What to build with parts I have?

[Kezq]

Looking to put a larger engine together as a project for my 1303s, but lost on what crank to purchase to go with the parts I already have to use.
Not looking for a drag car performance, just some fun with quicker acceleration, with a bit more punch for motorway driving……a step up from the stock 1600 I have.
Don’t mind having to sort a bit of case work, and realise choosing bigger cranks come with their own issues, which I’m happy to deal with also, but reluctant to wander too far from the parts listed below if possible?
Hoping for a bit of advice which route to to go down….1776 or 1905, maybe more?
Based in UK

AS21 Case savers 90.5 full flow with first cut align bore
New Mahle Forged 90.5 STD ‘A’ B&P
New Engle 110 or 120 cam, I have both
New Cut to length 3/8 Chromoly push
Scat 1.1:25 rockers ball adj
New Scat I beam 5.394 ARP rods
New CB 044 heads stock
New Engle HD lifters
New Engle HD springs
36 IDF carbs 28mm or 32mm Weber chokes, I have both
Merged 1 5/8 header
Lightened flywheel

Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers Kez

[Bruce.m]

It’s really personal preference & BHP / budget question.

I’d personally stick with 1776 since you have most of the parts, with an aftermarket CB performance crank (picked up on a black Friday deal if you don’t mind waiting). Spend money on a good balance of crank, flywheel, rods, clutch plate & pulley. With a change of spring you could go for a 6K+ Rev limit.

But plenty would skip straight to CC via a bigger stroke & be content to mess about with deck heights, barrel spacers etc. Certainly enables good torque.

Also, the heads are worth time or budget to get the best from them. Do they have a decent multi-angle valve seat cut?

[Kezq]

Thanks for the advice Bruce..
Tbh, I originally set out to build a strong 1776….
but my juices started flowing when a mate talked about bigger cranks.
Maybe you’re right….and I should follow my original plans?
Heads are straight out the box CB 044…..but I’m not frightened to play with port and polish if advised properly.
Had zero experience with larger throw cranks, but always open to going down that road if it means I can do so without buying different rods or b&p’s.

[V8Nate]

I can't remember exactly but I'm wanting to say you could go up to a 74mm stroke crank with the a pistons and be safe

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[Kezq]

Yes, thanks….
I was wondering about the 74x90.5 as this would give 1904
I guess some shim work and working out deck heights/compressions would be def in order?

[V8Nate]

Most definitely, you could either buy an assortment of shims or wait until you get the crank and see how your deck height measures then go from there and measures the cc's of your head to dial in your c/r

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[Kezq]

Any recommendation on crank manufacturers?
Been chatting with DPR….but the shipping to the UK is just astronomical.
CB, AA?….not sure if Scat do a 74?

[V8Nate]

I have ran aa without any issues(chromoly 80mm stroke)

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[Kezq]

I’ll take a look
Thanks

[V8Nate]

I also purchased it on ebay, at that time it was cheaper than through aapistons.com

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[Bruce.m]

If you buy from heritage if there is any defects it’s low hassle to return. The AA 74mm crank is about £500 currently. With a 10% discount code that’s £450, or if you hold off for the sale you’d get 20-25% discount.

If you import, you’ll be paying vat +duty. I order stuff direct from CB & CIP1 but ideally keep the parts value under $160 to fall underneath the duty threshold (£135 parts value). Once you are into duty zone, it’s a percentage of the full cost including shipping.

[Kezq]

If you buy from heritage if there is any defects it’s low hassle to return. The AA 74mm crank is about £500 currently. With a 10% discount code that’s £450, or if you hold off for the sale you’d get 20-25% discount.

If you import, you’ll be paying vat +duty. I order stuff direct from CB & CIP1 but ideally keep the parts value under $160 to fall underneath the duty threshold (£135 parts value). Once you are into duty zone, it’s a percentage of the full cost including shipping.

Oh my thoughts exactly….the duty and shipping on USA cranks virtually doubles the retail price.
Thanks for the heads up on the Heritage route….def makes sense

[Kezq]

Looking to put a larger engine together as a project for my 1303s, but lost on what crank to purchase to go with the parts I already have to use.
Not looking for a drag car performance, just some fun with quicker acceleration, with a bit more punch for motorway driving……a step up from the stock 1600 I have.
Don’t mind having to sort a bit of case work, and realise choosing bigger cranks come with their own issues, which I’m happy to deal with also, but reluctant to wander too far from the parts listed below if possible?
Hoping for a bit of advice which route to to go down….1776 or 1905, maybe more?
Based in UK

AS21 Case savers 90.5 full flow with first cut align bore
New Mahle Forged 90.5 STD ‘A’ B&P
New Engle 110 or 120 cam, I have both
New Cut to length 3/8 Chromoly push
Scat 1.1:25 rockers ball adj
New Scat I beam 5.394 ARP rods
New CB 044 heads stock
New Engle HD lifters
New Engle HD springs
36 IDF carbs 28mm or 32mm Weber chokes, I have both
Merged 1 1/2” ID header
Lightened flywheel

Any advice would be appreciated.
Cheers Kez

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Opinion: On a highway driven bug I wouldn't consider a lightened flywheel as it is easier to loose the power given to it so your foot is probably going to be working more on the "loud pedal". Also, the light flywheel can cause more "slipping of the clutch" when starting to move the car especially if the car is more like a heavy stock vehicle.

Lee

[Kezq]

Thanks Lee…..
Valid points taken onboard.