BTW, I found a new front crank bearing for the York compressor...installation is in work. I'm chilling the crank in the freezer, and heating the bearing to around 200 deg F in the oven...hopefully that'll allow a little less nip whilst gently pressing the center race over the crank
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
Latest on the OE York R206R compressor...I got it reassembled today, and bench tested it. I hooked it up to the motor that drives my 1947 Cenco vacuum pump (1800 rpm 1/3 hp Westinghouse), and drove the compressor at something like 450 rpm. I tried running it open (pumping air), then throttled through my gauge manifold valves with air, then with R-134a throttled, then with R-134a shut off (to see what kind of max discharge pressure it'd develop). I also cycled the clutch with the discharge pressure around 150 psi (to burnish the clutch faces a bit). After burnishing, the clutch held with engagement at 450 rpm and 250 psi, so we'll see if it holds at 3000 rpm and 250 psi (cruising at 70 mph and clutch cycling once installed). I did have to lap a lot of pits out of the clutch facings. I did note some bleed-down of discharge pressure, possibly indicating a weak discharge valve, but we'll see what the system pressures look like after installing the compressor. It's not too tough to remove the compressor, and the valve plate is pretty easy to replace, and only $33 US. Yeah, I probably should have replaced the valve plate while I had it apart. The crank bearings worked out well, no noise, installed easily. I had to heat the aluminium case around the front crank bearing so it would slip in without pounding, same for the rear bearing retainer. After gentle heating, the crank went in like greased owl crap on teflon. The clutch bearings required a fair bit of pounding with appropriately sized sockets, but appear to be undamaged. The only bearing that was not available on the open market was the front crank bearing. My advice is to not replace it unless it's rough. The rear crank bearing is a standard size, as are the two clutch bearings. I honed the two bores to break the glaze, and also to cut down some corrosion below the ring travel zone, followed by a THOROUGH cleaning. Due to the honing, I decided to run the compressor in to help the rings break in better. Reassembly followed normal small engine practice. You will need a 1/4" 12 point socket for the big end caps, and a 5/16" 12 point socket for the four smaller head bolts. Removing the Rotalock fitting nuts will require soaking and a cheater pipe. Expect to fab up a holding fixture ro be able to put enough torque on the nuts. Under the Rotalock fittings you'll find square-cut PTFE seal rings which come in the CCI seal and gasket kit. Replace them, along with all gaskets and o-rings. I also had to soak the Rotalock nuts and work them back an forth to free them. They should move up and down and turn freely. I used red Loctite on the flat head rear bearing retainer screws, and blue Loctite on everything else that didn't come with a locking patch already. Watch the seal installation, the force needed to hold down the seal installer tool is a bit more than you'd first imagine, and you need to push hard to keep the front seal plate against the case while tightening the six 1/4" hex cap screws.
I didn't find another source through the auto trade, it seems no one sells compressor rebuild parts for auto compressors any more. I'd sure appreciate it if anyone has other sources (not that this company's got bad service, quite the contrary, I just like competition in parts suppliers!).
The bearings (except the front crank) came from Applied Industrial Technologies (Bearings) in Texas City, TX. Really good folks.
Here are the standard part numbers...
Clutch (2): KYK 6906 2RS (double sealed vice the OE single shielded)
Rear Crank: SKF 6203 JEM (non-shielded)
Front Crank: NSK X540 (CCI-specific thickness, non-standard bearing)
Here's the current manufacturer of the York (CCI) compressor...
They've got excellent customer support in the sales department, FYI.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
The transmission is disassembled down to a bare housing. No really major wear, no rust, so that's good. The Direct/Reverse clutch pack did have about 0.115" of free play, so it was a good idea to get new clutch plates, as I do need to replace them. The kickdown solenoid started working when I opened up the pan, but before messing with the wiring, so I got to checking, and discovered that the wire was loose inside the solenoid. I drilled out the spot welds in the solenoid case, and have it apart so I can replace the wire and re-solder. I'll post pictures sometime when I get time. It's not too hard a job. Next, the differential housing.
