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This is about as close as I could get cropping the pix. It is similar to what I was looking at doing myself but just not as long of a lower mount tube.
I have the body lift I can attach the hoop to but that would be in shear when rolling over or especially doing an end over, so I wanted to attach it to the floor also but since the floor is thin walled (I replaced the rotted floor with new pan halves, but they were too light of weight material, so I found some thicker material pan halves to replace the thinner ones. The pass side pan half is great, but the driver's side isn't as the forming at this same place this pix of is flawed.
The tube, if it is welded tube is dependent on where the seam is. It the seam is on the short side of the tube then no. If it is on the bottom side of the rectangular tube, is it probably OK but if it is on the upper side, then probably not.
I also see some things I hadn't gotten that far of that is a good idea to keep the tube from folding like the end caps would help do.
The reason I couldn't mount the cage to the top of the body lift is that the body itself is stiffening flanged facing inboard rather than like yours where the body's upper flange turns outboard.
I would cap the ends for several reasons mostly for additional strength especially because the tube is kind of long and some flexing of the tube where the cage bar is connecting could distort.
I also am not sure about the lower bend in the hoop being there especially where it is placed. I understand why they are doing it but bends are/can be weak which is why I mention it. Looking at options it is probably what they are going to have to live with. It also depends on just how the buggy is going to be used also.
This build I will be watching for information.
Thanks!
Lee.
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