1776 Microsquirt Street Turbo Build

[woodsbuggy1]

Thanks Mike, it is a fresh rebuild with Crown super diff.
I have been working on my fuel lines(braided nylon) and oil lines(braided stainless) and have learned several things;
1 The Koul tools installation tool is worth the $.
2 A cutoff wheel works great.
3 Green painters tape wrapped sticky side out works much better than electrical tape, it doesnt melt into the hose and stops fraying.
4 Engine oil works the best for lubing the fittings for installation, I tried silcone spray, WD40 and dry lube, will only use engine oil, makes a big difference.
Hopefully my mistakes will help someone else.
Kenric

[Schweg]

Thanks Mike, it is a fresh rebuild with Crown super diff.
I have been working on my fuel lines(braided nylon) and oil lines(braided stainless) and have learned several things;
1 The Koul tools installation tool is worth the $.
2 A cutoff wheel works great.
3 Green painters tape wrapped sticky side out works much better than electrical tape, it doesnt melt into the hose and stops fraying.
4 Engine oil works the best for lubing the fittings for installation, I tried silcone spray, WD40 and dry lube, will only use engine oil, makes a big difference.
Hopefully my mistakes will help someone else.
Kenric

Those lessons I’m sure will pay dividends for someone!


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[buguy]

That work is definitely no fun. I had 50,000 little holes in my fingers when i did my braided stainless hose.

[rubenski]

I feel your pain. That moment when that one tiny loose wire gets under your fingernail. I died a little then.

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[woodsbuggy1]

So far I have installed 12 hose ends on braided hose with 0 blood or fingure punctures. I still have a few more to do but waiting on fittings. If you are making braided hoses by the Koul Tools installation tool about $30 for each size but they have kits with several sizes too. The last time I used braided hose was 15 years ago when working on my Harley oil lines, I swore that I would never use it again, but here we are and I will use it in the future with the proper tools
Kenric

[buguy]

I used the black stuff like you for my oil lines. Way better to work with than the braided stainless.

[petew]

I just finishing using that for my HP fuel line from the pump. I won't use the fittings on principle. $$$$$$$ and no great benefit for me. Hoseclamps all the way. Although, I have to admit, removing that hose from a barb fitting is no fun. :/

[buguy]

It hurt using the fittings $$$$. But i will say that's about the only thing i did on my build that hasn't given me any trouble!

[Ol'fogasaurus]

AN OPINION: If that is metal braided tube, as I have said before, I don't recommend using metal braided hose on cars... not what they were designed for. There are several reasons other than being too stiff and large radiuses needed. Also, for example, you can't check very well to see if the inside of the tube to see if it had swollen (usually age here) by squeezing them as someone steps on the brake pedal so you can feel the flow.

For a show car it is one thing... maybe, but for other types of use I still don't recommend using them.

Again, my opinion so consider it is for what it is worth!

Lee

[madmike]

I have Buddy that works for "lola" in Indy and he gives me deals on Braided Lines, He said they switch them out On the Indy cars all the time and they won't/don't like to re-use them I grab all I can when I see him once a year anything from -4 An to -12 An ,,I've only had one fail I all the years I've used them ,, have them on my Bus too,, can't beat the feel of SS Braided Brake lines, no sponginess

[woodsbuggy1]

Wow, it has been way to long but I am finally working on this again. I decided to do a refresh and a few changes to the motor, my old heads only had 41cc chambers so my DH was .150 and I think that was a contributing factor to my lack of power at lower RPM even with a W100 cam. Today I received a set of AA500 heads with 55cc chambers and 40x35 valves so I will be able to run .040 DH, will also be changing to a FK7 cam and ratio rockers. My crank and rods look great, just needed a quick polish on crank with 600grit and rods will get new Subaru nuts( about 4 grams less per rod) I could have probably reused the bearings but they do show a lil wear. Will try to get some pics up tomorrow. I will need to spend some time on the heads cleaning up the casting flash and very mild porting and gasket matching to intakes. Plan to have it back on the road by May 1st.
Kenric

[Chip Birks]

Were you able to get some miles on it then? Sounds like it should be better setup this time around.

[madmike]

FK 7 and 1:4's 40x35 heads ,,,will wake it up

[buguy]

Definitely should come alive now!

[woodsbuggy1]

Chip, I ran the motor for 5 years in offroad buggy with a tiny turbo so it was at 9lbs boost by 3500RPM in 1st gear, the new cam, heads and Subie turbo will hopefully be a good change for street buggy. Made a lil progress cleaning up heads today. I am waiting on flywheel to be resurfaced and need to order a new pressure plate and clutch disk. The Kennedy Stage 1 and 4 puck was toast, I am debating between Stage 1 or Stage 2 with 6 puck disk, any input appreciated.
Kenric