Safari Turbo/Megasquirt Fuel Injection Project

[buguy]

Have you had much time to mess with your new speed sensors? Have you used the dyno feature on your TS yet?

[Clonebug]

Sensors are installed but not hooked up....that will be a Winter 2020 upgrade due to time constraints and the trans repair.

[Schweg]

Have you had much time to mess with your new speed sensors? Have you used the dyno feature on your TS yet?

There is a dyno feature?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Clonebug]

Tunerstudio has a dyno tab that you can setup up fuel useage. wheel speed, gps speed and other perameters to compute hp and trap speed/ET.

[Clonebug]

I ended up doing a fast Buggy tear down this past Wednesday through Sunday Morning.
I have been fighting boost leaks most of this spring and I finally had fixed them by using 4 clamps on some of the silicone connectors and using some spacers on my TB shaft.
When I went to test it a week ago I promptly blew an injector out enough to leak fuel all over the place. I re seated the injectors and made some washers with a bend in them to keep them from moving......I thought......
Going to work Tuesday morning I just had to pass someone and hit full boost........blew the injector out again and leaked fuel 5 miles to work......

So I tore it apart Thursday night and Friday night........spent 6 hours looking for my old intake system fuel lines........without success.....
What I found was when I installed the injectors I must have pinched or rolled two o-rings. That was causing the leak under high pressure.....they must have turned the flat spot and allowed air to come in and fuel to go out.......so I ran to the parts store to get new o-rings........Make and Application please..........WTH???!!!!
So I guessed a 2010 Ford Mustang and Voila!!!!!! I grabbed 4 repair kits and a new tube of Syl-Glyde. Installed the new orings with lots of lube.....modified the injector hold downs a bit......and also installed a set of Megaclamps on the intake from work that they use on the Diesel trucks.
These are the clamps I used......

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... ajaxhist=0

Tested it with the air compressor and it holds to 25 lbs.
I got it back together in time to take the Wife to lunch today and boy...it drives nice now. I haven't done any boosting and probably won't try too much since we are off to Eastern Washington in the Buggy for our Anniversary in less than two weeks.
I don't want to mess that up so will take it a little easy on it for now.

[buguy]

I wonder why you have trouble with leaks on your connections? We have pretty much the same set ups and I've never had a leak there or blown one off. I really never even pay much attention when i out them back on. I don't have high end connectors or anything either. My TB itself leaks like mad though.
Glad to hear you got that fuel leak fixed. That could have been a real disaster. Yikes! Scary stuff. Makes me want to put a fire extinguisher in the car in case the worst should happen.
I had to use one of those clamps like the one you linked. Right off the turbo i have a super sharp 90, and for some reason my T clamps wouldn't slide over it there.

[kangaboy]

Makes me want to put a fire extinguisher in the car in case the worst should happen.

Isn't that AirCooled VW 101?

[buguy]

I've had mine since 1990 and no extinguisher yet. Might be time though!

[andy198712]

its cheap just to buy a small powder one or two....

[Ol'fogasaurus]

... I had to use one of those clamps like the one you linked. Right off the turbo i have a super sharp 90, and for some reason my T clamps wouldn't slide over it there.

When you bend tubes, especially in tight bends, the material at top of the the tube stretches while the inside of the bend material compresses which usually causes the tube to "oval" slightly or a lot in the bend.

Lee

A little bit more of clarification. The stretching, when bending, thins out the metal on the outside of the bend while the inside of the bend compacting thickens it up as I think I said before. The bulge on the sides it the metal trying to get the thinning and compression to work together... IOW... it is confused!

I also forgot to mention that when bending tube, as the top material stretches, as I said, the material is pulled down towards the inside of the bend which is another gift for the ovaling.

Also, I recommend when bending steel tube you remove any paint or such especially on the outside of the bend as you want to keep an eye out for a grey or black fog or something similar start to show especially on tight bends. This means that the metal has reached it's stretch limit and the surface is starting to tear. With the color change, unless you are putting a lot of pressure inside of the tube, it should be OK... but it is a warning.

For what it is worth I have bent square tube this way and it has some interesting things happen but what is really different is mostly found on the inside of the bend and not always immediately either.

Lee
Lee

[buguy]

Mine is a silicone 90*. But i did have to cut the length down to get the tightest bend possible.

[Clonebug]

I wonder why you have trouble with leaks on your connections? We have pretty much the same set ups and I've never had a leak there or blown one off. I really never even pay much attention when i out them back on. I don't have high end connectors or anything either. My TB itself leaks like mad though.
Glad to hear you got that fuel leak fixed. That could have been a real disaster. Yikes! Scary stuff. Makes me want to put a fire extinguisher in the car in case the worst should happen.
I had to use one of those clamps like the one you linked. Right off the turbo i have a super sharp 90, and for some reason my T clamps wouldn't slide over it there.

It could be because I use steel tubing on most of my intake except the custom end pieces. I'm too cheap for aluminum tubing plus I can't weld it.
I have no idea why it leaks on my system. I'm thinking the silicone tubing isn't up to snuff. Maybe it fatigues with all the install and removal that I do.

And....I'm not too sure that our systems are the same except for maybe the turbo.
Header is different....
TB is different....
Plenum shapes are different......
Intercooler is different......
Oh....the turbo is also different now.......
Bug vs buggy.......

[buguy]

You know when i built mine i was super nervous about using that polished aluminum. I'm almost wondering if that super smooth surface helps it grab. There has been times i had to use a blast of air to separate them. 2 smooth surfaces together... Ya know?

[GS guy]

If you're using any welded ERW tube CB, I'd make 100% sure the weld seam isn't even detectable (smoothed and polished) wherever you have couplers attached. You are pushing the limits though, maybe beyond the design limits of sillycone couplers? Either get the best couplers available, or go to V-band connections.
Have you tried the Murray style hose clamps?
https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/consta ... lamps-tss/
I gather they expand and contract with the tubing/heat. Expensive, but pushing the boost levels you're at, money is no object - right??!!
Jeff

[Piledriver]

Lots of folk running high boost (diesels, 60+psi) weld tabs onto the hose clamps and drop a couple screws into the metal.
I suspect you can even buy them made like that.