The "Bring it Back" 71 Super Vert Thread

[mountainkowboy]

I would have wanted "floating Nut plates" in there.... but that looks pretty darned good. Nice work.

I was going to do that but the factory backing nuts really didn't float and the holes in the top are oversized and you can move the top mount about 1/4"-3/8" in pretty much all directions, up, down, and twist, you just need 2 people to move it.

[SCOTTRODS]

Very good..... I just had visions of Permanent Mountings that weren't adjustable.... That was the point anyway.

Again.... looks Great.

[mountainkowboy]

Again.... looks Great.

Yea..........from 50 feet.........LOL.....thanks. My fab skills...pretty good..........my bodywork skills..........not so good.

[mountainkowboy]

Last night I tried to work out my wiring issues to find out that I have the wrong blinker switch installed.....I guess that's why the horn honks when I try to go to high beam...............lol. There is no horn ring on the switch, other than that, I've pretty much got everything else working as it should and lost all the "do nothing" wires.

[Marc]

Last night I tried to work out my wiring issues to find out that I have the wrong blinker switch installed.....I guess that's why the horn honks when I try to go to high beam...

That may be a premature conclusion - there are only two switches which could physically fit (`68-`70 and `71-only) and although I've never tried putting the "wrong" one in I'm not sure that it would cause that symptom.

On a `71 there should be three brown (or basically brown) wires to the switch. One is the "supply" ground (the other end goes to a ground lug near the speedo). There's one that's brown with white stripes which goes to the headlamp hi/lo beam relay, and the third one goes down to the horn - it should also be a brown wire with a stripe per DIN convention but it may be another solid brown.

[mountainkowboy]

The switch that's in there is a European one (front and rear directional wires) 1 brown ground and 1 brown/white instead of 2, one for the horn and 1 for the high beam trigger. From what I can tell, there has never been a horn ring rider on this switch. I have ordered the correct switch and a new light relay since it doesn't work anyhow, even when manually triggered.

Wires are my thing.........we get along real good!

[mountainkowboy]

Got one of the bows in today and did some sewing on the top, trying to get it workable for this winter. Its starting to look like a convertible, but my rear window wont go in. The wood is all broken up and the steel is kinda flat.....no curve. Guess I will be ordering the window wood.

[mountainkowboy]

The parts are in for the "butt sag" repairs, so I think Vivian is going up on jack stands next week and getting taken apart. The tranny has a bad bearing and growls during accel only, so I guess the engine and trans will come out also, and I'll do a KDR exchange trans. Good thing I'm only 40 miles from them.

For those who have done them......will there be any surprises getting the trailing arm bushings out? Do I need to press them out, are they sleeved or will they just come out once the arm is removed? Planning on doing new soft brake lines also, does anyone make steel braided lines for these? I will check to see what shape the bearings are in also and if needed they will be changed.

Update on the rear window.............I made one from Lexan for now.....till I get a new top.

[Piledriver]

The old suspension bushings will ~fall out,,, might have to scrape some out.
The inners are in two halves with a tube inside going through both---
They will still probably fall out if original, whack with airhammer perhaps.

Polish up the steel<>urethane contact points, things will need to move.
(at least a good wire brushing, the old rubber must at least all come off)

When you get to the front, some of the steering bits may require a press, or at least a Big Vise.
(been many years since I did that, may be mixing up tasks in memory now)

I strongly suggest buying good quality stock-replacement Meyle or such brake rubber lines.

They do make allegedly DOT approved braided stainless.
You won't be able to tell the difference in braking with drums on all 4 corners.
It's primary purpose is to lighten your wallet.
I could see it on a rail.

[mountainkowboy]

Thanks Piledriver for the info. I will go to disc on the front, since its an easy upgrade on a super. For now I'm just doing rear bushings and trans mounts with a rebuilt trans..........that should lighten my wallet enough for a couple of months while I gather the bits needed to do the front end rebuild.

[Marc]

...The tranny has a bad bearing and growls during accel only...

More pronounced in 1st and 2nd, or in 3rd and 4th? The former's most likely a pinion bearing, go with the exchange trans to simplify your life.

[mountainkowboy]

...The tranny has a bad bearing and growls during accel only...

More pronounced in 1st and 2nd, or in 3rd and 4th? The former's most likely a pinion bearing, go with the exchange trans to simplify your life.

Seems to be the same in every gear and I think its the counter shaft bearing in the nosecone. it has the same pitch range in every gear.

[Marc]

No "countershaft" in a VW transaxle, all power flows via a gearset from the engine (mainshaft) to the differential (pinion shaft)

The front mainshaft bearing typically makes more noise in 3rd and 4th (the gears closest to it on the mainshaft). This bearing can be replaced without any major surgery by using a special puller that grasps its races twixt the balls. I wouldn't pay the price for a new OEM German bearing to "patch" an unknown box, but if the noise is its only issue you can get a Chinese knockoff for cheap and toss it in, could very well give many years more service for not much more than a few hours of your time...provided you can find someone who has the puller to loan or rent out. Note that the late (002 or 091) bearing lacks the flange of the earlier ones, so there's considerably less surface area contacting the nosecone. This makes them dig into the nosecone, resulting in excessive mainshaft endplay; you can resurface it to restore flatness, the backup light switch may need double-gasketing by the time you're done, or you can have .040" milled off it and add an aftermarket steel plate to make up for the lost thickness and make it better'n new. It may cost nearly as much as you could hope to sell if for if you don't put it (and an engine) back in to verify that the noise is gone. If you aren't that ambitious, someone who is should be willing to give you $25 or more for it based upon your promise that it works in all gears.

http://www.appletreeauto.com/VW-TRANSMI ... -BEARINGS/
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 0&t=106602
http://weddleindustries.com/sites/weddl ... 1-INST.pdf

[mountainkowboy]

Sorry.......I ment the mainshaft and I just think it would be easier to exchange it at KCR, Its only 40 miles from me.

[mountainkowboy]

Question?

We have 2 sets of rim/tires for the CR-V, summer and winter when we lived on the mountain. Since we moved off the mountain I have the factory alloys that came on it at my disposal. They are 16x6.5 with a 50mm offset............how would these work on the super? Stock Honda tire size is 215/65-16, I was thinking stock size on the rear with 195/60-16 on the front....what do you think? Will I need spacers on the front? Or on both?.................Just kicking around some ideas since I already have the wheels