Adding a 3rd brake light?

[letmeehan]

I was told that I would save $$$ on insurance if I install a 3rd brake light. I already have a roll bar so I could just mount it to that (I hardly ever have the top on). My main question is about the wiring etc., any thoughts? Thanks Joe

[Bob Ingman]

Seems as if you would have the choice of going to the sourse (master cylinder) or tying into existing brake light wire at taillights. Either way you must not avoid the fused portion of the wiring. I`m basically a wiring moron so hopefully someone with actual knowlege will help out here. I can do OK on my own stuff with my redneck duct tape methods but then its another thing to advise someone else to do it with anything less that entirely correct procedure. Good luck. Bob Ingman

[BobMiller]

Because THINGs don't share the turn signal circuit with the stop lights it's an easy add-in. Pick up a package of "trailer wire taps" at the auto supply store. They let you splice an extra wire into an existing wire without cutting. Splice into either of the stop light wires in the engine compartment and run one wire to the new center stop light. The lamp will be grounded when you mount it to the roll bar. I have seen several attached just below the center of the top edge. And yes, you will be fuse protected...

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1966 MANX SR2 (Karma Coachworks), 1974 VW THING

[Marc]

Those 3M crimp-on tap-offs are not real reliable (especially in a damp environment) but they are an easy way to tap into an existing wire. Silver'77 (my son) is probably recalling the nights I spent cursing at them when trying to get trailer lights functional for the tow-home from the track. For something as non-critical as this they'll certainly do but a more sanitary way would be to solder-splice the new wire in, or put it into a new connector right at either junction block between the main harness & the taillight pigtail.

[Marc]

No disagreement, Bob, I think I said the same thing.
When I was in the Navy (as an ET) I was sent to a week-long class where we were taught how to solder to NASA specs (maximum bond with minimum weight being the goal). It seems odd to me that submarines & spaceships use solder and Navy planes use crimps. "The right way, the wrong way, and the NAVY way", eh?

[BobMiller]

Actually it was the Lockheed way, but your point is well taken. I've always wondered why it took a week to teach Navy ET's & AT's how to solder...(LOL)

I think that the mil-spec mechanical crimp is stronger, but does not have the better electrical bond that soldering provides. On 12 volt auto systems I would go for the strength. All that being said, MOST auto supply connectors and crimpers aren't worth bothering with. I still use my mil-spec crimpers and connectors on critical connections.

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1966 MANX SR2 (Karma Coachworks), 1974 VW THING

[This message has been edited by BobMiller (edited 02-06-2003).]

[This message has been edited by BobMiller (edited 02-06-2003).]

[SEMPER FI FOREVER]

Strange discussion, in 25 years of Marine Corps electronics and 5 with NASA, I have never seen a crimp used where solder was feasable; stronger, better conductivity and most important, vibration proof.

[Bob Ingman]

BUMP!!!

[BobMiller]

Like Chubb Tubb say. Do that meen tat the Veep goin be your maginary VDUBYER? LOL

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1966 MANX SR2 (Karma Coachworks), 1974 VW THING

[This message has been edited by Chubb Tubb (edited 02-08-2003).]

[Bob Ingman]

Bob, no more so than a Manx sr2. I think of it as a Thing with a short wheel base. Remember it is not on a VW floor pan. So is short but hac VW steering ,beam instrumentation ,wiring,heat, shifter,transaxle, and engine. Its a VW w/funny shape. Good luck. Bob Ingman