T1 trans R&R

[H2OSB]

I'm about to install a late SSC (zig zag case) trans into my '74 Super to be hooked to my freshly rebuilt, very mildly warmed up 1641. The trans was in a running, driving car when I got it but has since been sitting on my garage floor for the past 6 years. Is there anything that is recommended to freshen it up for its upcoming labor?

I was considering changing the nose cone for a mount change(I want to run CB Rhino mounts front and rear) and to ensure I have no wear on the hockey stick. But perhaps I should change the seals and gear oil?

I would love to run a Super Diff and one of the strong side covers but I think that beyond my pay grade.

H2OSB

[Casting Timmy]

I would definitely recommend removing the nose cone and checking the mainshaft bearing out up top. I'd grab the input shaft and push it in and out wile watching that mainshaft bearing up top or moving in and out. An easier method might be taking that nose cone and looking at the underside for it and seeing if it's flat or not.

I really prefer the Bruce plate for mainshaft bearing replacement with the 9 tooth mainshafts, but the steel thrust plates work as well I just don't like the silicone sealing method.

[Bruce2]

You should be able to tell if any of the seals are leaking from the gunk on the outside. If the trans is relatively clean, don't mess with the seals.
If your trans is held together with bolts instead of studs and nuts, check the torque of the bolts.
nose cone: 11 ftlbs
gear carrier: 14 ftlbs,
Side cover: 22 ftlbs

An easier method might be taking that nose cone and looking at the underside for it and seeing if it's flat or not.

Here's what you're looking for when you have the nose cone off:

In this pic you can see the deep recess indicated by the yellow dots. It's not supposed to be there. This nose cone was pounded badly by the main shaft moving in and out like Timmy described. I guarantee yours has some of this pounding. They all do. Start with a piece of 60-80 grit sandpaper on a piece of glass and sand the nose cone until that groove is gone.
Post a pic of what yours looks like when you remove the nose cone.

You can't break the stock diff, you don't have enough hp, so a superdif is a waste of $. Same for an aftermarket side cover. Have a look at the progression of side covers:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album ... t_dir=DESC
You have the 2 ring side cover, the strongest one VW used. I know one drag racer who claimed that side cover was good up to 250hp.
One of the external things I do to all of my builds is to sand the face of the bell housing with some 80 grit sandpaper until it is bright metal. Same goes for the pad for the starter. This ensures maximum electrical conduction. Most shops try their best to screw you over by applying electrically insulating paint on these surfaces! You might also want to clean the surface around the stud that holds your ground strap on.

Here's my plate that Timmy mentioned:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... id=2390964

[H2OSB]

I'm perfectly fine with the stock diff. I'd prefer to not open the box in any way. And I'm thankful for the strong side cover. Two things I'd ask to be considered.

One, I plan to autocross the car all along the way. This doesn't mean drag-like launches, but perhaps harsher than than your typical street launches.

Two, ultimately this gearbox will be bolted to an upright converted 2056cc Type 4. I'm not planning anything crazy...about 125hp and maybe 150 ft.lbs. of torque.

Under these two conditions, the stock diff is still good? Hoping so. I know many have put more than twice the hp through a stock trans, and I'd MUCH prefer to not touch anything on the inside. Unfortunately I can't go out and remove the nose cone immediately due to a recently injured ankle so I'm layed up for a couple weeks, but can the small plate used without otherwise modding the trans? Seems like a great idea.

P.S. Nvm Bruce, no need to explain. It's perfectly described in your Samba ad, and also EXACTLY, I think, what I need since I'm wanting to swap on a 2 bolt nose cone.

H2OSB

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Are you going to install a Truss/Kaffer bar in place to support the trans mounts?

Lee

[Bruce2]

Under these two conditions, the stock diff is still good?

Are you an adult, or a boy-racer? I recently built a gearbox with a stock diff (SSC with 10-15 gears) that went in front of a 2.5 liter turbo'd Subaru. No problems at all because the owner is an adult. Then there are the numerous instances we've all heard of where guys are able to blow up the gearbox with a stock 1600.

... I'm wanting to swap on a 2 bolt nose cone.

