'71 VW Bug truck w/Subi WRX eng/trans...Buga-Truckaru?

[ambrynmc]

Too funny...so the tumbler is a $50 piece off Ebay that is actually a decent unit. I looked at a lot of them and several of them are really small and basically seemed overpriced due to the jewelry making websites that carry most of them. It holds 5 lbs of media and actually had a brand name on it.

Then I looked for tumbler media for it and was going to order the "green triangle" media online but I found it at Harbor Freight. Not sure if it is actually the same, but I figured what the heck! I did pick up some rogue coated walnut shells at Cabela's to polish with, but I haven't used any yet...another hour in there with the green thingys and I'll try the walnut shells and see what that does.

[ambrynmc]

Hey all, I have a good story for you guys. The shop manual for the transmission calls for using Three Bond 1215 to seal the trans case. Now I know that if you do a search you will find a lot of people that claim that Hondabond 4 and Permatex Ultra Grey are "the same" as Three Bond 1215. Now I cannot claim to know if Permatex Ultra Grey is or isn't an "as equal" product or not. I can comment that probably the most important specification of viscosity is not given out by Permatex so you can't compare them easily. Permatex does say it is an "as equal" to several OEM sealants, but NONE of them are TB 1215.

I called Three Bond to find out where to get one tube of it and they told me to buy Subaru 004403007 also called "Fujibond" grey. I did confirm with Three Bond that Hondabond 4 is NOT an equal to 1215, but it is equal to 1194 (different sealant). I also found another product that IS equal to 1215, Yamabond 4 (info is right on the Yamaha website!). Yamabond 4 is readily available at Yamaha dealers, comes in smaller tubes and costs $10. The Subaru tube is larger, but costs close to $40. Ducati also sells a tube of "1215TB" that you can probably assume is the same stuff. Kawasaki also sells "1215B" that I figured was the same, but the person at Three Bond said no. As a reference, Three Bond will not say "on the record" what the equals are...pretty silly if you ask me.

Anyway, to make a short story long, I wouldn't have even wasted a second of time if you asked me about using Permatex Ultra Grey on the engine oil pan (it's spec for that too), However, I do NOT want to risk being wrong on the transmission case. So I'm going to buy a tube or two of Yamabond 4, since I don't need a big tube from Subaru (darn stuff has a one year shelf life, so use it or lose it...). But i figured while I'm at it I already bought a tube of the Permatex Ultra Grey and I will compare them...

I'll let you know what I see.

[56SemaRag]

3M and Permatex are both equivalents according to SOA. Others have used different sealants because they have properties that appeal to them more than OEM. I like using Hylomar because it's used in aircraft which have higher demands than your average car. What's the best sealant?, the one the you use that meets or exceeds your expectations.

Subaru manual

[ambrynmc]

See, that's funny. I found that same chart and I still have a little issue with it...I don't know where it came from! I've searched all the Service Manuals and can't find it. It is in a different font than the Service Manuals. And to top it off, the chart says you can use Ultra Grey instead of 1215, 1207C, and 1217B sealants (seems a little broad spectrum to me). I would also think that Permatex would put in on their packaging if it was "as equal", but they don't.



Just makes you wonder.

I'm not saying that it isn't true, I just feel like I need to "see for myself". I'm going to buy both, squirt out some of each and compare them myself. Maybe I'll see a difference....maybe I won't!

[GS guy]

I bought the $40 tube of Subaru sealer when I went to replace my oil pan and reinstall the valve covers. What I noted about it was very low viscosity. It tended to flow out and self-level or run if left sitting too long. I presume that was so it would compress down really well for the camshaft bearing caps (under the valve cover) which needed a little bit of sealant during reinstallation. However, when it set up the durometer was pretty high and very tough (unlike a typical silicone sealer).
Now my barely used tube is about 3 years old and I need to re-do the valve covers - they've been seeping a little oil and I opted to not change the gaskets when I had the motor apart changing the timing belt, etc. Bad choice! This JDM engine has yet to be run and the last thing I want is to have to pull the engine for leaks when I finally get it together! I need a little bit of sealant around the cam covers and not sure I truse the old tube of sealant? I think I may get some ultry-grey this time. Getting it sealed up and updating a few minor things is one of my wintertime projects.

[56SemaRag]

I bought the $40 tube of Subaru sealer when I went to replace my oil pan and reinstall the valve covers. What I noted about it was very low viscosity. It tended to flow out and self-level or run if left sitting too long.

This very reason is why folks tend not to stay strictly with a specific sealant. I too found it runny. Once I started using Hylomar, Curil, Hondabond or Permatex I found those hit all the wickets I needed.