BTW, when I go into a transmission, I replace the little dingleberry vent things with a real threaded hose fitting so I can plumb the vent to a filter at some convenient high spot on the bodywork. It keeps dust and water out very well. I'm looking at the 003 trans to see how to do it. Did you know that one of the two vent thingys on top of the 003 AT diff housing is for the trans section, and the other is for the diff section? I assumed the trans section was vented through the dipstick tube, but not so.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
The differential is out of the final drive housing (VW 003 AT), no excessive wear apparent yet. I'm pulling the differential carrier to get to the pinion shaft seal that's inside the rear end of the housing (the rear pinion shaft seal, shown as #3 on Figure 11-5, Page 32 of the AT section of the Bentley T3 manual, also shown in Fig 11-7, and in Fig 11-27) to replace it. I'm counting turns on the adjusting rings to reassemble everything as it was, since there's no need to replace bearings (at least none apparent now). Unfortunately, one of the side adjusting rings is really tight (the ring in question is #15 on Figure 11-5 of the noted manual). Anyone have a magic way to turn those beauties? I've tried tapping with a hammer on a fat screwdriver, using my A/C compressor clutch hub holder tool, an opened pair of needle nose pliers, none has gotten it turned more than 1/2 turn. The other side came off with a small bit of tapping, so I'm stumped. Ray, DB, Uber, LB412, anyone, help!
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
MGVWfan wrote:The differential is out of the final drive housing (VW 003 AT), no excessive wear apparent yet. I'm pulling the differential carrier to get to the pinion shaft seal that's inside the rear end of the housing (the rear pinion shaft seal, shown as #3 on Figure 11-5, Page 32 of the AT section of the Bentley T3 manual, also shown in Fig 11-7, and in Fig 11-27) to replace it. I'm counting turns on the adjusting rings to reassemble everything as it was, since there's no need to replace bearings (at least none apparent now). Unfortunately, one of the side adjusting rings is really tight (the ring in question is #15 on Figure 11-5 of the noted manual). Anyone have a magic way to turn those beauties? I've tried tapping with a hammer on a fat screwdriver, using my A/C compressor clutch hub holder tool, an opened pair of needle nose pliers, none has gotten it turned more than 1/2 turn. The other side came off with a small bit of tapping, so I'm stumped. Ray, DB, Uber, LB412, anyone, help!
Me? You give me too much credit my good man, but thanks for not underestimating me. My historic and current economic status has made intimate mechanical vehicular knowledge not always necessary. I don't have enough wealth quite yet to use the excess to accelerate my learning curve through thorough and/or rapid restoration projects as a hobby. I'm on my way, but only time will tell if I can do it...
Your reply helps...at least I know folks are listening!
BTW, I passed the 3-month "rapid" 6 months ago on my 412
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
You need to find something to engage the teeth in the ring obviously. I used two 1/8" dowel pins stuck in a piece of metal bar that I drilled two holes in. You can also heat it a little bit. Both of mine were tight on the last one I worked on.
That differential carrier is some work of art isn't it? Ray
MGVWfan wrote:The differential is out of the final drive housing (VW 003 AT), no excessive wear apparent yet. I'm pulling the differential carrier to get to the pinion shaft seal that's inside the rear end of the housing (the rear pinion shaft seal, shown as #3 on Figure 11-5, Page 32 of the AT section of the Bentley T3 manual, also shown in Fig 11-7, and in Fig 11-27) to replace it. I'm counting turns on the adjusting rings to reassemble everything as it was, since there's no need to replace bearings (at least none apparent now). Unfortunately, one of the side adjusting rings is really tight (the ring in question is #15 on Figure 11-5 of the noted manual). Anyone have a magic way to turn those beauties? I've tried tapping with a hammer on a fat screwdriver, using my A/C compressor clutch hub holder tool, an opened pair of needle nose pliers, none has gotten it turned more than 1/2 turn. The other side came off with a small bit of tapping, so I'm stumped. Ray, DB, Uber, LB412, anyone, help!
Me? You give me too much credit my good man, but thanks for not underestimating me. My historic and current economic status has made intimate mechanical vehicular knowledge not always necessary. I don't have enough wealth quite yet to use the excess to accelerate my learning curve through thorough and/or rapid restoration projects as a hobby. I'm on my way, but only time will tell if I can do it...
Uber a politico? Appears to be a master of the English language to me, maybe a great beer drinker, but not a politician
Good idea on the ring mover, Ray...I was considering something like that, but your idea of using dowel pins is better than mine. Thanks.
I just got the tight adjuster off by loosening the bearing cap bolts and snugging them back down. It took just enough nip out of the adjuster that it turned with some encouragement.
