Carb Problems

memphisthing · Post by **memphisthing** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 6:33 am

Help!!
I've recently rebuilt my 34 Pict-3 but now I cant get my 73 started. It's getting gas and spark but only "pops" when I try to crank it. I've done the 2.5 turns to initially set the carb but nothing. It was running fine before (until the screw from my after market air cleaner decided to fall down through the carb and into the manifold)

Any suggestions??

Thanks,
Curt

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 10:42 am

Curt when you say its getting gas what are you refering to, the carb or the engine? If you mean the carb open the top of the carb and look at your float chamber. Is it full? If so check the jet at the bottom of it. Is it clear. Trace the path of the fuel through the carb to find and eliminate the malfunction. Hopefully someone like Marc V will be along that knows more but you`ll need to know this much anyway. Good luck. Bob

Speedy Jim · Post by **Speedy Jim** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:01 pm

Look for clues as to what possibly changed. What else might have gotten
knocked askew or disturbed while you were working on it?

Did you get the screw out? Did you have to take the manifold off?
Could there be a vac leak due to hose missing or in wrong place?
Was the distributor or any parts like wires, rotor, cap disturbed at all?

As mentioned, absolutely do check the fuel level in the bowl.
Level should be roughly 3/4" below the rim when you take the top off.
Is the choke closing?

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Post by **Marc** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:22 pm

Did you disconnect any wires between the coil & carburetor at the coil? The power to the cuttoff jet & choke should be on Term 15 along with the black wire from the ignition switch and the black wire leading to the backup light fuses; the only wire needed on Term 1 is the green one from the condenser/points. Since you say you're getting spark you've probably got this right but it can't hurt to look....and where are you getting spark? At the plugs or have you only checked at the coil high-tension wire? If the rotor isn't seated or the cap is damaged you could have spark into the distributor but not coming out.
Usually it's just the plug wires connected wrong, we've all done that.

If no fuel is getting into the float bowl the accelerator pump won't put out (conversely, if it squirts when you open the throttle fuel must be getting in there). Pour a tablespoon of gas directly into the carb air horn, then floor the pedal and crank - it should start and run momentarily, if it does (and sounds strong) the ignition is exonerated and you can concentrate on why the carburetor ain't carburetin'.

memphisthing · Post by **memphisthing** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 12:21 pm

I got the screw out of the manifold. (Thank god it didn't make it into the head!!) I did take the manifold off, distributor and carb. I marked the block and the distributer so it would go back in correctly. I checked at the plug and its getting spark. I didn't take any wires off the coil only the two wires that connect to the carb. They have been spliced together after the coil and connect to the choke and the plunger thing on the driver side of the carb. I'll check the rotor ..maybe it came loose.

I'll do the tablespoon of gas trick this afternoon maybe I can figure this out.

Thanks again,
Curt

Speedy Jim · Post by **Speedy Jim** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 12:29 pm

Read the article: "Why won't my engine start?" on my web site.
Go thru the steps (especially on spark) methodically.

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:41 pm

Curt the best way to remove the distributor without disturbing its orientation is by bringing it out with the clamp attached. Do not loosten the clamp at the dist drive but rather remove the 13mm nut that holds the clamp to the case. That way it will go back with the same timing as it had previously.
Heres what I think. The distributor is not seated into the drive dogs. When reinstalling it you have to rotate the rotor until it aligns and drops about another 1/8"/ At that point the rotor is no longer free to turn and you can reinstall the clamp nut,cap etc.
Bet your dist is not all the way down. Push it down while turning the rotor and see if you can get it to drop. This is a very common mistake so don`t feel embarassed if thats what the problem is. Let us know. Bob

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Fri Nov 19, 2004 11:48 am

I have recently had carb issues, the car started with the original carb...then rebuilt it and it would not run right, so i bought a new one from JC Whitney, installed it and called it day...she runs strong now.

memphisthing · Post by **memphisthing** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 3:40 pm

Just to let everyone know....Speedy Jims page on engine problems is a MUST for wanna-be-mechanics!!!

I went through his steps and my Thing is now running!!!! And with a few nice days left before winter!!!

Thanks again Jim!! And everyone else...this place rocks!!

Curt

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 3:48 pm

Curt that sure beats supporting a mechanic and half the hoes on the blvd doesn`t it? Good deal. Bob

memphisthing · Post by **memphisthing** » Tue Nov 23, 2004 3:51 pm

Bob,
I worked for about 3 hours and got to his last step and she started right up. I have to replace the valve cover gaskets and tune the carb and I'm on the road!!

Curt

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 8:30 pm

This is a great thread and shows how important the Web is in terms of Thingdom. Nice job on the web page offering. Nothing like the feeling that doing it yourself "with a little help from my friends" brings. K-mann

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