2058cc Build

[Kafer_Mike]

Hey Nate - Here's a really good tech article on AFR tuning by John @ aircooled.net. Lots of information to digest, but a great read and reference -- https://www.aircooled.net/how-to-use-a- ... -4-engine/

[V8Nate]

Hey Nate - Here's a really good tech article on AFR tuning by John @ aircooled.net. Lots of information to digest, but a great read and reference -- https://www.aircooled.net/how-to-use-a- ... -4-engine/

I'll have to give it a good read thanks

[V8Nate]

The little 2058 has been running well! My final jetting is 55 idles, F11 e-tubes, 130 mains and 230 a/c's. That is giving me a good average drive where its not overly rich all the time but wot. 225 a/c's definitely give me a better wot afr but then its on the rich side everywhere else. It's close enough for some carbs.

I tried running my breather on manifold vacuum but it actually made the car run really lean on cruise i had to have the throttle plates almost closed for a 900 rpm idle so I put the breather back to atmosphere and cracked open the idle bypass screws to get the throttle plates where they needed to be.

Soby far I have about 1100 miles on it and I did find a shim that was bent on the rocker arm, it was a .015 shim on the outside and a .030 shim on the inside by the rocker block. I grabbed a new .015 shim and swapped the shims so the .030 shim on the outside and re adjusted the valves. And the damn throttle cable broke when i was out driving the wheels off it, got lucky in having spare parts in the car to get me home:)

Did a little quick video after I cleaned the garage today had to Christen the new garage:)

https://youtu.be/kfWTBW54PeQ[IMG]https: ... 377d85.jpg[/IMG]

[V8Nate]

Fired it up last night with my Nodiz pro ignition only ecu and dubshop hidden crank trigger! It fired right up after i set the cps sensor offset and hooked the plug wires to the coil correctly!
https://youtu.be/BKQF-5PMDKM[IMG]https: ... 5e0786.jpg[/IMG]

[brewsy]

How many coils you using Nate?
Does that thing still use the dizzy for cam position sensing?

Cheers

[V8Nate]

I am using this coil, a few years back I bought this setup from the Uk that came with the ecu, universal harness, map sensor and a coil. I should have just bought a megasquirt(which I now own) but I've got a few things I'm going to experiment with on this motor so I figured why not have some fun and go crankfired:) as of now I am still carburated so no need for a cam sync but might in the future time will tell. I have been having fun showing that video to some of the old guys at work and asking them how does it keep running?! they get so confused its hilarious so ill probably just leave a dummy dizzy in there for a while

[brewsy]

I have been having fun showing that video to some of the old guys at work and asking them how does it keep running?! they get so confused its hilarious so ill probably just leave a dummy dizzy in there for a while

Hahahah, thats cruel
Looks like a Ford unit so that will be wasted spark.

Your motor already sounds good so cant wait to see what its like with FI using the MS..

Marc

[V8Nate]

Thanks Marc:)

It is in wasted spark and from what I can tell its off a newer ford from the uk. I reset the cps offset last night and messed around with the timing map and it is much happier now:) I still have to hook the map sensor up for a full 3d ignition but at the moment it's already running better:) im sure I can now open up the plug gap some ill have to do some research on a good gap

https://youtu.be/kB23el5iQHs

[V8Nate]

Just hit 2000 miles on my new engine, 840 with the fitech 2 barrel:)

With this engine combo(80x90.5, 86a cam, 1.4 rockers, 8.4cr) I am loving the all around torque. It's a very even pull up to 5k(I usually shift around 4800 it doesn't pull past 5k really)

Of course with anything more power is wanted but a turbo should definitely help with that:) but for an every day driver it does really well and has plenty of power "for a bug" on the street.

As far as the fitech goes, I guess everything has a learning curve. The cold starting is great and how fast it learns is pretty cool. I have had to fix a few things on it and had to reset the learning a couple times due to my own doing and it only left me stranded once which may have been my fault as well and if anyone would like to know the struggles let me know and I'll go into more detail but for now I'll just consider it a learning curve.

The only other issue I've had is the tensioner bearing for the mst serpentine setup. Luckily it didn't grenade while driving but one of the bearing cages broke so ones on order off Amazon.

I also made a new exhaust(from collector flange to tip) with 2.25 pipe and a magnaflow muffler coming out in front of the rear tire and it is much quieter and has a great note

The oil temps with the new decklid on usually sit right at 230°f (70-85 ambient) up to full temp cruising at 70-80 mph if I cruise it at 60-65 it's around 220-225 and if I push it to 85-90 for a few minutes it creaps up to 240-250, I haven't pushed it past that temp wise so I'm sure if I add a auxiliary cooler the temps would come down for more abuse. Since I've switched to straight 30 royal purple and a gene Berg schadek o-ringed pump(26mm) the oil pressure has been 10+lbs per 1000rpm even at 240 degrees so I'm happy with that.

