ball joints

bigapl · Post by **bigapl** » Mon Apr 02, 2001 9:29 pm

how hard are the upper ones to do and are there special tools besides a press?
also thanx for the help gonna replace tie rod ends next week inners are shot bearings are good though
thanx

aussiebug · Post by **aussiebug** » Mon Apr 02, 2001 11:28 pm

The ball joints on VWs are super tight tapers.

Some of the ball removal tools you can buy over the counter won't work - those joints are TIGHT.

You MIGHT be able to remove them with a pickle fork (like a wedge with a gap in the middle for the shaft and a long handle so you can drive it between the ball and the housing with a big hammer.

But if you do manage toi get them off the rubber seals will be ruined - that's OK if you intend replacing the joints I guess.

Even though I do most jobs on beetles myself, this is one I leave to the shops with equipment.
regards,

------------------
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repair and Maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/index.html

vwnate1 · Post by **vwnate1** » Tue Apr 03, 2001 2:19 pm

the tie rod ends are taper fit and can easily be popped loose by removing the cotter pin and nut , re-install the nut reversed and run it most of the way on , hold a hammer on one side of the knuckle and give a sharp hard rap opposite with a 32oz. or larger hammer - works like a charm , don't be fraid to really whack it .

Upper balljoint ? on Super ? huh ?

------------------
-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VWshop)

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Wed Apr 04, 2001 12:26 am

Since I am rebuilding my front end as we speak maybe I can help. The tie rod ends come apart rather easily with a pickle fork. The ball joints are a different story. They require a 30 ton press and maybe heat to remove. I wasn't happy about using heat, but my local guru said they are really tough to get out. It also takes a special tool to reinstall the ball joints, so it is probably best to take them to a pro. My needle bearing and bushing in the beam are shot on the left side. The arm wiggles up and downwith no load. If there are bearings and bushing available I can't find them, all that is available is urethane bushings. So that is what I am going with. Getting the old bearings and bushings out is also quite a trick. (Note it seems on a ball joint ft end the upper bearings and bushings are a straight shot, but on the bottom the bearing and bushings are are stepped.) With every thing on the beam it is very heavy. With out the spindles it is more manageable. While you have all this off go ahead and check for rust on the frame head and correct the problem. Hope it helps.

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Thu Apr 12, 2001 12:41 am

Just finished replacing the ball joints. I got to help my Vw guru. We had about forty different chunks of metal and a 20 ton press. There is not much of a lip to press against on the arms. Once we got every thing aligned. spaced, and c-clamped They popped right out. It is one of those deals where if every thing is right it is easy. We didn't have to use heat. I am always leary of using heat to free up something as they sometimes warp. The reassembly required different spacers and such. There are alignment marks to make sure the slot in the ball joint is proper. Read your manual!
As my needle bearings and bushing are shot in my beam I will also be replacing them. They look like a real bugabear.

Steve C · Post by **Steve C** » Fri Apr 13, 2001 7:19 am

Hi
A common mistake I have seen is the balljoints being fitted out of index (not sure if that is the correct term to use) What Im trying to say is that the balljoints have 2 slots milled into the ends, these must line up with the marks on the trailing arms. The balljoints only move in a fore and aft motion so the correct indexing is really important.
Regards Steve C

Glenn · Post by **Glenn** » Fri Apr 13, 2001 10:04 pm

You need a special tool to remove the ball joints. I just purchased such a tool (used for $40) that is made by OTC. They are still in business, but no longer sell the VW ball joint tool. You could use a press, but it could damage the new ball joint or the trailing arm. Find someone with the correct tool.

[This message has been edited by Glenn (edited 04-13-2001).]

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Wed Apr 25, 2001 10:02 am

Futher along with the rebuilding of my front end. I forgot to mention that we removed the rubber dust shields to install the new joints. There is plenty of bearing surface to press against and it is easy too see if the slot is aligned with the motion of the arm.
The beam bearings and bushings are a different story. My beam 1974 has roller bearings on the outsides top and bottom and what looks like bronze bushings on the inside, top and bottom. The two bottom roller bearings came out easily with a slide hammer using a large flat washer on the end. The washer was just smaller than the hole in the bearing. The upper bearings I had to snap the side of the race with a cold chisel carefully so as not to scar the tube then I pried out the cage and bearings, this loosened up the race so it would come out. Not the way I would have liked to do it. The tubes were stuffed with grease so rust wasn't a problem.
And now for the big headache. I can't get the bushings way inside to move. I am not real sure what they are made of although they look like bronze. These are my options, buy a rebuilt beam, drive the old bushings futher into the beam and possibly bind up the torsion bars, or as my machinist suggested make a contoured to the tube chisel to cut the bushing loose. < )
If anyone has any suggestion on what will work please tell me. This is the only thing keeping me from getting back on the road.
Many thanks.