turbo 1914 ideas

[The method]

I have had this up in the turbo bit of the forum it more of a engine build

As my mate is goin for a bigger turbo set up so he sold me hes car craft kit it is a T4/T3 turbontics turbo and a weber 45 kit

This is to go in my 1956 vert it is a bag of s--t?? hase now hood and glass and interior.
I want to build a mad 1914 turbo and NOs for it...
bit a have laying around at home and they are all new..

set of new s/f 2 heads 44/37
69c/w crank lightened fly wheel an kep 1700lb and 4 puck
set of 94B b&p
scat I beam 5.6
cams w120 an w125 an webcam 121
new case.
supermag magneto.
and a lot of odds.

It for the street and racing, it can be a mad engine i do not mind as i do not mind rebuilding engines .

I would just go 1914, 94A p&b 5.4 rods and a tcs120 but that is just no me..

[iswinkels]

Being a "mad" turbo engine I assume you want to run big rev's, boost, and hp.

No problems with the heads.

The "safe" limit of the mahle pistons is about 7000-7500 so if you want to consistantly run reliably above this level then your looking at wiseco's of better.

Your crank and flywheel will do for a big reving engine, but you'll need the flywheel wedgemated as you'll clearly be running slicks and you don't want to risk breaking the flywheel off the crank. For extra piece of mind you would be better off with a non welded crank, but the welded one will do.

The clutch and pressure plate combination you've got there will handle about 300hp and is fairly streetable. I use the same setup on my 2332 turbo street car.

With the pistons you could run B(stroker) pistons and a longer rod, in which case you can go for some scat 5.6" or 5.7" H beams with 3/8th bolts and upgrade to arp2000 bolts, just for piece of mind as they are a hugely strong rod.

Cams, well this is probably the most heavily debated topic on the forum. I'd say go with the TCS20 and have strong power from 3500 up. There is no sense in over-caming the engine. All you'd potentially end up doing is limiting your power band for the sake of 10-15hp which is nothing in the scheme of things when your talking turbo engines. I run a TCS10 for streetability and have great power from 2400-6000. The TCS30 is for large displacement turbo engines, so its not the cam for you.

New case, consider the aluminium cases with 10mm head studs. The CB case has shuffle pins on all 6 main studs vs the empi one having them only on the center mains, otherwise they are more or less the same. Look at the raceware or arp 10mm head studs.

Ditch the magneto. You can't limit the total advance when under boost or NOS. Best option for drag is a 009 distributor with some sort of MSD (6BTM minimum) box such to provide you with boost retarded ignition.

Having a setup for methanol and a seperate setup for pump fuel is another option. Just have two carbies and set each of them up independantly of each other. The methanol will help a great deal with keeping down your temps at the track, resistance to detonation etc allowing 20+lbs of boost.

That should get you started...

Cheers,

[CalLookVWs]

i've heard quite a few people say that s/f heads on turbo street motors don't work as the seats fall out with the heat...

[iswinkels]

Na never heard of it. The only reported issue that had happened was to a set of superflo heads that capsoval had on his 2332 turbo.

The problem wasn't the seats it was the valve guides. It was "hopefully" just a bad pair of heads. I can't imagine bugpacks top of the line head being that defective or we'd all know a lot more about it.

If you read the thread, capsoval said the (warranty?) repairer did a crap job of fixing the problem too. Instead of re-boring the guide holes and pressing in oversized guides the just put the old guides on a lathe and knurled the outside of the guide and pressed them in again.

As to whether that was bugpack or some dodgy repair shop who can say?

Provided your cooling is adequite a superflow heads or ce heads are fine for the street. By adequite I mean a long way from stock. Stock cooling will not do the job and is not up to the task of making the heads streetable (unless they are in a beach buggy).

[Guest]

Do not go done that path as i now most parts you buy are crap? the seats and valve guides may come lose but i have not see 300hp stock engines. I look at it like this if i can go to a shop and buy a set of head off the shelve and bit of work and they make 300 x hp for 6000k that good if i wanted 100000k 300 x hp i would buy new car, if i bend a rod brake a rocker have an engine go (tits up) it not the end, im just glad that i can make an engine that only had 50hp to start or less go so fast and have so much hp. thing is people buy parts and fit them and do not look or now what they have and then they flip up and then it got a dad name not that the man how mad it only wanted it to last 1-2 drag race's not for me to come and fit it and go to the shops and do 1000k a week if people do they must be sane because im insane and i now it, so next time you buy a set off head like s/f look at them and go thank you Fred in you shed because if you did not make them i would still be in my shed tiring to get my stock head to last see if you can buy a new 1600cc car and make it in to 2.5L and have up to 400hp by goin to a shop and getting parts of the shelve you would be lucky to get pistons to make it that big, parts may not be the best and not last long but at lest we have them.