upright turbo build

[tonyorlo]

Im building this engine for my 74 ghia, this is my first air cooled engine so Im still learning. Im on the fence about the displacement I will go with. The engine is a 1.8, Im not sure if I am going to buy a 2.0 crank, or have my 1.8 polished and re use it. As of now the plan is to turbo with an air to air ic, megasquirt, edis, joe calis upright conversion, and the porsche 901 trans. Im going to try to retain the factory heat, I have an idea for using the 914 exhaust manifolds and making some heater boxes for them. Ive been lurking on here non stop for the last few months and I am learning alot. As of now I tore the engine down, and cleaned it up. I have been working on getting the cooling system built. I am fiberglassing the upper cyl covers, front and back head tins.







It obviously needs cleaned up lol but its a start.

[Piledriver]

Note that Wallys 2.2L hero turbo motor was mostly running a stock 1.7L crank and prepped stock rods...
Just saying.

Fiberglass always kicked my ass.

[tonyorlo]

I guess I should say his build has been my inspiration on deciding to turbo the engine. Its unbeliveable what hes done on stock parts. After figureing up the totals, I dont know if I can justify spending another $5-600 for .2 litres. Im not going to race the car, just have fun with it on the weekends. Im even considering running hyper pistons for the tighter clearences. I have a friend whos excelent at tuning turbo cars, I feel he can steer me in the right direction. It will be water injected as well.

Haha, fiberglass can be a pain in the ass but I enjoy it. Everytime I make something I get a little better at it. I was set on the horizontal corvair cooling setup, but I think I might of been over my head trying that. Maybe someday?

[tonyorlo]

Any thoughts on what cylinders I should run? I would like to have a 94mm bore. I would have the stock ones punched out, but there already at 96mm, and they had some water in them so they would need bored out to be useable. I contacted wiesco and they will change the pin height on their t1 pistons to the 36mm t4 height for $5 a pop.

I see a lot of guys saying to use stock ones, and I'm sure a set will pop up in the classifieds eventually but I'm Leary of buying used parts. Are there any good aftermarket choices, aside from nickies?

[tonyorlo]

Also what about injectors for the stock 1.8 intake manifolds? Is there a common style injector that fits in there, or should I change out the bosses for a more common type injector?

[Piledriver]

Again, for turbo use I'd look at 93mm bore, AA jugs and Wisecos for Subaru 1mm OS, set the pin to 24mm and where needed. Thickest cylinder you can get.

The T4 injector boss is a very common size, I use R1 injectors in mine with std orings for the injector to manifold seal. (pico injectors same physical size as later GSXR)
You just need to make a different hold down setup. I stole RonWs idea, injector rail hold down also doubles to hold the LS2 coil bracket. (used the factory studs)
I cut and welded some Yamaha R1 fuel rails, right spacing for T4.

[tonyorlo]

Well that will make it easier sourcing injectors. Oem Hayabusa injectors should supply enough fuel? After looking them up, it would look cool to have each runner going to a throttle body with them all in line together. Too bad the injectors are attached to them.

[Piledriver]

`busa injectors might be perfect.

The R1 flavors I have work out to be ~230cc injectors.
(Mine are actually off a Jetski with the marine version of the R1)

The matching 42mm TBs I have are flange mount, and true ITBs, trivial to space out to Weber spacing...
The ITBs are also only ~60mm tall.

[tonyorlo]

Can I put a dog house on a fan shroud that didn't originally have one?

[Piledriver]

Can I put a dog house on a fan shroud that didn't originally have one?

Not effectively, a DH shroud takes a wider fan and has some extra vanes and ductwork to make it all work properly.

[tonyorlo]

Oh. Figured I would ask, I've came across a few good deals on shrouds without dog houses.

[Piledriver]

Oh. Figured I would ask, I've came across a few good deals on shrouds without dog houses.

Now you know why they were so cheap...
No one wants them.

[benito26]

Oh. Figured I would ask, I've came across a few good deals on shrouds without dog houses.

Why is that a problem? use external thermo controlled coolers while still getting air to the heads.

[Piledriver]

Oh. Figured I would ask, I've came across a few good deals on shrouds without dog houses.

Why is that a problem? use external thermo controlled coolers while still getting air to the heads.

That's fine as long as you put an actual early cooler in the early fan housing.
Flow is badly imbalanced without it, the housing was designed around its presence.
It will work OK as long as you have the proper head tins with deflectors... and the cooler.
The cooler does not actually need oil going through it, and can be attached to the shroud, bottom cut off to leave room for the block oil bypass.

A doghouse housing flows the same with or without the std cooler.
It also allows using said extra cooler as a full flow unit with an external thermostat.
(flipped ala DTM is easiest)
The cooler can be replaced with a setrab or the stock cooler can be used, it's reasonably efficient.

I have also seen it adapted to a duct and routed to an external cooler.

Sharpbuilt cooling setups that have the duct to the T4 cooler in the stock location---relatively easy to do with a doghouse shroud as the duct goes through the dead spot where the oil cooler adapter once lived.

[benito26]

From previous actual experience an early shroud without early cooler complete with Upright Sharpbuilt kit and modified stock T4 bottom tins running bypass thermo fan ran cooler than 1915cc type 1 preceding it.
Seems the early cooler just got in the way of airflow hence almost always overheating #3 cylinder and the progress modification to a doghouse for the later engines.