Finishing cellulose paint
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russell
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 1:33 am
Finishing cellulose paint
I was under the impression that a re-spray with cellulose meant that you had to finish off by cutting back the paint with a fine wet and dry followed by rubbing compound. I was plannng to do that this weekend - just a couple of days after finishing the respray - but someone just said don't do that for a few weeks to let the paint harden - professional paint jobs put it through the oven so they can cut back next day' Which is right?
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All_talk
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 12:01 am
Hi Russell
You should probably wait, with most paint types you need to wait for a complete cure before color sanding (If you get your face close to the paint and still smell the thinner its not fully cured yet), catalyzed and baked finishes can be sanded much sooner. When you say ?cellulose? I think of old school lacquer, which was typically color sanded and compounded, but I don?t think anybody except purest restorers use it anymore. Most ?cheap? paint jobs these days are acrylic enamel or maybe single stage urethane, maybe its just a terminology issue between the US and England (and they say it?s the same language :p ). If cellulose lacquer is what you used (nothing wrong with it by the way), then your procedure is correct, but you will want to wait a while, it wont cut or polish correctly until its good and hard.
Gary
You should probably wait, with most paint types you need to wait for a complete cure before color sanding (If you get your face close to the paint and still smell the thinner its not fully cured yet), catalyzed and baked finishes can be sanded much sooner. When you say ?cellulose? I think of old school lacquer, which was typically color sanded and compounded, but I don?t think anybody except purest restorers use it anymore. Most ?cheap? paint jobs these days are acrylic enamel or maybe single stage urethane, maybe its just a terminology issue between the US and England (and they say it?s the same language :p ). If cellulose lacquer is what you used (nothing wrong with it by the way), then your procedure is correct, but you will want to wait a while, it wont cut or polish correctly until its good and hard.
Gary
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Bobnotch
- Posts: 1157
- Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:01 am
Russell, old school laquer paint (cellulose) requires at least 30 days to "dry" before sanding and buffing. A friend of mine used to work with laquer all the time, and he would paint a car and then let the customer take it for the next 30 days. They would bring it back, and he would work his magic on it and give it back to them after the weekend. When you sand it, don't use anything courser than 1000 grit, or you'll have sand scratches that won't color sand out. He preferred to use 1500 or 2000, depending on the required finish. I hope this helps.
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brian13862
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2003 3:57 pm
Air drying paint
Hi
If you are going to paint your Bug in a single pack product, here are a couple of tips that may come in handy
1.If the colour is solid ( straight colour ) then leave it a least a week before flatting and polishing or.
2.In the pass i have spray the colour coat de-nib any dirty or dust then re-applied the coat and then applied 3 coat of single pack Acrylic clear coat left it for a week and then flatted and polish , its a lot easier to get a deep shine as you dont get polishing smears with a clear coat
Hope this makes sense
Brain
good luck
If you are going to paint your Bug in a single pack product, here are a couple of tips that may come in handy
1.If the colour is solid ( straight colour ) then leave it a least a week before flatting and polishing or.
2.In the pass i have spray the colour coat de-nib any dirty or dust then re-applied the coat and then applied 3 coat of single pack Acrylic clear coat left it for a week and then flatted and polish , its a lot easier to get a deep shine as you dont get polishing smears with a clear coat
Hope this makes sense
Brain
good luck