Marc wrote:I don't know where Joe got the idea that a `74 distributor was an 009 (perhaps from some conversation where it was being compared to one - the centrifugal curves are similar) but this points out the folly of referring to distributors by the last 3 digits only. The centrifugal-advance-only distributor everyone means when they say "009" is a 0 231 178 009...the stock vacuum-only unit used in 1966/67 was a 0 231 137 009.
Could be someone was looking at the Bosch number instead of the VW number. On my 205 the Bosch number ends in 009. http://63.230.74.177/vacdist2.jpg
It's intended to be set at 7.5°BTDC at idle (vacuum hose off) http://www.oldvolkshome.com/ignition.htm#A1974MFD
Note that the total (vacuum + centrifugal) advance could be anywhere from 28 to 37° and still be in spec♪ so your total timing could be from 35.5 to 44.5° - if yours has a short curve you may need to bump the idle setting up a couple of degrees.
Check/set the point gap first (.016", ~48° dwell) before adjusting the timing.
♪this is the "wonderful" SVDA distributor - and people ridicule the 009 for having wide factory tolerances!
...there may be some interaction between carb idle adjustments and timing so set the timing first and check it again when you think you're done adjusting the carb
Didn't you say you had put a new cap on it? One of those colored ones? Those things crack sometimes. Try putting the original cap back on. You did save it as a spare in the trunk, right? Also, perhaps you didn't connect one of the plug wires completely or got 2 of them crossed. Since it sounds like one cylinder is not firing, maybe it's just not getting a spark. Running on 3 can heat things up.
I agree with most of the posts here, first thing I thought was timing is off.
Can you give us a bulleted comprehensive list of everything you did or touched right before this overheating started?
first:
*went to the vw shop and got some new parts(alt stand, dist cap, valve covers, etc.)
*took off pully, carb, gen., fan, etc.
*tried to put on a old alt i had because my gens were giving me some trouble, not charging.
*alt wouldnt fit, it kept hitting the carb. no matter where i put it, it wouldnt ride. (called vw shop that sold it to me and they said shave off on the alt, and move your fuel setting screw around until it fits. that was a dumb idea so i but the old gen back on.
*got every thing back together. (in the mean time the dist has movedand i have no idea where it goes. so i move it around untill it sounds good. VERY bad idea. i took a ten minute ride and stalled at a stop light with lack of power. barely got to my destination and found smoke coming out of the wheel well.
*turned the dist a little and barely got home, and found out after a few days the only reason there was a loss of power was becuse i had major vapor lock. my fuel line was riding on my intake manifold, which was very hot. (i dont think it is supposed to be though)
and the reason the smoke was there is from a drippy valve cover.
after all this is said and done, it is starting to cool down around her, and she is running cooler. except that first cyl. is not firing. i dont know why. i have the old dist cover on but i think it is takein a crap.
thinks to do * adjust carb, set timing, fix holes in the engine comp., and get two new hoses for the dog house to heater box.
If you dont have a timing light, you can at least make up a static light (w wires connected to a bulb) and set your timing static. This isnt as good as having a gun, but it will get you close.
yes get those hoses, and shoot, for your engines sake, just take it down to a vw mechanic and let him take a look, at least he could SEE it and give you some advice.
your problem (the lack of power and the overheating) is timing.
set your timing
don't ever set your timing by ear or "moving it around" like a ford or something. worst case scenario, you can set it statically and visually by lining up the rotor to the #1 mark on the edge of the distributor.
yes, get (and read) the muir book right away!
then when this is all settled and running smoothly, you need to take it to a mechanic as soon as, as muir would say "you have the available bread" to check your heads.
I bought a bug a few years ago and got it running and drove it home. The thing ran like a scolded dog. It would not idle worth a crap because of the carbs but after the 5 mile drive home I got out the ol timing gun and it was advanced about 30 degrees.
If you passed emissions with flying colors, and you're having problems with heat, it sounds like you're running very lean. In addition to that, you've found that one of your cylinders isn't firing, or is iffy at best, and that should be fixed before you drive the car again.
You really need to get the Muir book and go through the entire tune-up/maintenance procedure, from ignition adjustment (points, timing, plugs) to carb/idle adjustment. The Muir is the easiest to follow, but the Bentley might help you as well.
Jake's suggestion to tear it down wouldn't be a bad thing right now either. You keep changing things that might not have needed to have been changed, and in the worst case, you're distracting yourself from things that may need some serious attention.
Right now you know you have a timing issue, carb adjustment problem and possible ignition problem with one of the cylinders. The first place I'd start is to get a new Bosch distributor cap, rotor, points, plugs & condenser. Bosch only. I've heard the colored caps are garbage. If you have an ohmmeter you can check your ignition wires to make sure that's not the problem. When you check them end-to-end they should all give you similar readings. Your dead cylinder could be something as simple as an ignition wire, or a problem with the connection on the distributor cap.
Install/gap the points, gap/install the new plugs, get yourself a timing light ($5 at your local auto parts store) and statically set the timing. Double-check your valve adjustment. This should all provide a good starting point. After that, you can go through things like fine-tuning your carb(s).
If you're still heating after that, you'll know it's not because the timing is incorrect, and you can then proceed to things like your fuel lines, filter, air cooling system, etc...
You have to stabilize things before you will know what's going on with your engine.
