Type 4 cooler on T1 motor

[renotype2]

I'm in the process of installing a turbo on 70 bus and was wondering if anyone has ever installed T4 cooler on a T1 engine ? It's about a inch wider and bolts on motor but will it hit the back wall that protects the gas tank? I know it is would require fan shroud mods. Any comments?

[Steve Arndt]

It has been done over 10,000 times. Search here and samba. It isn't a good mod.
s

[Piledriver]

You can do worse things to an engine, but its marginal and probably a waste of time/effort.

The same cooling air will flow for either, the T4 cooler is little>no more efficient, so...
Probably no gain other than you can say you did it.

Spend the time/effort making sure the engines/engine compartments air seals are perfect.

Keep the stock doghouse cooler, and use a FULL FLOW external plate type cooler/filter off the pump with an oil thermostat/bypass and fan at the external cooler if you need to "upgrade".

90% of the time, high oil temps are NOT due to the oil cooler being too small, it's frequently due to the oil pump being too large or running too thick of an oil, the temps will rise until the pressure drops low enough for the stock cooler to see flow. (The factory "oil thermostat" is pressure based)

If you have >~45 PSI at cruise RPM hot, you probably have ~zero oil flow through the factory oil cooler, assuming everything is stock.

TIP: A $5 pressure gauge from Home Depot is ~guaranteed to be far more accurate than anything from VDO. Keep it in a ziplock bag in your toolbox, if you leave it on the engine it will shake to bits eventually. The idiot light is sufficient.

As you are going turbo on a Bay Bus I'd go ahead and order that Mesa 96 plate cooler/fan and oil tstat/fan tstat/external filter combo now.
IIRC CB sells a nice kit with everything.

[WestyPop]

OP has a 1970 bus, but didn't state whether it had been converted to 1971 'doghouse' cooler & tin. It goes without saying that the doghouse setup would be a first step in better cooling, since it has a wider fan as well. Ditto on the recommendation for a good auxiliary cooler when going to a turbo-motor.

J.R.
SoCal

[Jadewombat]

I did the T4 cooler on my super-1600 and it made was significant in the temperature drop.

http://www.geneberg.com/product_info.ph ... ts_id=1258

I haven't had or seen good experience with external coolers unless it's on a race car (constantly moving vehicle). Simply having more exposure doesn't translate to better heat transfer, you need air movement to carry that heat away and a pressure drop across that cooler to a lesser extent depending upon where you mount it in the car. My over-simplistic analogy, which will make you cooler--on a moderately warm day if you stand in front of a fan a few inches away from it, or if you take your shirt off and flap your arms and legs around and run around in a circle as fast as you can? Remember, it takes energy from the engine to push this oil through more line/external cooler/electric fan/etc. which also makes the engine work harder.

[axam]

the type 4 cooler can help in assisting keeping the temps down. regardless of the cost factor any additional coolers will help. the comments above are very valid. if the oil goes thru the cooler too fast you will never cool the oil. where is that balance of oil pump size, oil line size, type of cooler and type/weight of oil? have yet to hear anyone come up with a base line or testing results that could be used as a guideline. so from experience the remote cooler helps when used properly. location is important 9don't ever let someone tell you to mount a external cooler above the trans. air flow is important either with or without a fan running. if your running a full flow system use no smaller than a #8 hose. if this a dry sump system run a #10 or #12 on the scavenger side going to the filter and cooler. oil type gives various results. 20-50 has been the norm for years. takes longer to get up to high temps but also takes longer time to cool. I found the 10-30, 10-40 works better in the cooler climates and straight 30 and 40 weight offering good disaplation of heat when cooling. running the straight weights depends on your clearances.
Am I right on all this, can't say yes or no, but this is thru experience.
one factor i cannot and have yet read any info on is the volume/pressure regarding a stock design pump. with a dry sump set up the larger scavenger hose dia allows the oil to slow down thru the cooler to dissaplate the heat.
one last thing. installing a engine with a type 4 cooler in a bug is tight. sometimes it's easier to install the motor without the cooler and install it in the car.
the main purpose is to keep the oil temps down. any addition in cooling the will help when it's done right!