Type 4 for My Ghia

[jwmorris]

Hello everyone!

I have been holding onto this engine for over 10 years. I finally took the time to pull some pistons to check out the inside of the case. I'm considering a mild rebuild, gaskets, ring, cam bearings. I would do a Cali conversion from there. I am really interested in Ray and Piledriver's comments on how well a stock 1.7 drives while giving great gas mileage. I am also afraid I won't be satisfied with the performance. I plan to use Dellorto carbs, the car is Karmann Ghia. Considering the condition of the engine what would you recommend?

[jwmorris]

More Pictures:

[jwmorris]

More

[jwmorris]

Lifters...

[jwmorris]

To my eyes everything looks to be in good shape. I broke a ring during disassembly so those will all be replaced. I am also a little confused on the heads. The part number indicates 2 liter bus but the combustion chamber is for the 1.7.

['77 Westy]

022-101-372 is a 1700 head with 39.3mm inlet and 33mm exhaust valves.

[jwmorris]

Thank you!

[Piledriver]

Stick with the original plan and just freshen up and try it out.
Make sure to check ex valve guide clearance, with new ex valves, the valve stretch and narrow down at least as much as the guides wear in many cases.

If not enough power, have the heads opened and stick some 96s in it.

Stock it is likely to have 30-50% moarpowa than the original engine...
... even with the original valves 1700 T4 heads flow 160cfm @28mm Hg.

[jwmorris]

Thanks Piledriver!

[jwmorris]

I pulled the other head, and a rod tonight. There is some damage to the case. Did a piston make contact here? The head on that side was loose. I am not sure if I had loosened it when I checked the pistons heads years ago. There is also some scuffing on both pistons on that side. The piston skirts do not appear to be damaged. I think my mild rebuild just got more complicated.

[Piledriver]

Piston never gets that far down... looks great!
Do Not Replace the rod bearings just because, the installed ones look great and are better than anything made today.

Pick up a moly coating kit from Techline in Waxahatchie Texas for the bearings and piston skirts, and dry buff for the jugs (rings)
Aircooled.net also sells a seating compound for the rings that may help new rings seat in old bores better.

One thing sometimes forgotten is cleaning the ring grooves... buy a can of berrymans chemdip for that, do not use the mechanical ring groove cleaners they sell, esp not the handy broken ring. You can also have them cleaned with CO2 or walnut hulls etc, Harbor Fright even sells them and a decent blast unit cheap, I picked one up to decarbonize some DI intake valves but it has already seen duty on other stuff.

[Piledriver]

Also: save your lifters and have them reqround and coated if using a new cam or if you mixed them up.
SLR used to grind and parkerize a set for $35, but you'd have to check prices as its been a decade...

[jwmorris]

Thank you, sir! I really do appreciate the sanity check and guidance.

[Steve Arndt]

Also: save your lifters and have them reqround and coated if using a new cam or if you mixed them up.
SLR used to grind and parkerize a set for $35, but you'd have to check prices as its been a decade...

SLR is no longer around I think he passed away or retired. SL1 Shag Leone bought the equipment and is going to keep the product line alive.

[jwmorris]

So sorry to hear of his passing.


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