2270cc type 4 EFI Turbo: my first engine build

[split1950]

I guess I just figured you wouldn't have all that oil being slung around by the engine. That surely has to lighten the load.
I wanted to do a dry sump but I'm out of places to put stuff and I don't know where I would put another tank.

Yeah I have to locate a tank too - I'll let you know how when I know!

[buguy]

I'm interested!

[woodsbuggy1]

With your fab skills I am sure you could build a dry sump tank to fit somewhere. We build aluminum ones for offroad buggys, just a tank with baffles top and bottom not really anything special. Very nice header, even with correct cylinder pairing!!!
Fantastic work!
Kenric

[split1950]

Thanks! Yeah that's the plan, I have several ideas, I'm even wondering about up inside a rear wing using the M8 bolts, I think my preference is above the gearbox, like a saddle over to one side - the split bug has a hatch in the package tray so I could access it easily enough.
Once the engine gets it's final position I will steam ahead.

[split1950]

So I'm looking again at all the extra weight I've added to the rear of this car, 915 transmission, type 4 engine, turbo, dry sump tank, chargecooler, etc
Currently I have the stock 1302S rear torsion bars.
Should I upgrade to something from Porsche 944 too? Anyone done this? I read somewhere the ideal is 25.5mm diameter, all I can find here is 23.5 or 24mm 944 stuff......

[Bruce.m]

Remember the math.
Diameter increases to a torsion bar are 4th power increase to the spring rate.

Basic 944 bars are +30% spring rate.

[split1950]

Progress on the engine side is slow recently (body / chassis is the focus still - need to get it in final mock up ASAP) but I did get my Cam position sensor clamp I made in CAD physically made - it's really cool - now I've got some other cool ideas........
So here it is in the virtual world

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and in the physical world

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and with the Cam sync from Mario fitted

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boys and their toys.........

[buguy]

3D printer?

[split1950]

No CNC milled from Aluminium then anodized.
My friend cut it at work for me

[buguy]

Very nice!

[Wally]

Nice! Cool you can draw that yourself!

[split1950]

Some progression recently

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(I'm not happy about that patch on the outer ring - I think when mock up is finished I'll satin Black epoxy it)
Been at the 3D CAD again, got a early bus LED board from Chip (they are excellent!) and modified it for the Split bug rear lights to try to avoid being crashed in to as split bug lights are not really suitable in today's traffic (not really an engine topic but let's call it brakes related lol)

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Printed

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(it just slots in to where the bulb goes in the standard light bracket then needs sticking with seam sealer / panel glue.

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Here's a shaky video of it in action (sorry about the quality, my phone didn't like the saturation)

We're working on the rear chassis bolt in structure for the A arms and 5 link, still in mock up stage but the concept looks like it will work.
The plate will bolt through to where the lever shocks went originally. The idea is the whole thing can be unbolted and returned to 25HP stock trans & engine.

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Gonna rose joint the end of the A arms too (this is the biggest I got get here)

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Getting closer!

[buguy]

Looks beefy!

[mactaylor]

Very cool!

[split1950]

So I've run into a packaging problem and need to move my turbo to the more traditional type1 location (by the type 4 oil filter).
But ideally I want to ditch the oil filter and relocate it.
I believe my case is full flowed (see the Black galley plugs by the oil filter mount);

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I'm running a dry sump too.
Can I use those blocked off holes by the original filter and a remote filter mount (block off the old filter head with a CSP block off)?
I see information about filter location on dry sump, honestly I don't know what is best and don't want to find out the hard way.

Maybe someone with dry sump type 4 has experience here?