Cheap ebay intercoolers (Now just my tuning thread)

[Coyotemutt]

I think I've settled on running an intercooler to help me get to the 8-10 psi goal I have. Since it's a pretty mild goal I figured one of those really cheap ebay intercoolers aught to be good enough.

I plan to mount it up just behind my roof rack on my baja so it gets alot of airflow. I was thinking a 28" long one that's only a few inches tall.

I'm just trying to nail down how to prevent detonation for around 200 to 300 dollars. I was thinking of using the CB black box but I cant find one in stock anywhere. Water injection seems like a cool idea but I cant seem to wrap my head around fabricating it. That leaves either running almost no timing advance or using an intercooler.

[Schweg]

I have both, and I started with water meth and then piped in an Intercooler.

If I had to pick one i would go with water meth injection. It’s pretty simple, a tank, a 50psi pump, hose, and a Hobbs pressure switch to turn the system on gets you up and running. I would lean towards that vs an Intercooler because setting up WM injection covers you for higher boost as it’s a simple nozzle change.

If your Chinese Intercooler isn’t super efficient you have slowed spool and at some point it’s may not help your boost addiction cause your gonna want to turn it up.

If your set on an Intercooler I see them on Facebook market place often of 60-120 for some brand name higher dollar items.

I also mounted my Intercooler off the back to ease mounting issues. It looks fairly ludicrous but works well and settled out the rear end in cross winds.

[Coyotemutt]

How many miles will the injection last? I drive my beetle as my main vehicle. I've had nothing but beetles since I turned 17 and I'm 33 now. I just dont like anything else.

So will water-meth work in a car that may see a couple tanks of gas in a single drive?

And I promise you, I won't have a boost addiction. 10psi is as much power as I want. And I felt an entirely un-cooled 10 last time I drove. I just want to get 10psi intermittent and 6psi continuous (got some big hills here) without fear of detonation.

[Coyotemutt]

Actually, I think I'd get more for my dollar with the water injection. I just probably have to inject at or near the ports since my turbo plumbing is steel... right?

[Schweg]

Depending on your tank size and how much your in boost it should last a long time. I have a 3 gallon tank that i haven’t filled in 6 months.

The Hobbs switch is PSI set manually so if you want to spray only above a set psi you could only inject above say 6psi allowing you detonation protection when you want it most.

You could inject where ever I would inject the furthest up stream you can, allowing it to pull heat from the charged air.

[Clonebug]

I use a gas tank from a Craftsman Lawnmower. It holds about a gallon of Mix.
I can go over a thousand miles on a tank of water in normal driving like going to work or taking the wife somewhere for a day drive.
It's just how I drive the buggy normally.
If I was boosting all the time it would use more but for me driving to work and back it lasts a long time.
Water/Alcohol injection...if set up right......will remove 100 degrees of heat from your IAT's.
I recommend a staged setup.
I use a 1.0 gph for 4 lbs boost up to 9.0 lbs and the second nozzle kicks on at 9.0 lbs. and is a 2.0 gph nozzle.
It is good enough for up to 20 plus lbs. of boost.
When it is staged like that it will not flood the engine with too much water at lower rpm/boost settings.

You pick your nozzles by hp output and engine size.

A standard 8500 series RV style pump will work fine if you crank the pressure up to 120 lbs.. For about $50.00 more you can get the 300 psi Devil's Own pump. I have that one now.

I use distilled water and Denatured Alcohol 50/50. It's available at my local Ace is the Place store. I also run a cheap filter on the feed lline ot the pump.
Use stainless fittings so they don't corrode.

[Coyotemutt]

I think this sells me on it. I wont need a complex system since I have modest goals. Basically I need a pressure switch to turn the pump on and off at a certain boost level, a reservoir, a pump, a nozzle, and some hose.

So I think I understand everything except what fittings need to be used to actually mount the nozzle into my intake. I'd like to place it in the Y of my plumbing, pointed into the incoming air to get a sort of counter current effect. If not there, then just immediately after the compressor.

