The Aufgeladen Ghia

[Ol'fogasaurus]

IMG_2653 - Copy.JPG

When I was talking about clamping these are a couple of the styles of clamps I have used, but not the only style. I also put some materials I used to be clamped to aid the flat bending of the flange.

The stock shown ranges from flat stock (not shown) to square tube, angle iron, U-shaped stock and other things. The stock is more of a help to keep the bend straight (no off-sets and different pulls by more than one tool) and even.

Bending up or down I would suspect would be a "amount of room" you have to work with.

What you got bent looks pretty good and the wrapping of it with the wrap should help as heat is a factor in the flanging also.

Now... on to the next problem!

Lee

[xzener]

I actually borrowed a tool like yours (on the left) back when I was doing body work. Luckily I have a friend who has most tools needed to get ANY job done. By the looks of your pictures, you're that guy too. Pliers, breaker bars, MIG wilder... You name it. Lately, since I really don't have anything to buy for the Ghia (I'm sure that will change soon), I've been buying tools here and there. The sheet metal break being the most recent. I'd like to get more into metal fabrication, as I really enjoy doing it... But don't have anything else to fab, these tins were it. For now.

Yep... On to my crank trigger loss issue... I know...

[Ol'fogasaurus]

When I retired back in 2000 I thought that I was a free man but... knot (a pun and both spellings of the word would be correct in this occasion)! There is always something that needs one's attention but, to be perfectly honest, I did learn a lot while working. Some of what I had learned sitting in meetings or discussions (sometimes heated) at my desk (drafting table) came back to me for things I needed to do.

Keep at it, things are looking good.

Lee

[xzener]

Alright... Screw this Joeblow piece of shite sensor. I'm gonna fabricate a different approach to this. Bought a new sensor. It's for modern VW's. Should be able to design an adjustable mount for it. Will update the thread after I receive the new sensor.

[panel]

Is it a Hall or VR ? Will it still talk to your ECU ?

[xzener]

It's a hall sensor. I just modified my current mount to make it a bit more adjustable. Setting the sensor a 1/16" closer to the center of the crank pulley. I now have a more solid signal and have had the engine idling this morning. No more sudden stalls. Now... back to tuning the idle and lower rpms to get me on the road to auto tune. Looking at my VE table, I have an area where it's dumping fuel and bogging the engine.

[panel]

Well that's good news. You've been fighting with that mount for awhile now.

[xzener]

It sure has, nice to have it running well again. A bit off subject, decided to try and get my tachometer in the dash working. I bought an item off eBay, but it didn't work, so I made my own. Im sure you've all seen these... its basically a coil that takes the signal from the ECU and sends it to the tachometer as a useful tach signal. I bought the needed 2N5551 transistor and 1k ohm resistor (actually bought 50 each) and soldered it to a common 12v automotive relay. Hopefully this one works better than the eBay one, otherwise it might be the diode I placed inline with the signal wire to the tachometer maybe. My overall goal is to buy a nice Autometer one.

Here is the schematic I found online...

Untitled.png

Here is the relay with the transistor and resistor soldered on. I removed the switch part of the relay so it doesn't click anymore...

PXL_20211014_002351216.jpg

Here it is complete with the cover back on...

PXL_20211014_003306915.jpg

[xzener]

I received my new crank sensor... Seems to be a VR sensor. Will keep this as a backup if my hall sensor gives me more grief.

[blue thunder]

Are you using a hall effect sensor as crank trigger? There are not many hall effect sensors that can handle high frequencies, so if you have multiple trigger teeth, you could lose signal at a certain rpm. A variable reluctor (VR) sensor is way more suitable for those applications. Just my cents . Love your fab skills and great project....

[xzener]

Thanks Blue Thunder. Yes, I have a hall sensor with 36-1 crank trigger provided with the EFI kit I purchased from Joeblow... Not sure why JB would supply his setup with hall if VR is more suitable. I have had nothing but problems with the hall sensor. Like I said, if the issues persist, I will be changing out the sensor.

Question:
If I were to change out to the VR sensor, would I need to rewire the connector? As is, I have modified the connector for the VR sensor (which is very similar to the hall connector) to fit the connector for my wire harness. The connector pins are labeled the same. As per JB documentation, the hall sensor connector is as follows; 1 - 5v, 2 - hall (sense?), 3 - GND. I know the VR sensors are VR+, VR-, GND aren't they? Would I need to rewire the harness connector to the ECU?

[panel]

VR just has two wires.

[panel]

Just buy one of Marios kits and don't look back

https://thedubshop.com/products/fuel-in ... k-trigger/

[xzener]

I already have the 36-1 installed on the JB specific crank pulley. All I'm missing is the VR sensor and fabricating a mount. Looking at JB's ECU connector diagram, there is a VR1, and VR2 on pins 6 and 7 respectfully... Looks as though the connector would require a rewire to accommodate. I will try to contact Mick and get clarification, he's not available on FB messenger it seems.

[blue thunder]

When using a VR sensor, it is wise to use a shielded cable with two strands (VR+ and VR-). Best is to connect the shield to ground close to the ECU. Try to keep the wire as far away as possible from HT leads. Furthermore it is recommended to make a bracket for the VR sensor with which it is easy to adjust the VR sensor gap. Finding the correct gap is essential. Good luck!