Unless you find a relatively rare Thing-only nose cone, you'll have to modify the nose cone to fit.
In this pic, the brown plastic cage of the ball bearing sits a little bit above the gasket surface. If you just bolt on the early nose cone, it will bind on the cage and eventually rip it out. Then the balls all go to one side and the gearbox makes a ton of noise.

Compare your early nose cone to the photo I posted in my previous message.

[H2OSB]

I'm a sane adult. My boy racer days are well behind me. I just want to make sure my car, which not designed to be anything but a small, economy car can handle the occasional stupidity on my part. Although I know, full well, a Beetle is generally not going to be competitive, I'd be lying to myself if I didn't think I'd get caught up in the moment from time to time so I want to prepare for that.

Ol'fog, yes I have a Mendeola "Stiffy". The car is a '74 Super Beetle. I have and upper strut tie bar, and believe it or not, bolt in convertible rails. I plan to run a mid mount as well as the Rhino trans mounts.

Overkill...probably.
H2OSB

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Its all overkill... until you need it!

Lee

[H2OSB]

Bruce, re your part, it sounds like it would be wiser to drill that hole on a disassembled gearbox. Maybe I'll just stick to a factory 3 bolt front mount and use Rhino mounts on the fork ends. I plan to run a bolt in mid mount(I prefer the Fast Fab version), so maybe the front isn't necessarily.

H2OSB

[Dougy Dee]

The steel thrust plates 'usually' provide enuff MS Brg clearance to run a 2 bolt nosecone.

[Bruce2]

Bruce, re your part, it sounds like it would be wiser to drill that hole on a disassembled gearbox.

Correct.
You could drill a hole on a completed gearbox by carefully measuring the depth of the hole so you don't drill through. Then tap the blind hole. You would have to mask off the ends of the two shafts to keep the chips out of the bearings. This whole job would be difficult since you can't put the gear carrier on your drill press table.

In my car, I use stock Bus grey rubber rear trans mounts, and a mid mount with rubber bushings. My mid mount has two posts that project forward with rubber bushings on them. They are connected to the chassis by an angle plate. I am not using the stock rubber mount. Then at the rear of the engine, I use an engine hanger with a rubber block on it. For street use, this keeps things in control.
When I installed the tractor gear'd gearbox and went to the track, I had red urethane mounts front and rear, with the same engine hanger, rubber mounted. This was enough to get the front wheels off the ground.
Your torsion bar grommets are significant too. If you have 45 year old worn out bushings, you're in trouble. At least put new ones in. I have urethane inners and rubber outers.

[H2OSB]

Bruce, your set up is in a Bug? Or Bus? Would love to see a pic of your mid mount.

I have 26mm torsion bars with urethane bushings.

A lot of what I'm doing is preparing for my eventual T4 install. I built the 1641 strictly to get engine assembling experience and to use up parts I had sitting around. The only major item I purchased strictly for the 1641 T1 build was a CB cheater cam...well, and a merged header.

H2OSB

[Bruce2]

26mm bars is pretty stiff for an IRS car. why did you pick them that stiff?


This was the original plan, but I ended up not using the stock mount or the plate it bolts to. Instead I installed round cylinder rubber mounts on the posts that extended forward, then bolted a large angle plate onto them. The other leg of the angle plate attaches to the two large studs on the pan. 75 Beetle

[H2OSB]

I installed 23.5mm bars in my car from a Porsche 944 in my other 1303(very recently sold) which I could bottom out when launching or hard transitions while autocrossing. With the future t4 being about 25lbs heavier, and all that hanging out over the ass end, I thought I'd better go a bit bigger. I tried to find 25.5mm bars from a 944 turbo but they're hard to find and very expensive once found. I was fishing around on one of the Porsche message boards when one the guys said something like "Just do what we do when we want to upgrade...buy 26mm bars." So I did.

My other car had big Topline sway bars. This car I'm trying slightly stiffer springs and small sway bars. I have the 15mm rear sway bar from a 944 vs the 19mm bar on my other car.

Neat mid mount, btw.

H2OSB

[Clatter]

I heard somewhere that the CVs were a weak link.
So i went and upgraded to Bus/944 CVs, since it’s a bolt on mod.
Anyone know if this is true?
Will the CVs usually break before the trans does?
Assuming the box is properly supported..


Oh, and,
I can vouch that you need to clearance or run a plate if you put a 2-bolt nosecone on a later trans..