Going under the knife
- vwfye
- Posts: 1008
- Joined: Sun May 21, 2000 12:01 am
Re: Going under the knife
Mine is horizontal... i never worry about it. I just crank with the coil wire off and the extra oil in the case.
- Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Going under the knife
Pulled the pump today and flat sanded the face and cover. Found this on the bench when I was cleaning up.
Max
Max
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- Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
More progress. New oil filter mount and plumbing. The wood block will be replaced with aluminum.
And here's the CLT sensor. Closed element because this area tends to get dirty.
Max
And here's the CLT sensor. Closed element because this area tends to get dirty.
Max
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- Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
Test fit the exhaust. First problem is that the pump-to-filter line was right where the hot-air duct needs to be. With the addition of another fitting I was able to re-route the line.
Max
Max
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- Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
Next problem was that the filter is still impinging on the exhaust. Looks like I need another 3/4" or so.
I could make the (prototype wood) spacer a little thicker, but the fittings on top of the filter adaptor will get closer to the mustache bar. Need some longer bolts there too.
I could also make the 1/4" steel plate longer to lower the filter adaptor. But the oil lines need to stay where they are so I'll need a couple more an8 couplings (or taller ones). Home Depot calls those 1/2" FL x 1/2" FIP.
Will probably do a little of both.
Max
I could make the (prototype wood) spacer a little thicker, but the fittings on top of the filter adaptor will get closer to the mustache bar. Need some longer bolts there too.
I could also make the 1/4" steel plate longer to lower the filter adaptor. But the oil lines need to stay where they are so I'll need a couple more an8 couplings (or taller ones). Home Depot calls those 1/2" FL x 1/2" FIP.
Will probably do a little of both.
Max
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Re: Going under the knife
Max, why the soft line?
Not trying to be picky here but based on what I think I see and the potential (final) mounting location of the oil filter, wouldn't a hard line, formed after the mount is made and everything located, be safer and not want to flex around as could happen with soft line(s)?
Soft lines have their place as do hard lines and sometimes/usually what comes out as a final design is based on the finished mounting/locating of the whole system.
Just some thoughts.
Lee
Not trying to be picky here but based on what I think I see and the potential (final) mounting location of the oil filter, wouldn't a hard line, formed after the mount is made and everything located, be safer and not want to flex around as could happen with soft line(s)?
Soft lines have their place as do hard lines and sometimes/usually what comes out as a final design is based on the finished mounting/locating of the whole system.
Just some thoughts.
Lee
- Max Welton
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- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Going under the knife
Yeah this may be a good spot for hard lines after everything is located.
Before this all my filters have been attached to bumper brackets so soft lines were the way to go. And I've never had a problem using them.
Max
Before this all my filters have been attached to bumper brackets so soft lines were the way to go. And I've never had a problem using them.
Max
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Re: Going under the knife
Max, sometimes I use the term KISS which is a joking way of saying keep things as simple as you can (ignore the second "S" in KISS) but still functional and be sure of the decision. Sometimes just getting an idea to look at something differently can really change the way things are going to be done.Max Welton wrote: ↑Mon Sep 27, 2021 2:21 pm Yeah this may be a good spot for hard lines after everything is located.
Before this all my filters have been attached to bumper brackets so soft lines were the way to go. And I've never had a problem using them.
Max
As you know I am not a big fan of braided metal lines for several reasons but the other types of soft braided lines can also age and harden from heat and movement and can be hard to check for blockages. Metal tube also have weaknesses but they are easier to discover... usually!
After 34 years of checking other's work I sometimes "flow" into something rather then tell them to do/change something (Company, Country and International rules we had to follow but sometimes and just looking at things another time just like you are thinking about now (I wasn't an Engineer but a Drafter then a Tech Designer plus I checked of other's work like mine was checked by both another checkers and the Engineers (there was a lot more to this but that is another thing). "Flowing into something" (kind of like a mockup) is often the best way to do things as one learns and usually will keep it as it is their idea.
