Piledriver wrote: ↑Tue Apr 01, 2025 4:30 am
The areas that do not cause change should be ignored when setting the upper an lower limits...
Otherwise Murphy says the ecu will try to use those areas with no effect... PID loops hate dead spots.
Exactly.......
There is an exercise you go through to determine the dead spots in the idle valve movement. It takes a little time to figure that out but it is worth doing to get a reliable setup.
I went through that a year or so ago but remembering how to do it is a problem since I don't do it every day. A lot of the adjustments are only needed in the beginning and once set never change.
It takes some reading and studying to become familiar with it but it isn't real difficult.
Stripped66 wrote:The point wasn't to argue air temps with the current world record holder, but to dispel the claim that the K03 is wrapped up at 150 HP. It's not.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Gonna tap the breaks and get this heat exchanger fitted before further tuning. I've tried two different heat exchangers... Third ones the charm... Unfortunately, this one is coming from China. April 15-21st estimated delivery. So I built a wooden mockup, the advertisement had good dimensions. Since I've raised the decklid, gonna fabricate a scoop to force air directly into the heat exchanger. I've noticed, while idling, air is really being sucked into the raised part of the decklid. So I think right above the dog house is the perfect location for the heat exchanger.
First prototype of the scoop... It basically reroutes the air across the (soon to be) heat exchanger.
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Ok, quick update. Scoop is done (see it in the picture). Have the 1.5" spacers for the decklid. Received the heat exchanger... It fits perfectly. Only issue, unfortunately the AN10 lines are going to restrict water flow going from 3/4" ID hose to 5/8" through the radiator and into the tank. I have 3/4" OD bungs on order... My welder says he'll do it no problem.
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Decklid 1.5" spacers mounted. Need to buy a decklid latch to customize, gonna need to adjust the mounting position a bit. Perfect time for me to buy a welder and have some fun with it. Mounting brackets fabricated, heat exchanger mounted... I really like the AN fittings, gonna go ahead and upgrade them to AN12 in order to keep solid flow. All needed parts on order.
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Last edited by xzener on Fri Apr 18, 2025 7:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
xzener wrote: ↑Tue Apr 15, 2025 5:12 pm
Ok, quick update. Scoop is done (see it in the picture). Have the 1.5" spacers for the decklid. Received the heat exchanger... It fits perfectly. Only issue, unfortunately the AN10 lines are going to restrict water flow going from 3/4" ID hose to 5/8" through the radiator and into the tank. I have 3/4" OD bungs on order... My welder says he'll do it no problem.
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Honestly the 5/8" is probably just fine. I'd save my pennies personally, but maybe that is just me.
The setup looks good! Get out and start driving it!
To reiterate what Chip said, that little electric water pump is only going to move so much water.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Ok, so the new AN12 180 degree fitting is much larger than the AN10 one. Unfortunately, the mounts I made won't work. Refabbed the mounting brackets. Plumbed the lines and primmed the system. I have lost a bit of flow. Before the heat exchanger was installed, I was getting about 216gph flow. I am now only getting about 180gph. I googled it...
"A flow rate of 180 GPH (gallons per hour) is generally considered a good intercooler flow rate for many applications, including most performance applications. It provides sufficient cooling capacity without being excessive and causing unnecessary pressure drop."
180gph is plenty of flow for my application. You guys are right, 5/8" lines would have been fine... Was just trying to limit the amount of hose size changes.
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That makes sense... I will look into it. After initial power on, the system quickly primed. Was hoping the sudden rush of water would push all the air out. I wonder if something like this would help?
Something like that. Or, potentially you could just drill & tap the left side of the radiator for a small bolt with sealing washer or O-ring under the bolt head. If the ali is thick enough to be tapped.
Thanks Bruce. I think I may just do that. I have the heat exchanger level ATM. Perhaps if I angle it slightly, the air would be easier to remove. While I was testing it yesterday, I did notice air entering one of the AN fittings... Cured that simply tightening the fitting.
Found a few on Amazon. Going to monitor the IAT's before making the mod.
Mounting brackets fabricated, heat exchanger mounted... I really like the AN fittings, gonna go ahead and upgrade them to AN12 in order to keep solid flow. All needed parts on order.
