, pay attention to rotation count coming out. Pull the top, check the bowl and needle valve

[Jbuggy21]

Got it running. Carb was a million miles off on jetting and float level.
Runs great and doesn’t leak, minor seeping around heads but nothing major. The power steering works amazingly. Was very surprised.
So dig deep guys and tell me what this thing started out life as.
I know it’s a Chenowth tag.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

D49BE0C2-AF36-4137-B646-D7C0055FB8DF copy.jpg

The serial number shown is 1101 and the model number is VCRL1AL. I did several searches using this info and several other types of possibilities with the best of which said it could be anything from a farm tractor unit, VW unit, Mopar, GM unit or when using the Chenowith search I got the light strike vehicle and there I get several other possibilities but not to parts details. I did find some companies that might be in the mix but did not have the same P/N. I wish I could help more but I will keep thinking about it.

Model or part numbers are usually registered at least here in the states but that is probably not true everywhere even here in the states. I did several types of searches based on this but found nothing that at least had to do with power steering.

Getting in touch with them directly might be the best idea and I am sure they would be happy to hear from a new owner of their toy.

Lee

[Jbuggy21]

That was really helpful i appreciate it. I know the chassis is heavily modified but would be interesting to know what it was born as.

[Leatherneck]

There were several military variants of the light strike vehicles. Unless you could track previous owners would be hard to figure out exactly what. Some were driven by personnel others were remote control. Either way you have a cool ride with lots of potential.

[baja5]

Looking at your pics there are small protruding tubes on the rear near the shocks, are there others near the front of the car as well. My Chenowth light strike has those on both sides that are used to mount the side baskets. Also, they liked to make their own shifter mechanism using 2 small heim joints, if you can post up a pic of the shifter. Like Leather said, there were many versions of the car, your cage look different than anyone that I have seen but it may have been modified over time.

[Jbuggy21]

My wife had my slaving on the house so now I’m back.
Yes there are tubes on the side that have removable bolt holes. Looks like side storage or nerf bars at one time. This car has seen some stuff and lots of “genius” fabwork.
I will take a picture of the tubes.
The linkage for shifter is just a modified rod off a jamar shifter.
I did get the car running good. The carb was the issue and the previous owner I think throw this one on when I bought it because the jetting and Venturi setup would have never idled. But it rips now. Don’t know the size of the motor but it hits too hard to be a 1600.
I’m currently rewiring much of the car since there were no fuses In the car. Added a main fuse and a fuse block under dash. New keyed disconnect and probably will replace all switches.
Did the basic tune up stuff with new ignition parts. With all the aftermarket oil filter and cooler is holds almost 5 quarts of oil.
Adjusted valves which were also helpful in getting it idling well.
The breather catch was broken so that had to be replaced. Along with umf can mount. Once wirings done the gas tank can go back in along with linkage and seats. Might try to drive it after that and find out if the cvs are ok and if I’m going to do a coilover conversion on rear.
What do you guys think about rear shocks set up?? Rebuild shocks and leave torsions, or coilover conversion?
I’ll take some pictures and post them shortly.

[baja5]

I’d run it as is right now and see how you like it. 4 shocks may be a bit overkill but if it has large torsions they may be needed to control the rebound. Easy enough to pull 1 at a time if it’s really stiff. I’m keeping the torsions on our car and plan to run 2 shocks per side rather than 3.

[Leatherneck]

I’d run it as is right now and see how you like it. 4 shocks may be a bit overkill but if it has large torsions they may be needed to control the rebound. Easy enough to pull 1 at a time if it’s really stiff. I’m keeping the torsions on our car and plan to run 2 shocks per side rather than 3.

For sure, get some fun out of it, see if it needs it then spend money on it.

[dustymojave]

I agree with baja5. Try it. See if you like it as it is. If setting up the car with torsions, I would be inclined to install 1 2.5" reservoir and 1 2" reservoir or 1 3". The 4 shock setup looks like someone is stuck in 1980 style with shocks from 2000 or later. But it just may work that way. I have a Chenowth C2RL1W (100" 2 seat originally for a Corvair engine, but with a VW now) with a 1914 with an EMPI 44HPMX and 3x3s on the back with a single Fox 2" body coilover on it. It works surprisingly well as it is. If those shocks are tuned right for the car, it could very well work just fine as it is. If you have shock failure and want to reduce the number of shocks to rebuild at a time, you could revalve some of them and reduce the number installed and get same or better damping.

[dustymojave]

Oh... And BTW, the model of the frame is
"VCRL1W"
The 1st 'V' is VW engine.
The 'W' on the end is Welded at the factory. As opposed to a partly welded kit frame. I forget what the 'CRL' in the middle translates to. This model number and the serial number are NOT intended to be government legal VIN. This is an offroad buggy. Not intended to be a street registered car. Although in some places it can be. Bu tt6hen generally the VIN is applied by the government agency with responsibility for that. In California, IF you were to get it registered for the street a combination of DMV and CHP for a VIN.

[Jbuggy21]

Not done with wiring but got the fuse block and disconnect in. Car had no fuses on anything so hopefully this cuts down on fires.
Car still runs after ripping old stuff out which is comforting.
I have to fix the janky seat mounts next then hopefully get seats and tank back in, shifter and new throttle cable connected. If all that goes smooth, which is wishful thinking, I might try to drive it.

Here’s a picture also of the side where the tabs and short tubes are discussed above.