Porting and polishing turbo housings

[buguy]

Definitely making good power. I've seen in your vids your car seems to run super good! Your build was a real inspiration to me when i was building mine. Well done!

[Clonebug]

Nice Dan!!!
What's your IAT's on that pull???
Did you do a log while on the dyno???
Also...what cam you have in there...it sure drops off early.

[panel]

Can you just upload the vid to You Tube and post the link here ?

[Dan Dryden]

Nice Dan!!!
What's your IAT's on that pull???
Did you do a log while on the dyno???
Also...what cam you have in there...it sure drops off early.

Hey Clone, I didn’t do a log on the Dyno but have done some logs recently on the street. Average IAT on a full throttle pull is 45*C (113*F).
The cam is a TCS10 with 1.1:1 rockers, so I have scope to move to 1.25 rockers.
The map was done by someone who works at the company that makes the ECU I’m using, Emerald. I can see they are pulling a huge amount of timing on boost, with it seeing only 15* btdc at 22psi. So, I think that could also explain the sudden drop off....
Think I need to find a braver tuner!

[Dan Dryden]

Just uploaded it to YouTube.
Here’s the link:

https://youtu.be/z1cUP7JUyDg

[Clonebug]

Nice Dan!!!
What's your IAT's on that pull???
Did you do a log while on the dyno???
Also...what cam you have in there...it sure drops off early.

Hey Clone, I didn’t do a log on the Dyno but have done some logs recently on the street. Average IAT on a full throttle pull is 45*C (113*F).
The cam is a TCS10 with 1.1:1 rockers, so I have scope to move to 1.25 rockers.
The map was done by someone who works at the company that makes the ECU I’m using, Emerald. I can see they are pulling a huge amount of timing on boost, with it seeing only 15* btdc at 22psi. So, I think that could also explain the sudden drop off....
Think I need to find a braver tuner!

What are you using for intake cooling???.....I have forgotten your build specs. Maybe refresh a list here.
Timing is engine specific and you have to be able to listen for...and hear detonation in order to play with timing.
I agree that your timing is a little conservative but without knowing your other specs it's not my place to advise what timing should be.
If you don't have Water/Alcohol injection you could add that and it would get your intake temps to ambient or lower. That would allow you to increase timing after the high torque mid range.
OK...I looked up the specs of your cam and it is a W-110 on the intake and a W-100 on the exhaust. You should be able to pull at least to 5200 rpm and probably 5500 rpm before peaking in my opinion.
I personally would try bumping the timing from 4200 rpm up and increase in stages about 1-2 degrees at a time while listening carefully for detonation.

I have a large range of intake temps to tune for due to my long distance travels so my timing is a little conservative too to make up for high IAT's when in California.
I have lowered the midrange areas where the engine pulls boost when climbing 6% grades for 5 miles plus and high elevations. Add to that ambient temps pushing 106* F. and timing needs to change by a significant amount.

I am as high as 25 degrees at 4000-5500 rpm and 265-275 kpa though. My intake temps stay down in the 90 degree F. or lower area most times when I'm local driving.

[Dan Dryden]

Hey Clone, thanks for the pointers.
My plan is to fit water/meth injection and take it back to the original tuner for a second map.
My ECU has a switchable map function, so I can make good use of this by having the option of switching back to my current map if ever my WI tank runs dry or a fault occurs.
I think I will ask the tuner to play with adding some timing on my existing map before creating a WI map.
It was tuned back in 2013 and at the time, my IATs were pretty high (around 65*C) due to poor radiator placement. I’ve now placed the radiator in the front trunk area and enlarged it, which is why I’m seeing improved charge temps.
I guess at the time, my tuner was being cautious with the timing because of the high IATs he was seeing.
Anyway, here’s a pic of my setup.... because I know the people on this forum love a pic!

[Clonebug]

In my experience....130* F. is the critical point in IAT's and high boost. I ran 18-20 degrees advance when I saw those temps using only W/I. The intercooler.......while not super efficient.....does keep my intake temps down low, especially in the fall thru spring months. Summer is the time to keep an eye on IAT's and as long as you keep them below 100-110* F you can run some advance........of course...this is with my engine and yours could be different.
When I did my Dyno run in 2017 the ambient temps were around 38-40* F. and I was seeing a max of 73* F. on the 20.5 lb. boost pulls. We did 18 pulls and never had IAT's above 80* F. and the fan wasn't even hooked up. I think the low ambient temps and the temperature of the water/alcohol contributed to the low boosted IAT's.
If you are going to build a W/I system I strongly suggest using a dual nozzle setup in order to keep the W/I reasonable when in the mid boost numbers.

Here is my dyno run if you want to compare to yours. I think you can gain 5-15 hp with some tuning. Red is 20.5 lbs boost and blue is 6.0 lbs boost.

[buguy]

Crazy. My intake temps are higher than yours before i even start the car!

[Clonebug]

Crazy. My intake temps are higher than yours before i even start the car!

In the summer months I see ambient temps around 90-100* F. at cruise....but it doesn't go up on boost.The intercooler and W/I actually make the IAT's go down.

[buguy]

It's pretty typical for me to see 120-130* after a few hard pulls in the summer. I only got a few miles on the new set up, but initially the temps seem higher than they were before overall. I wonder how much the open engine compartment is helping you? Might have to try W/I myself.