Gotta few questions

thetwisteddragon · Post by **thetwisteddragon** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 10:42 pm

I was wondering, which is better? I have the option of going with body filler to finish off my body work on my car, or go with the classic lead. I know lead requires more work, and it will out last the car. But which, in the long run, would be better for my car?

Does anyone have or know a place I can get plans for a body rotisserie that will fit my 70 Beetle's body?

What work is there required in prepping fiberglass parts, like car craft fenders.

Thanks.

davebuckholts · Post by **davebuckholts** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 5:12 am

I have plans on my site for the rotisserrie I built for my fastback. You should be able to make some mods to make it work for a beetle. Made rust repair and bodywork a lot easier.
No clue as to the lead thing..........but IMO, if the bodywork is done corectly you're not going to use that much filler anyway, so a good quality filler should suffice.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1911/

Dave

Just took a look at my site.....been a while since I've done anything to it. The rotisserrie plans aren't up anymore......I'll fix it in a few minutes.

mpernice · Post by **mpernice** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 2:20 am

Body filler is fine and easier to work with. The tools required are inexpensive. They key is to do it properly. Pull/bump dents as much as possible. Keep thickness to no more than a 1/16". If you need more filler to make it even pull the dent more or replace the section. Then, apply a thin skim coat of 'glazing putty'. Also, ALWAYS use filler on bare, clean, non-rusted metal.

I would prefer lead but you need specialized tools and need to know how to work it. Reworking lead is a lot harder than filler.

JM2C,

Mel

theo_m24 · Post by **theo_m24** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 9:17 am

My First Dub in high School was a Bondo Monster.. Not that it looked bad but it didn't look good.. Less filler the better in my opinion

hillbilly · Post by **hillbilly** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 2:35 pm

You would perfer to use lead untill you realized that it took seconds off your e.t.

Lead is dead and is dead weight.Bondo is not so bad to use.Stay away from white lightning as it is hard as a rock to sand.Stay away from Glaze putty as it is garbage...use a two part polyester putty.Let your bondo harden completely. Don't use a cheese grater as it causes problems.put it on smooth so it doesn;t look like its been put on with a fork

when trying to determin your highs and lows you will find it usefull if you close your eyes a bit.....really trust me on this it helps

Bill

thetwisteddragon · Post by **thetwisteddragon** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 3:03 pm

Thanks for the help dave

, do you know the rotisserie plans page is of a transmission and engine

? I just not sure if you know or not, it might just be my computer though. I thought using a bit of filler wouldn't hurt. Lately I've had people trying to force the idea that Bondo is like a time bomb, and in a few years it will seperate, no matter how little you use or how clean you are with it. I know better, I just needed reasurance. With that all said, does anyone know how to prep gel-coated fiberglass for primer? Cause I sure don't.

hillbilly · Post by **hillbilly** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 6:36 pm

Just use a good wax and grease remover first to get rid of any release agents and repeat after sanding before primer.Stay away from laquer primmer.Nothing realy sticks to it ...except laquer.(If you are using these off road consider a second panel up inside to prevent stone bruises from the inside)as far as sanding grit it depends on what you are planning to do ...any where between180 and 400 grit works again depends on what your

doing.hope this helps....Bill

thetwisteddragon · Post by **thetwisteddragon** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 8:27 pm

Its going to be for the road so I don't have to worry about that. Thanks for the info, I thought it required alot more.

mez · Post by **mez** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 9:21 pm

thetwisteddragon wrote:Lately I've had people trying to force the idea that Bondo is like a time bomb, and in a few years it will separate, no matter how little you use or how clean you are with it. I know better, I just needed reassurance.

I don't know... one of the split buses I'm buying has some bondo that's separated already. Of course, it's around 1/2 inch thick and the bus has been in the woods for the past decade or two, but it's separating.

hillbilly · Post by **hillbilly** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 10:54 pm

You don't have to do any more to them than that.You are talking new fenders are you not ? I would be more concerned about colour ie: straigtness and overall finish.....look at them in the light before you sand them any wave or ripple or other flaw (and they will have them)that you see now under a over head floresent light will show up even more when its painted.you may want to work theese areas first before you prime or you can use your primer and a guide coat to pick them out. Again depends on how far you want to go.
Bondo............great stuff..not like the first stuff that came out .

.now if you drop it on the floor you can take a piece of concrete with it when knocking it off with a hammer

It is good when used as intended (to smooth out straightened metal, not filler up like at the gas pump. also as on the side of the van body stress takes its toll also seems like a hack job to me...half an inch....

over top of paint to boot I bet (not a real bad thing in some cases)I restored a 55 ford t-bird.(can I say that here)23 years ago and the guy drives It every year for 6 months and It looks fine the rust never came back and the bondo work (and there was a fair bit ) never sunk pealed seperated or any of the bad things you hear about it.There was even a hole we fixed with duraglass in a valance /filler panel that he was going to replace later(and didn't)And it was fine no sighn of it failing. In that case the whole body was Roughed out sand blasted epoxy primed and the filler was put right over top of the epoxy no grinding allowed..this is the way it is done on high end cars and also for aluminum (think I can't spell)
sorry to ramble

Bill

adrenalnjunky · Post by **adrenalnjunky** » Sun Jun 15, 2003 10:16 am

As for rotisserie plans --- check out this month's issue of Super Rod -- (I know it isnt a VW magazine, but the street rodder mags seem to have some of the best how to articles on body work)

Page100 -- there are no "plans" but rather a really good description of the setup and good pictures--you should be able to build something similar with these plans in your head.