[Clonebug]

I get my nozzles from "Devil's Own". They have a calculator on the website that will help you pick what size nozzle to use. It will all depend on how you want to set it up. More than likely you will build it one way and after turning up the boost or upgrading something else you will need to modify it.
It's part of the game.

If you mount the nozzle below the throttle plate you will need a 12 volt solenoid capable of operating at pressure and vacuum. If you don't the engine will suck all the water right out of the tank....been there done that.
Here is a pic of my dual solenoids......

IMG_3875.JPG

Dual Hobbes.......

IMG_3868.JPG

Cheapo tank.....

IMG_3870.JPG

[madmike]

I've still have about half a gallon left in the jug,, I just use 'pissor' juice This stuff last forever , no kidding i thought it (the tank level) would go down faster then what it does,,, best investment I've done,, no more buying race fuel. so far just 17 pounds is all I need

[Coyotemutt]

Thanks guys, you all rock.

My plan is to use an RV pump that can (supposedly) hit 80psi that I found for cheap. I'll use push to connect fittings and nylon hoses. I'll have my hobbs switch set to pop on at 5psi. I'll cut threads into my intake for the AEM 200ml/min nozzle and just screw it straight into the plumbing. I might use the stock windshield washer tank as a reservoir.

After that I guess I'll have to adjust the tune to use the new cooling efficiency.

Is there any sort of safety measure I should install in case of a clog or something? I could imagine things could go south FAST if you get a clog at full throttle.

[Schweg]

If you get a washer tank set up a low fluid indicator and wire in a light to show you when the pump is running. That way you at least know you have fluid and your pump runs


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[Clonebug]

It doesn't hurt to have safety measures built in.......Especially once you get to the higher boost numbers.
My engine will not survive without the W/I running....It will detonate hard. It's the price you pay for the power and performance.
That said........The higher pressure the pump puts out the better due to the boost pushing back against the pump pressure. An 80 psi capable pump is the minimum pressure I would go but will probably work for a while.. If you are staying at a max of 10 lbs. you will be fine....go up to 20 lbs you will probably need to upgrade once you find you still get detonation......It's an addiction I tell ya......
I use the first Hobbes switch to turn on the pump relay, the solenoid and also the " pump on" light. I have another light to indicate the second nozzle is activated.
I also use a float switch to activate a relay which turns on a low water light. I did rewire it to use the relay since it is a normally closed switch.....that means when it floats it's open. I got tired of the light flashing on once it got low enough to bump the float around when starting and stopping. Turning it around meant it was closed until it got low then it would open.....hence the relay to reverse the signal.
I also use ground activation on all the Hobbes, solenoids and indicator lights.
As far as using winter rated windshield fluid.....It will work. It's only about 30% alcohol. Alcohol gives you cooling and also some octane. 50/50 would probably be better.....again...at 10 lbs. it will more than likely be ok.

I've been running W/I since about 2013.....It's worked well for me and I've got it tuned for my engine.........every engine is different so it's up to you to make it work for your scenario.

If you use a 1.0 gph nozzle they will clog very easily and you will be in trouble. That's why I use a filter on the pump inlet side and make sure you use stainless fittings and good hose......any debris will plug the nozzle. Any thing other than stainless will corrode and plug your nozzles.......ask me how I know.....

[buguy]

That's gold right there. You can't buy that kind of information.

[Coyotemutt]

Hey, when you all talk about intake temps, are you considering the cooling that the fuel provides in a blow through situation? Carbs dont provide pre-vaporized fuel. The heat of the intake is responsible for ensuring it fully vaporizes before combustion.

If I had the means to do it, I think it would be cool to check the temp in the pressure hat vs the temp at the base of the intake manifold.

Consider this: if my actual intake temperatures were getting as high at 170 at the carburetor, wouldnt my gasoline be boiling right out of the float bowl?

[Coyotemutt]

I take that back. I think the intake runner is way too short for fuel to do any cooling with dual carbs. Besides, by IR gun says I'm wrong :p