Lazy cylinder

[clintonddk]

Hi everyone, it's been awhile since I have posted here. I have ran into a couple of problems with my ms2 set up. I am running it on a 2332cc boosted type 1. I'll start with one problem before I move on.
Cylinder number two seem to miss fire at idle. The header is only about half the temp of the other three. I noticed that the plug seemed to appear wet. I did a compression check on all cylinders and they are fairly equal.
I changed out the injectors and the plug thinking I may have a bad injector but that didn't change anything so I moved the coil to number 4 and put #4 coil on #2. I am running four LS coils and changed the plug. I was hoping that the problem would move two number 4 but it didn't.
I then verified that #2 was firing by using tuner studio to trigger the coil and it did.
I then checked the gasket on the intake manifold and it looked good then snugged the intake boot.
I am at a lost at what to check next except spark plug gap. I am running them at .022". Or maybe set some more dwell. At this time I don't remember what that is set at.
The car ran well most of the summer until just recently

Thanks for any and all help.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Do a capacitance check of the bad cylinder's plug wire; I'd do all of them just-in-case. A quick and easy check just to be sure everything is OK.

Our group has had two bad plug or coil wires this year, it is the easy things that drive one crazy.

Lee

[clintonddk]

I'll check that, I didn't switch around the wires but they are also brand spakin new, not that that means anything.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I'll check that, I didn't switch around the wires but they are also brand spakin new, not that that means anything.

You wouldn't think so but it happens but not often. Check the connectors to spark plug and the dist. also. The hard thing is to catch the obvious isn't it .

Lee

[clintonddk]

Ok Lee,
I finally got a chance to measure some wires. Now please help me to understand what numbers I should see. The ignition wires I removed read 1200 and the ones I installed read 435.
What I seen on the web had said that OEM like to see 12000 ohm.
Sorry for the novice question
Clinton

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Ok Lee,
I finally got a chance to measure some wires. Now please help me to understand what numbers I should see. The ignition wires I removed read 1200 and the ones I installed read 435.
What I seen on the web had said that OEM like to see 12000 ohm.
Sorry for the novice question
Clinton

Sorry, I usually don't go to that extremes in checking spark plug wires ohms' wise.

I set the dial of the Volt OHM meter for checking capacitance then put one probe on one end of the wire and the other probe on the other end. If the reading needle moves lightening fast to the other end then the wire is not failing and should be good. That is not high tech way of doing it but it gives one a start anyway. It has worked a couple of times now to find problems.

I would suspect that the higher reading is where you want to be ohms' wise anyway.

My electric training was in the mid-1950s in my sophomore year in high school and with my father who was an electrical engineer. Kind of out dated I guess .

Whenever I do any wiring on a car I do check the capacitance of each wire once it is installed (for both the matching power wire and ground wire as they should be the same size. There are charts for this on-line; for example: https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437); a good habit I learned a long time ago as I have had wires check good when in the roll (new) but when installed either the wire then tested bad or the connection was the problem or caused the problem (I am always guiltless [snicker]).

Lee

[Ol'fogasaurus]

clintonddk, have you found out anything yet?

I did a quick search and got interesting answers. High ohms were there but then there was a limit to that also. This is a search for OHMs of VW spark plug wires: https://www.bing.com/search?q=OHM+readi ... 68c2b63acf Got lotsa opinions here, some might help.

I think you said 12000 OHMs is what you were told and according to what is here that does sound correct. The low number doesn't sound good though.

Lee

[clintonddk]

Good morning Lee, I wanted to check some mechanical things so I pulled the valve cover on that side of the engine to see if the valves were moving correctly and they are. So, while I was down there I decided to double check the lash (I had just did a lash adjustment) and the intake valve lash was tight. I readjusted the lash and put the cover back and then ran the engine. Now the header temp seems to match cylinder 4.
Thanks for the help.
Clinton

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Clinton, glad to hear it turned out to be an easy fix. Both electrical and keeping ahead of the valve lash are both a pain in the poo-poo; it seems to be always too loose or too tight. Hopefully too tight didn't cause future problems.

Lee