Turbo Tie Rod Kit 911/914 fitment question
-
vwduud
- Posts: 341
- Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 1:01 am
Turbo Tie Rod Kit 911/914 fitment question
Is the "kit" for 914's and 911's interchangeable, using the exact same parts from either kit (same thread sizes/pitches, same tie rod length, same boot configuration)? Thanks - Jim
-
Dave_Darling
- Posts: 2534
- Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2000 12:01 am
Yes. The spacers may or may not be needed; I'm not sure. Installation can be a pain; there is one nut which is very difficult unless you have a very thin wrench to use on it. I am told that a "bicycle bottom bracket wrench" from a bicycle store will work--but I don't know the exact size. (Nor do I remember the exact nut; I imagine it will be pretty obvious once you get in there.)
The common cheapie e-bay TTR kits are poor quality. The good ones can be found at the more reputable sellers, like Pelican Parts or GPR.
--DD
The common cheapie e-bay TTR kits are poor quality. The good ones can be found at the more reputable sellers, like Pelican Parts or GPR.
--DD
-
raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
I have a question this regard....Dave.....last week, I bought complete German Tie-rod assemblies for my rabbit convertible. They are very very similar to what is on Porsche for rack and pinion.
Same thin nut. That nut on the inner tie rod to the rack ...is a b*tch to break loose. Question is...do you need to hold the nut at the other end when breaking this thing loose? Will torquing the rack against the gear cause any issues? These inner tie-rod ends have no lock nut. They have a thin wrench nut area on the ball joint...and a stud on the end of the tie rod ball joint that screws into the end of the rack. It will probably take 60 ft lbs of torque to break that loose. I can't fathom not holding the other ned and just letting the rack twist against the gear. Your thoughts please? Sorry its not air cooled. Ray
Same thin nut. That nut on the inner tie rod to the rack ...is a b*tch to break loose. Question is...do you need to hold the nut at the other end when breaking this thing loose? Will torquing the rack against the gear cause any issues? These inner tie-rod ends have no lock nut. They have a thin wrench nut area on the ball joint...and a stud on the end of the tie rod ball joint that screws into the end of the rack. It will probably take 60 ft lbs of torque to break that loose. I can't fathom not holding the other ned and just letting the rack twist against the gear. Your thoughts please? Sorry its not air cooled. Ray
-
Dave_Darling
- Posts: 2534
- Joined: Thu Apr 27, 2000 12:01 am
-
bt
- Posts: 142
- Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 11:24 pm
I dont know about a Rabbit but on a 911 you dont need to hold one end while you turn the other. Just turn the wheel until the rack cant go any further.
to get the old rod off,you can put a long screwdriver in between the u-shapped joint on the old rod. Or you can use a pipe wrench on the old tie rod. Do one side at a time. Also dont take the rod end off. you can use the old rod as a measure for the new rod. This will keep you close so your steering wont be that messed up.
The only real PITA is that stupid spring that holds on the boot onto the rack, try not to bend it.
Oh yea, a 914 and a 911 have the same front supension.
any more question feel free to ask.
Bryan
to get the old rod off,you can put a long screwdriver in between the u-shapped joint on the old rod. Or you can use a pipe wrench on the old tie rod. Do one side at a time. Also dont take the rod end off. you can use the old rod as a measure for the new rod. This will keep you close so your steering wont be that messed up.
The only real PITA is that stupid spring that holds on the boot onto the rack, try not to bend it.
Oh yea, a 914 and a 911 have the same front supension.
any more question feel free to ask.
Bryan