EZ30 + 6mt + Megasquirt into 69 KG

[RyanS]

Sorry for the project delays, life's been busy. I stared tearing into the Subaru split case 6mt today. I have to say the mechanism to shift the 6mt is really impressive. It's really odd that it's a cable shift mechanism that acts on what appears to be a traditional rod shift once it's torn down. I have to wonder if it's possible to just use a more traditional rod shift instead of a cable shift. Regardless I have a cable shifter + cables assembly out of a 2014 car.

I'm trying to plan how to plug the end of the transmission. There's a lot less material that can be cut away compared to the 5 speed. I knew from the get go there wouldn't be nearly as much to cut but I didn't anticipate it would be so much more material that needed to remain in place.

Plugging the nose of the trans will be a big challenge.

I spent some more time thinking about the plugging process after I finished recording. I'm thinking it's necessary to plug the hole where the gear flings oil, then plug the oil return hole. I think that plus the Subaplug will be adequate. I'll shoot a quick email to SubaruGears to see what they say.

Check out the video below if you want to see the way the shifter mechanism works. It's very impressive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD42AEj_NIQ

[RyanS]

Anyone have experience with aftermarket frame horns in a street car?

I'm considering some frame horns for this build. It would probably be less work for the end result I want. Lower center of gravity and further towards the front. If anyone has build threads or pictures that would be greatly appreciated.

More importantly, has anyone done aftermarket frame horns with the body still in place?

I started running through fit checking, vid below. If I want to adjust things to a nice position it looks like a lot of cut/weld.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CBlo-qYSYA

[panel]

Maybe some info here:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=149524

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=146209&start=60

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=151187

[RyanS]

Maybe some info here:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=149524

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=146209&start=60

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=151187

Hi Panel,

Thanks for the reply with the forums. That Huntress build is amazing! I've read through it once before but I forgot how much work he did to the rear end/torsion area. It looks like he ended up doing a very similar bracing/torsion delete method to what I was thinking of doing. It's such a bummer that there's no conclusion to that thread.

[RyanS]

I got a double done whammy yesterday I got the cases split and walked through the full disassembly. I documented quite a few tricks and things to make the uninstall easier. The job wasn't that difficult. I also talk a bit more about 3D printed press tooling, I'm working on that a little bit in the margins. For those following in my footsteps I highly recommend you watch the two videos for special instructions I figured out on the way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLgAX4Gz62g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCdj2CjAYAo

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[Piledriver]

For the tooth base measurement (or any other measurement the calipers or a mic cannot directly reach) you do a transfer measurement using a machinists id or od compass... even the harbor fright measurement set includes a somewhat usable version of these essential tools (link is example only)

[RyanS]

Hi Pile, The link didn't come through. I googled it though and I see how that tool could work well. However that doesn't solve the subjectivity problem of measuring the width of the base of the tooth as it's a radius'd surface.

I should mention this is the site that had the tooth measurements I was remembering. https://www.flatironstuning.com/blog/co ... -gear-sets

[RyanS]

I worked on perfecting my copper intake manifold pressing technique. This copper tube is a 1.5" coupler. I had to make this a multi stage press operation. The first operation increases the diameter of the full tube, the second operation presses the copper tube into the oval shape. I did a much better job on the multipart self disassembling press tool this time around. I still need to make some adjustments, the first operation needs a more aggressive/wider taper to open the tube diameter to be a bit wider. This press was much more difficult on the secondary operation since the tool was being engaged on the full surface area from leading edge to trailing edge since it was also trying to open the tube up to the final diameter rather than the first press video where the final diameter was already set within the factory tube itself.

Overall I'm still very impressed with the repeatability and dimensional accuracy. I have some tricks up my sleeve planned for making the intake manifold flanges with budget minded equipment.

My video on the operation goes way in depth on the process, for those who want to follow in my footsteps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFYtn0-BuXU

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[RyanS]

I'm working on a proof of concept with my small copper tester tube. I'm testing 3D printed milling jigs for the router. The intent is to have multiple plates that slide into the jig bolted to the plate to account for the different operations that need to be done to the aluminum.

The oval was ~.5mm too narrow on the widest dimension and ~.20mm to narrow on the narrowest dimension, better to be more narrow as you can always remove more material later. Overall I'm very impressed. I have a lot of changes to make for the final size jigs. I will be greatly increasing the size of the jig components to allow for a much more consistent router contact to the top surface of the plastic. The next aluminum base will be much thicker and will have a stepped surface to give a better chance of the brazing rod to do it's job sealing the two metals. I don't know when I'll crank out the manifolds, hopefully soon. I need to get supplies.

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[RyanS]

Testing out the copper to aluminum brazing/solder rod I bought on the small tester piece of 3D printer tool pressed copper tube into the 3D printer milling jig cut aluminum plate...

I'm getting much closer to putting together the 3D printed tooling to mill and press the full set of intake parts. Then it'll just be a matter of brazing it up. I used about 1/3 of the rod on the 1" copper tester tube oval side. I'll probably have to order more brazing wire.

This is some really high quality stuff. I haven't brazed anything in about 6-7 years and this stuff flowed incredibly well.

I highly recommend this stuff for this specific application.

https://lucasmilhaupt.com/EN/Products/AL822.htm

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[panel]

Why are you going away from the factory intake ?

[RyanS]

Because ITB's are neat lol.

The real reason is I don't want to deal with re routing the front belt components with a reversed intake which would require complex bracketry and non standard fan belts. I want to preserve the alt and the AC at a minimum. I haven't thought up something neat to do with the power steering pump yet, however turning it into an air compressor crossed my mind. I don't want to cut into the luggage compartment for the factory direction intake. I also want a challenge and I want to teach people you can make complex parts with minimalist tooling + a 3D printer if you put your mind to it.

[panel]

Ah , ITB's. Wonder if you chose the right material that you could 3D print your own intakes ?

[RyanS]

You can, with the correct material. It's a really complex material problem for at home printing. There's leakage problems for one, heat warpage/sag, gasoline solvent is another problem. All these problems are solvable with expensive unobtanium print material and upgrades to the printer to handle special high temp gasoline resistant plastics... There's another problem though. The guys that figured it out aren't sharing what they did.

Check out the facebook screenshots on this link. It's possible, but I don't have it figured out yet. It would be much easier to use lost wax/PLA style casting but that's a fairly well settled science by now. Plus I haven't seen anyone developing 3D printed milling jigs yet so I wanted to explore that field. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewt ... ?p=9607135

I could always just have an inconel intake printed like Papadakis did. $$$ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jbn0ah3u9E

[panel]

I did see Papadakis's vid. Wow , eh !