I also do this to myself as I keep thinking there has to be a better way than the last idea I had. One of the "offs" on this it things don't always get done as one get's thinking too much .
Your work on your toy is looking good... keep it up for sure.
Lee
- Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
38 years as a systems engineer in space systems software here. Intimately familiar with the KISS principal. Software is a really tough place to keep things simple. Good test people are worth their weight in gold.
Because "Anything that can fail, will fail."
I appreciate your input!
Max
Because "Anything that can fail, will fail."
I appreciate your input!
Max
- Max Welton
- Posts: 3023
- Joined: Mon Jun 03, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Going under the knife
Another maxim from the software realm: "Always plan to build a prototype ... and throw it away. If you're doing it right you will anyways."
The problem with that is sometimes you don't get to throw the prototype away. You get stuck with it. One of the reasons I retired early.
In this case my rusty old 68 was the "mule" where I learned about Megasquirt for the first time. It was my prototype. I literally threw it away. I'm applying many things I learned on the 68 to this build. I am getting temporarily "stuck" with the stock type-3 intake. But the plan is to update the engine to a 2110 at some point and this intake will be replaced with DCNF-based throttle bodies.
Max
The problem with that is sometimes you don't get to throw the prototype away. You get stuck with it. One of the reasons I retired early.
In this case my rusty old 68 was the "mule" where I learned about Megasquirt for the first time. It was my prototype. I literally threw it away. I'm applying many things I learned on the 68 to this build. I am getting temporarily "stuck" with the stock type-3 intake. But the plan is to update the engine to a 2110 at some point and this intake will be replaced with DCNF-based throttle bodies.
Max
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Re: Going under the knife
Because "Anything that can fail, will fail." and to finish it... "at the most inappropriate time."
I worked in Aircraft mostly in interiors/passenger accommodations' but not just there either. It doesn't sound like it but it is more complicated than one would normally think.
It is one of the reasons I did not go with modern tech as it was getting too complicated. Off-road, if you can't fix it you are stuck and tows are EXPENSIVE!.
Anyway, keep at it and don't let little things stop you and your project.
Lee
I worked in Aircraft mostly in interiors/passenger accommodations' but not just there either. It doesn't sound like it but it is more complicated than one would normally think.
It is one of the reasons I did not go with modern tech as it was getting too complicated. Off-road, if you can't fix it you are stuck and tows are EXPENSIVE!.
Anyway, keep at it and don't let little things stop you and your project.
Lee
- vwfye
- Posts: 1008
- Joined: Sun May 21, 2000 12:01 am
Re: Going under the knife
I use fuel and oil lines that are SFI rated for use in NHRA as they have to pass burst, heat and fatigue testing beyond what other versions do. Yes, it is more $, but the piece of mind is there. Both my current type 3 have it with correct fittings as comon rubber lines are not approved and braided stainless is ridiculous to afford or build.
The following come to mind:
Russell Twist-Lok Hose
Summit Twist-Tite
Jegs Push-Loc
The following come to mind:
Russell Twist-Lok Hose
Summit Twist-Tite
Jegs Push-Loc
- GS guy
- Posts: 909
- Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Going under the knife
Max - can you not just locate the entire filter on the other (front) side of the bar? Meaning rotate it 180* with the mounting now to the rear side of the bar with hoses & filter towards the front? More than once I've had to relocate items and associated plumbing/fittings/mounts/etc. to "make it work". Often many many times to find the right combo. AN stuff further complicates the situation with the bulk of the fittings and set fitting/hose end angles!
Jeff
Jeff
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Re: Going under the knife
Since I wasn't familiar with the Russell and the Summit hose couplers I looked them up. They are similar versions of the Mil-spec AN hoses and should be OK.
The Jegs "Push-loc" hose is one of several versions of hose that should work very well and are simpler and cheaper to deal with but do have the possibility of sagging over long straight clamped into place runs due to gravity and aging. Everything has it's + & -'s (pluses and minuses ).
Lee