I'll say that diff is a fantastic piece of mechanical design. Everything's easily adjustable (except pinion position, which requires a shim change), all parameters can be reset within close tolerances just by putting the rings back in the same spot as before, beefy, oversized Timken tapered roller bearings at all four spots, cast iron carrier, really beefy Gleason gearset...beats any other I've ever seen for care in design and manufacture. I'd like to meet the mechanical engineer that designed it and buy him a cold one!
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
MGVWfan wrote:Uber a politico? Appears to be a master of the English language to me, maybe a great beer drinker, but not a politician
Good idea on the ring mover, Ray...I was considering something like that, but your idea of using dowel pins is better than mine. Thanks.
I just got the tight adjuster off by loosening the bearing cap bolts and snugging them back down. It took just enough nip out of the adjuster that it turned with some encouragement.
I'll say that diff is a fantastic piece of mechanical design. Everything's easily adjustable (except pinion position, which requires a shim change), all parameters can be reset within close tolerances just by putting the rings back in the same spot as before, beefy, oversized Timken tapered roller bearings at all four spots, cast iron carrier, really beefy Gleason gearset...beats any other I've ever seen for care in design and manufacture. I'd like to meet the mechanical engineer that designed it and buy him a cold one!
You should see one for a late type 2, just as impressive. I have only heard of sand railers destroying the bus diffs, but you should see what they do to them! If the type 4 diff is anything like the type 2 diff, it should NEVER give you any problems.
Last edited by DeathBus on Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yep...its amazing once the cast iron (or cast steel?) pinion carrier unit slides out of the bell housing. You can swap entire differential units in short minutes.
Now...looking at the design...and beefiness....keep that picture in your head. Then look inside the 004, four speed. Its the same gear set (slightly diferent ratio)....but the same make, design...and using the true hypoid design identical to the automatic...with the pinion gear crossing over the the ring gear and engaging at an offset tangent. Very quiet and long wearing. In fact...the pinion gear is splined onto the shaft in both the auto and type 004. The pinion gear will interchange to either shaft.
But....you will notice if you put a 004 differential and ring next to a 003 auto differential and ring.....that for all the simiarities and the "almost" interchangability....that the side cover on botrh diffs...has a different bolt attern. AND...the sight shape difference of the 003 makes it impossible to install in the 004 manual as it rubs against the pinion carrier unit.
But.....what I am working on....is doing the light machine work to use the side output shafts and the spyder gears of the 003....in the 004. They are much much stronger.
The differential side bearings and the pinion bearings on the 004....make even the beefy ones of the 003....look puny!
Also, there were two differential side shaft and stub axle designs for the 003. The late one is the much better one. It uses that long through bolt that goes through the outer stub axle and flange assembly, to engage a splined cap on the inside of the differential...to effectively "sandwhich together the differential body and the output shaft. This way, the side output hsafts do not float in and out in the differential, wearing the spyders. It does not ...therefore...use the spacer tube in between the output shafts that the type 004 and early 003 use.
That is the weak point on the 004. The spyders have very few teeth. They are very high corner turning ratio in that respect. But the teeth are very long and pointy and very wide and strong at the bottom tooth cord. They are fine forever...until the shims bdtween the output shaft ans the differential body wear out....or that strange little spacer ring is omitted when putting the outer stub axle flanges on. Thes cause the side shafts to float back and forth causing too deep of spyder tooth penetration. Once the start to wera..its ugly. Thats why I recommend teraing down all type 4 trannys...manual or auto.....and checking an correcting everything. Catch it before it startsandit will run for ages.
Anyway, with the sandwhich style side shaft system of the type 003 installed......that does two things. It maske the spyders and output shafts replaceable with a more readily available part from and auto box....and also it makes it where light wear can be adjusted for without splitting the case. I can add a thicker shim up to the limit, under the output flange at the outside.
Keep on with the auto. I say thy were well designed excellent running boxes when adjusted properly. But most were poorly adjusted...and sorley misunderstood. Ray
My historic and current economic status has made intimate mechanical vehicular knowledge not always necessary. I don't have enough wealth quite yet to use the excess to accelerate my learning curve through thorough and/or rapid restoration projects as a hobby. I'm on my way, but only time will tell if I can do it...
If the type 4 diff is anything like the type 2 diff, it should NEVER give you any problems.