Hi.
I may be in need of a speedi sleeve to sort out my leaking seal. My flywheel definitely is the culprit as it has deep scratches as a result of some grinding job poorly done.
As an option, can the flywheel be "filled" say by welding then machined back to smooth and size?
Speedi sleeves - leaking flywheel
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Clatter
- Posts: 2046
- Joined: Sun Apr 28, 2002 1:01 am
Re: Speedi sleeves - leaking flywheel
I have heard of people welding the flywheel snout back up and grinding it back to size,
But never have seen it IRL.
If you have the grinding equipment to do it right, then why not?
Quite the machine to do this, no doubt.
If you had a big enough lathe, and the patience to cut that hard weld to size, then polish it back out,
That would work if you put the time in.
Most would likely just spend the time finding a better flywheel..
But never have seen it IRL.
If you have the grinding equipment to do it right, then why not?
Quite the machine to do this, no doubt.
If you had a big enough lathe, and the patience to cut that hard weld to size, then polish it back out,
That would work if you put the time in.
Most would likely just spend the time finding a better flywheel..
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
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vanapplebomb
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:17 pm
Re: Speedi sleeves - leaking flywheel
Repair sleeves are slick for worn out flywheel snouts. Speedi Sleeve is like Kleenex, a trade name used to define a type of product. Loads of people make repair selves. Speedi Sleeve is just SKF’s repair sleeve. I personally use repair selves from Timken. In truth, they are all about the same these days. My local industrial supplier (and Autozone) distribute Timken products, so that is what I use.
My experience is that they come a bit long. So, after hammering on and tearing of the flange, you have to trim the repair sleeve so that it is flush, or just beyond flush with the nose of the flywheel. A die grinder makes fast work of trimming the extra length off. A sanding pad on a die grinder, or even a file cleans up the burrs nice. I like to chamfer the leading edge of it so you don’t cut the flywheel seal while installing the flywheel. Just don’t nick the face of the nose that seats on the crank.
Also, I like to use a little anaerobic fluid locking compound to seal up any possible leakage paths between the sleeve and flywheel. Even a scratch can result in a path for oil to weep out. Locking fluid will set up in those passage ways and keep oil from weeping out. Shaft/bearing retainer is good, but high strength thread locker works just as well. It isn’t used to retain the sleeve, just to fill any voids.
The finish on the sleeve will look slightly rough/unfinished, not polished to a mirror finish. This is a good thing. It is actually a better finish for oil seals than a mirror polish. It allows a small amount of oil to be retained between the sleeve and oil seal, and actually helps the seal keep a good edge longer. A lot of research has gone into determining the specific range of surface roughness that is ideal for oil sealing surfaces. Old wisdom was that a smooth surface was best. Turns out that isn’t actually the case. I can’t remember off the top of my head what RA value (surface toughness) range was, but I believe it is something like 0.25 or 0.50 micrometers. I am sure you can find it on the spec sheet of the repair sleeve. So, if you decide to weld and regrind the flywheel, have the nose of the flywheel ground to the RA value in the specs of the repair sleeves.
My experience is that they come a bit long. So, after hammering on and tearing of the flange, you have to trim the repair sleeve so that it is flush, or just beyond flush with the nose of the flywheel. A die grinder makes fast work of trimming the extra length off. A sanding pad on a die grinder, or even a file cleans up the burrs nice. I like to chamfer the leading edge of it so you don’t cut the flywheel seal while installing the flywheel. Just don’t nick the face of the nose that seats on the crank.
Also, I like to use a little anaerobic fluid locking compound to seal up any possible leakage paths between the sleeve and flywheel. Even a scratch can result in a path for oil to weep out. Locking fluid will set up in those passage ways and keep oil from weeping out. Shaft/bearing retainer is good, but high strength thread locker works just as well. It isn’t used to retain the sleeve, just to fill any voids.
The finish on the sleeve will look slightly rough/unfinished, not polished to a mirror finish. This is a good thing. It is actually a better finish for oil seals than a mirror polish. It allows a small amount of oil to be retained between the sleeve and oil seal, and actually helps the seal keep a good edge longer. A lot of research has gone into determining the specific range of surface roughness that is ideal for oil sealing surfaces. Old wisdom was that a smooth surface was best. Turns out that isn’t actually the case. I can’t remember off the top of my head what RA value (surface toughness) range was, but I believe it is something like 0.25 or 0.50 micrometers. I am sure you can find it on the spec sheet of the repair sleeve. So, if you decide to weld and regrind the flywheel, have the nose of the flywheel ground to the RA value in the specs of the repair sleeves.