Thanks again for everyone's advice and help on my first stroker build its been a great little mill

[OrangeCrusher]

Just read your thread. Man I hope I'm half as patient as you were. I'm at the begining of a 2110 build which may look similar to yours when done.
I have a Microjolt system I used on a previous motor and I think you might have just encouraged me to get it back out. My ring was bolted to the back of a pulley but I like yours better.
The Fitech is something I've never seen used before. Did you have that on from the start? because I thought I saw some Kads? anyway I'd be curious if the FI affected your efficiency.

The one thing I'll have to go back through to find is some info on how you did your AFR guage. I love gadgets on the dash and I feel like this info would be something I could use. especially during the tuning phase after building a motor...

[V8Nate]

Just read your thread. Man I hope I'm half as patient as you were. I'm at the begining of a 2110 build which may look similar to yours when done.
I have a Microjolt system I used on a previous motor and I think you might have just encouraged me to get it back out. My ring was bolted to the back of a pulley but I like yours better.
The Fitech is something I've never seen used before. Did you have that on from the start? because I thought I saw some Kads? anyway I'd be curious if the FI affected your efficiency.

The one thing I'll have to go back through to find is some info on how you did your AFR guage. I love gadgets on the dash and I feel like this info would be something I could use. especially during the tuning phase after building a motor...

Thanks for following along OC! I learned a lot building this motor it was fun:) the crank pulley I had modified by Mario @thedubshop , I believe he sells pulleys already modified with his trigger wheel but I could be wrong either way he does great work!

I had dual weber idf's on it for its first 1200 or so miles then switched over to this setup, it is FAR from perfect but I want to master it, I feel like it is attainable I just need the time. As a matter of fact my bug has been parked for the last few months as I've been working on my aunt's dune buggy which is getting a full rebuild. But as soon as I break in the cam in the dune buggy I'll be pulling the 2058cc out and putting this 1600cc in I just built to break it in! And before the motor goes back in I am going to split it apart and see how my 2k+ of very hard miles have been and how everything is holding up. If all the main bearings look good I won't bother with pulling the rods but it needs a serious reseal. That's the thing it needs to be clean clean clean!

The gauges have been nice to keep an eye on things especially how hard it's driven but I really mostly look at the afr and oil pressure and temp. The afr gauge is a plx, they are pretty bitchin and unlike the aem I had I'm still on my first o2 sensor the aem would eat those sensors up like crazy



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[OrangeCrusher]

Sounds like you have some leakage? Do you think that came from having to reopen it to put the oil slinger in? I'm planning on painting my case. I have some PJ1 Fast Black which is great for cases. Do you have any suggestions for getting the case absolutely clean short of hot tanking it? I noticed you used heat to get some of the oil out of the case. I have an oven I use for powder coating but I'm a little nervous about sticking magnesium in an oven. Do you think it's better to paint before assembly or after?

[V8Nate]

I think part of it was having to re open it up, I also tried sealants that a lot of people use I just didn't have the best of luck. In the past I have always used Indian head gasket shellac for the case halves and ultra black for a majority of the other surfaces without issue. The latest engine I used Indian head on the case and 1211 on the jugs, a VERY thin coating on the outer oil pump gasket, in between the pump and case, under the jugs and under the washers and nuts of the head studs in the valve cover area (its like yamabond or hondabond, i heard its the sh!t so we will find out) I did use ultra black on the valve cover gaskets though.

I usually like to keep my cases bare but this case was so corroded I wanted to stop the corrosion. If I remember correctly factory cases had something like alodine on them(kind of like a clear coat/ aluminum mag sealant)

I basically pressure washed it after I did all the clearance and drill/tap work and sandblasted the outside of the case, scuffed up the mating surfaces and cleaned it again with brake clean.

I preheated the case mostly to get the moisture out of the metal and give the paint a nice warm metal to adhere to and then baked it again for a half hour or so at about 250F. I also used my homemade oven for powder coating:)

If I were to do it again I would clean/paint/bake before any measurements or line bore would take place, although my block didnt change i think i got lucky. I think it would also be better to torque the case before it is baked(i have no science to back that theory just sounds like a good idea to me now)

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[OrangeCrusher]

I have used 1211 on my motorcycles back when I was rebuilding GSXR motors. It's great to seal cases that don't use gaskets. I believe permatex has something similar to it now too. I like the "grey" sealants.

I've always wondered about the painting of the case and how good I can make it stick when it's basically been soaking in oil for 10 years. My case is an AS41 AH that's a good five footer. It has some corrosion and wear, especially from where the doghouse had been rubbing. I'm not sure it'll do any good or that I even want to paint it anymore, but I have the paint already and it's a good reason to get the case as clean as possible. I don't think I'll go as far as to sand blast it though. I don't even like the fact that my parts are sitting in the same room as the sand blaster, lol.
Thanks for your input.

[V8Nate]

You betcha!

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