AN fittings work well and are easy to find in NPT, not sure if they fit your quick disconnect desire though. Most quick disconnect fittings are plastic and work well with plastic fuel line just depends on what you like. I prefer steel line with short pieces of rubber at flex points.
Kenric
In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
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woodsbuggy1
- Posts: 820
- Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:15 pm
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Good quality is getting harder and harder to find.
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Yeah I should keep it simple under the tank. Already laid hardlines in the corner of the tunnel and pan (passenger side) and am using FI hose between those sections.
But I've never liked the long hose run from the chassis to the engine. I'll come up with something better there.
Max
But I've never liked the long hose run from the chassis to the engine. I'll come up with something better there.
Max
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17761
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Bending hard lines is fairly easy... with the right tools. I have a bender that allows tighter bends than most w/o the problem of the lines creasing on the inside.
I bought one like this several years ago and so far it has worked well for tight smooth bends of both fuel and brake lines. As I remember it was fairly cheap at the time. I have used other styles in the past but tight bends were a problem.
The two wheels are for different line thicknesses with one having two line capabilities using it.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=br ... &FORM=IGRE
This shows several other types of benders some with the impression that you can do some very tight arc bends.
For many reasons I prefer metal tube lines rather than soft lines... with a few exceptions that is. The fancy stuff is good for show but can often be a problem in more rugged use situations.
Lee
I bought one like this several years ago and so far it has worked well for tight smooth bends of both fuel and brake lines. As I remember it was fairly cheap at the time. I have used other styles in the past but tight bends were a problem.
The two wheels are for different line thicknesses with one having two line capabilities using it.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=br ... &FORM=IGRE
This shows several other types of benders some with the impression that you can do some very tight arc bends.
For many reasons I prefer metal tube lines rather than soft lines... with a few exceptions that is. The fancy stuff is good for show but can often be a problem in more rugged use situations.
Lee
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Well I could have chosen the hole placement better. The cover is directly above the tubes in the chassis. If I had placed the cover to the right (closer to the MC) the hose runs would have been cleaner.
This will work. Access to the hoses will be from the right (passenger) side with the wheel off.
This will work. Access to the hoses will be from the right (passenger) side with the wheel off.
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risk
- Posts: 328
- Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:43 pm
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
I like it! Nice and simple.
Aeroquip makes nice quick disconnects but aren't cheap $$$.
If I had it to do over again, I would add some sort of drain valve, or tee/valve where I could power the pump on and empty the system. Right now I remove a line off a fuel rail, add an extension hose, run to a fuel jug, then power the pump on to drain the system.
Aeroquip makes nice quick disconnects but aren't cheap $$$.
If I had it to do over again, I would add some sort of drain valve, or tee/valve where I could power the pump on and empty the system. Right now I remove a line off a fuel rail, add an extension hose, run to a fuel jug, then power the pump on to drain the system.
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Yeah I do the same thing except I disconnect the return line under the car by the transmission.
I'll mock up the inside bracket when the borescope I ordered arrives to help me get the pump location right. I've always wanted a borescope ... so many uses.
Max
I'll mock up the inside bracket when the borescope I ordered arrives to help me get the pump location right. I've always wanted a borescope ... so many uses.
Max
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andy198712
- Posts: 2433
- Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2011 1:01 pm
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
great looking setup! i've been looking at that Holley mat since it came out, waiting for someone to make a cheaper version....
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Clatter
- Posts: 2034
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2002 1:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
FWIW, it always seemed to me that it might be good to use a later model tank?
They had all of the provisions for FI built right in..
They had all of the provisions for FI built right in..
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Yeah, when I squirted the 68 that was handy. Of course 68+ tanks have the filler in the wrong place for a 67.
Max
Max
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Plan A not working. I have made several brackets between the hat and the pump and none have the right angles to let me feed the thing through the 3-1/2" hole.
Plan B is to lash the pump to the fuel level sender tube with no bracket between the hat and the pump.
That should work but removal of the sender will require taking the tank out of the car and removing the hat from the bottom.
Max
Plan B is to lash the pump to the fuel level sender tube with no bracket between the hat and the pump.
That should work but removal of the sender will require taking the tank out of the car and removing the hat from the bottom.
Max
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
So I couldn't solve the problems of a bracket connecting the "hat" and the pump that puts the pump (and the mat) in a good position. So I have a new plan.
Instead of mechanically connecting the hat to the pump with a bracket I will lash the pump to a rod running inside the tank top to bottom. I'll drill holes top and bottom and weld the ends of the rod into the tank. I will locate the rod so the pump puts the hydramat in a good place in the bottom of the tank. The rod is just a length of steel brake line I had laying around.
