looking for a 73-75 914 2.0

bender · Post by **bender** » Sun Dec 25, 2005 11:39 am

the most important issue is the rust free...
budget 1500-2500$
7325867799
thanks a lot

Rand · Post by **Rand** » Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:04 pm

Rust free as in never been rusty, or has been repaired?

I'm just asking because you either need a bigger budget, or you need to be more specific about what areas you are willing to do work on.

If you want a 73+ car that has never been rusty, and runs great, with a straight body, good interior, etc., you'll need a bigger budget.

So do you like to do engine work, body work, or what?

bender · Post by **bender** » Wed Dec 28, 2005 2:41 pm

the most important thing is as low rust as can be
cosmeticts i dont care, engine- 2.0 must run good , all other stuff less important
most important is the rust issue and then the engine...
thanks

Post by **Piledriver** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 1:57 pm

Depending greatly on location, a straight runner 73+ 2.0 with minimal rust could set you back $5K easily.

A pretty straight car with a blown/missing motor/tranny would likely be in budget, and a "running" 2.0 motor can be had for $250 complete if you have good junkyard shopping skillz...

I'd strongly suggest considering a motor and straight car as separate projects.

Ephry73 · Post by **Ephry73** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:47 pm

I would rather find a straight car, with a blown motor, than a rust 914 with a good engine.

E

Rand · Post by **Rand** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 5:26 pm

Bottom line is your budget is too small. Under $2500 for a 73+ rust-free with a good-running 2.0 is not realistic.

bender · Post by **bender** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:03 am

Rand wrote:Bottom line is your budget is too small. Under $2500 for a 73+ rust-free with a good-running 2.0 is not realistic.

i can scratch 3K

Post by **Piledriver** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 9:05 am

Keep the car/motor hunt separate and that's quite reasonable.
OTOH, you might get lucky.
(again, depends greatly on where you are, and you don't have that in your profile)

Keep in mind that even if the motor runs great, it is a VERY good idea to have the heads "done" ASAP by a reputable T4 aware head shop... very short list.
(the short blocks tend to be relatively bullet proof)

HAM (Len posts here)
Headflow Masters/Audirac (Adrian)
European Motor Works (aka EMW)
If the heads require welding, stick with Len or Adrian, Len if you can afford it.

You probably want just a rebuild/new seats/guides/ex valves, & HD springs.
As a reliability and performance "upgrades" also search on pushrod tube seal, HD 8mm rocker studs (the factory 7mm ones actually suck) and solid rocker spacers.

You must think of this as insurance.