Hi all, Im new here but need some help. I have a 1969 VW engine that I have pulled the jugs and pistons off of. I want to Flush out the case but I dont want to split the case. Any suggestions on products and techniques?
Thanks Tim
Clean Engine
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Re: Clean Engine
Curious why do you think it needs flushed out?
Get a cheap USB borescope camera and have a look.
For ~$100 you can get a full HD stand alone from Vevor with photo/movie capture, and 360 degree articulated tip, 6.4mm bore.
Mine has paid for itself at least a dozen times, and not just on the car, it can go fish in drains, the articulated tip combined with a simple hook (I stole from another USB camera setup I have) can grab stuff easily, also can have a magnet attached.
Usually no need to flush it out unless you got goop in it from cleaning the cylinder or pushrod tube seats, and then I'd probably look at stuffing rags in it to fill the holes before cleaning.
If it does need it, run something non-explosive through it like diesel fuel or water and simple green, with the oil pickup drain plate off. Try not to flush anything into the cam area...
Caution: If the flywheel comes off, the distributor and drive comes out first, and only goes back in after resetting the crank end play. (doing otherwise can easily destroy the little brass worm gear that drives the distributor)
If you use a water/soap combo for the rinse, I suggest hot water with a bit of simple green, chase with 91% rubbing alcohol to get the water out. (that is very flammable)
Also note the traditionally used case sealants (permatex#2, aviation Permatex #3, similar) are not "forever" sealants like the better anaerobic Permatex 518 or Locktite 518
(same stuff, actually same company, different brand)
...and the anerobics are a lot better to work with. That little tube goes a long way.
(get the medium 50ml size, put in ziplock back and keep in back of fridge, keeps for ages)
Get a cheap USB borescope camera and have a look.
For ~$100 you can get a full HD stand alone from Vevor with photo/movie capture, and 360 degree articulated tip, 6.4mm bore.
Mine has paid for itself at least a dozen times, and not just on the car, it can go fish in drains, the articulated tip combined with a simple hook (I stole from another USB camera setup I have) can grab stuff easily, also can have a magnet attached.
Usually no need to flush it out unless you got goop in it from cleaning the cylinder or pushrod tube seats, and then I'd probably look at stuffing rags in it to fill the holes before cleaning.
If it does need it, run something non-explosive through it like diesel fuel or water and simple green, with the oil pickup drain plate off. Try not to flush anything into the cam area...
Caution: If the flywheel comes off, the distributor and drive comes out first, and only goes back in after resetting the crank end play. (doing otherwise can easily destroy the little brass worm gear that drives the distributor)
If you use a water/soap combo for the rinse, I suggest hot water with a bit of simple green, chase with 91% rubbing alcohol to get the water out. (that is very flammable)
Also note the traditionally used case sealants (permatex#2, aviation Permatex #3, similar) are not "forever" sealants like the better anaerobic Permatex 518 or Locktite 518
(same stuff, actually same company, different brand)
...and the anerobics are a lot better to work with. That little tube goes a long way.
(get the medium 50ml size, put in ziplock back and keep in back of fridge, keeps for ages)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.