[ambrynmc]

I talked to Permatex and the reason they don't list a viscosity is because Ultra Grey is in a gel state. After i asked him about an equal to Three Bond 1215 (I told him the it has a viscosity of 20 Pa-s) he thought their Motoseal 1 would be an equal. Motoseal 1 is a solvent based synthetic rubber sealant, not really what I was looking for. I'm just going to go to the local Yamaha dealer and get some Yamabond 4. At least I know that it is the same thing as TB1215 http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outdoor/app ... etail.aspx

I bought the $40 tube of Subaru sealer when I went to replace my oil pan and reinstall the valve covers. What I noted about it was very low viscosity. It tended to flow out and self-level or run if left sitting too long.

This very reason is why folks tend not to stay strictly with a specific sealant. I too found it runny. Once I started using Hylomar, Curil, Hondabond or Permatex I found those hit all the wickets I needed.

Very true! I have no problem using the Ultra Grey on the oil pan or somewhere else that is not a precision mated surface holding bearing races,etc. But for the transmission, I'm going to use the Yamabond 4 (Three Bond 1215). This application needs that thin, low viscosity. I just don't feel like experimenting.

I can see that there are some Hylomar products that would be a lot closer match to 1215.

[ambrynmc]

Just for reference the 1207, 1215, and 1217 range from 20 Pa-S to 300 Pa-S in viscosity. That's like thick chocolate syrup to thick peanut butter.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity

That's a pretty wide range!

[ambrynmc]

Picked up two 3 oz tubes of Yamabond 4 at the dealer $11 each. Permatex Ultra Grey is $7 for a 3.5 oz tube (for comparison).



I'm good to go for putting the trans together (sealer wise). Also sending the ring/pinion to Weddle to get REM super-finished tomorrow. I'm also going to get the center housing welded up.

I have a few days off at the end of the month and I want to get this put together. Hopefully, I won't need any shims...but I won't hold my breath.

[ambrynmc]

Just for fun, I looked at all the Fram fuel filters to see what might be good choices from a size, connection, and price perspective. I picked filters that are mostly threaded but not banjo fitted.

No offense to anyone, but I'm having a hard time buying a $100 billet filter for no appearant advantage? I picked the G3727 due to availability, size, and price.

Anyway here's the list, hope it help someone!

[sideshow]

Do you have the fuel line/barbs to make that work? The filter you high lighted has M16 theads (not inlet size), the number you cite also appears to be a female thread of some sort.

[ambrynmc]

Do you have the fuel line/barbs to make that work? The filter you high lighted has M16 theads (not inlet size), the number you cite also appears to be a female thread of some sort.

Both ends are female metric 16mm threaded ends. I'm going to use a metric thread to -AN fitting on both ends of the filter.

Like these



Did that answer your question?

[sideshow]

If you can get that working, I'll follow your lead. You do know for certain that a GM filter will seal to an ORB/tapered/or flared fitting that the local hydraulic store stocks? GM isn't known for using "rest of the world" standards.

I do agree that fuel filters with dash fittings are crazy expensive, and the only advantage to the bling is that they come apart easy for junk inspection.

[ambrynmc]

Here is a better example.

http://www.vapmotorsports.com/174-bosch ... tings.html

One of the fittings I'm actually looking to buy has a crush washer. Another one I found has straight threads with a flare, this one might be better since you don't have to deal with washers.

[ambrynmc]

I have another "fun" for everyone...so Saturday morning I get up and my stomach is gurgling and being fussy with me. Couple hours go by and it isn't getting better, it's getting worse and I'm thinking "oh great, food poisoning". Well another hour or so later, and it hurts to bend down and I'm wondering what the heck did I eat that kicked this off, so I laid down for an hour and when I went to get up, I realized that it was tender on the right side of my abdomen....so I get on Google, and search "where is your appendix?"...right side...crap. So I get in the truck and go to the urgent care is see if I'm a nervous nancy or on the mark....4 hours later, urine and blood tests and a CT scan and I'm on my way to the hospital to get my appendix yanked out. Lucky for me, I got to talk to the doc and get him to fix a little umbilical hernia while he's in there (a little "two-for" if you will). So I'm supposed to go in to surgery at 7 pm, well as luck would have it someone else was in worse shape and went in my spot....finally got into surgery at 1 am. Back out at like 3:30 am.....ouch.

So I "checked-out" at like 10 am and have been hobbling around enjoying pain killers and the fact that I just got a little mini-vacation that I can't do anything....I'm not supposed to lift anything heavier than 10 pounds for like two weeks!!!!