Pulling Engine - What all should I do??

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vesnyderq
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Pulling Engine - What all should I do??

Post by vesnyderq »

I will be pulling my motor for the first time to fix a fountain of engine leaks - oil cooler and oil pump - and may replace my push rod tube seals. Any thing else I should fix/inspect while I am in there?
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Type 4 Unleashed
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Post by Type 4 Unleashed »

Hey Newbe

You can, if your gonna replace tube seals, do a retorque on the heads, and check the cranks end play. With the pump and cooler re-seal, their's not really much more you can do, without tearing into the motor.
Richard

EMW

“Have you ever noticed how some people never
have the money to do it right, but can always
find the money to do it twice ?”
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Piledriver
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Post by Piledriver »

I can think of a couple of things...In addition:

Front pulley (fan) seal
Rear seal (on flywheel) replace is part of checking the end play.
Remove the dist drive shaft first, before puling flywheel. Really.

Consider replacing the trans input shaft bearing in the flywheel, ~$5.
Thick side with the lettering goes OUT.
Clean/lube regardless.
...Clutch/TO beaing time?

Jake gave up his tricks for leak free pushrod tubes--- He uses Permatex Pipe thread sealer.
I polish up and deburr the PR tube bores in the heads with Scotchbrite on a split dowell, chucked up in a drill.

The combination shouldn't cut o-rings on install, or ever leak again.

Another question.. If you are pumping that much oil, how's your blowby?

Another good idea is to install HD 8mm rocker studs/spacers and Porsche adjusters at this time, if you have 8mm adjusters.
The studs/nuts should be done regardless, the factory 7mm step stud/nut is garbage.
It's a PITA to do in the car. (just did it, should've waited until I drop it next month for jugs and heads)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
knabini
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Post by knabini »

It would be a good idea to adjust the valves.
vesnyderq
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Post by vesnyderq »

Thanks for the input!

Piledriver - You ask about "blowby" - not sure what you are referring to?
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Dave_Darling
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Post by Dave_Darling »

I'm not Piledriver, but "blowby" generally refers to the combustion gases "blowing by" the rings and winding up inside the crankcase. In general, the more of it you have the poorer the rings are sealing to the cylinder walls.

--DD
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

And on that note....if there is much blow-by.....why is it causing such leaks? (if that is the cause). What condition is your PCV system in? Ray
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Piledriver
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Post by Piledriver »

vesnyderq wrote:Thanks for the input!

Piledriver - You ask about "blowby" - not sure what you are referring to?
Just as Dave and Ray stated, I was referring to crankcase pressure.

You can have a "perfectly" sealed up engine, but if you have tons of blowby from bad rings or loose ex guides, or just inadequate PCV, the oil WILL find a a way out.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
vesnyderq
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:50 pm

Post by vesnyderq »

Given the oil leakage that I have, engine blowby is difficult to assess - hoe much is coming from the exhaust and how much is a reslut of oil leaking onto the headers/heat exchangers? Once I get it sealed up I should have a better feel!
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