Since the rod will connect the top and bottom of the tank the hose-clamp has to be open at installation. And that means I will need both hands inside the tank. So a second hole will be needed to get two hands in there.. And another cover.
Now, where to put the rod? The hyrdamap should work well set diagonally such that the lowest part of the tank is covered.
The pump input goes where the big dot is and the rod goes at the "+". The distance between them is determined by how the rod is clocked on the pump. The tape is a proxy for the mat. Helps me get the spacial thinking right.
The pump should be close enough to the "hat" that the wire and the submersible hose will reach.
I arrived at the rod idea after tossing the idea of lashing the pump the fuel level sender. That would have made it impossible to remove the sender without mucking about with the pump. This makes the two independent.
Tomorrow I'll configure a cover for the new access hole.
Max
Instead of mechanically connecting the hat to the pump with a bracket I will lash the pump to a rod running inside the tank top to bottom. I'll drill holes top and bottom and weld the ends of the rod into the tank. I will locate the rod so the pump puts the hydramat in a good place in the bottom of the tank. The rod is just a length of steel brake line I had laying around.
Since the rod will connect the top and bottom of the tank the hose-clamp has to be open at installation. And that means I will need both hands inside the tank. So a second hole will be needed to get two hands in there.. And another cover.
Now, where to put the rod? The hyrdamap should work well set diagonally such that the lowest part of the tank is covered.
The pump input goes where the big dot is and the rod goes at the "+". The distance between them is determined by how the rod is clocked on the pump. The tape is a proxy for the mat. Helps me get the spacial thinking right.
The pump should be close enough to the "hat" that the wire and the submersible hose will reach.
I arrived at the rod idea after tossing the idea of lashing the pump the fuel level sender. That would have made it impossible to remove the sender without mucking about with the pump. This makes the two independent.
Tomorrow I'll configure a cover for the new access hole.
Max
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
You actual machinists may wish to avert your eyes. 
A machinist in town cut me a two piece cover out of aluminum.
Said I could save some money by doing the rest myself. It's ugly but I think it will work.
The retaining ring will go on the inside of the tank and a seal (like the one that came with the pump) goes on the outside with the cap over top.
So to the ugly. I'm working with a Harbor Freight drill-press not an actual mill. Plus I don't really know what I'm doing so these flats are ugly.
Is it possible this tool is meant for wood?
I'm going to need something under the head of the bolt that is impervious to fuel. There is a path from the inside of the tank up the threads of these bolts.
And I wound up getting one of the threads in the ring crocked. I was trying to handle the tap by hand. After that I used the drill press to hold onto the tap while I turned it by hand. That seemed to work. But tedious.
Max
A machinist in town cut me a two piece cover out of aluminum.
Said I could save some money by doing the rest myself. It's ugly but I think it will work.
The retaining ring will go on the inside of the tank and a seal (like the one that came with the pump) goes on the outside with the cap over top.
So to the ugly. I'm working with a Harbor Freight drill-press not an actual mill. Plus I don't really know what I'm doing so these flats are ugly.
Is it possible this tool is meant for wood?
I'm going to need something under the head of the bolt that is impervious to fuel. There is a path from the inside of the tank up the threads of these bolts.And I wound up getting one of the threads in the ring crocked. I was trying to handle the tap by hand. After that I used the drill press to hold onto the tap while I turned it by hand. That seemed to work. But tedious.
Max
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Bruce.m
- Posts: 811
- Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:44 pm
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
A counterbore bit would have been better. Uses the smaller bore to centre the bit and drills a recess for a socket head bolt to fit into.
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Installed the rod today. It is located at the "X" near the Holley cover. The Hydramat will be approximately where the tape is across the bottom of the tank.
And the top end just gets chopped flush and welded.
Noticed some rust on the inside of the top so I dumped in some EvapoRust. That's what I used on the inside bottom and it worked great. If the EvapoRust missed anything I can get in there with a wire wheel on a die-grinder.
Tomorrow I'll apply tank sealant.
Max
And the top end just gets chopped flush and welded.
Noticed some rust on the inside of the top so I dumped in some EvapoRust. That's what I used on the inside bottom and it worked great. If the EvapoRust missed anything I can get in there with a wire wheel on a die-grinder.
Tomorrow I'll apply tank sealant.
Max
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Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: In Tank FI Pump Solutions?
Tank back from the sand blasting / powder coating. The holes gave hime some access to blast the interior and I was able to get the far corners with evaporust. Now the sealant is drying (96 hours).
Max
Max
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