Oil Sump for AutoX??

[Ephry73]

That is what I was thinking. Sounds like a decent deal to have setup up, even on a stockish engne.


E

[tallqball]

Glad to hear the accusump works well. I'm curious, what size did you go with? I was thinking of the quart and a half model...

The electric valve looks like the way to go.

[Hot Wheels]

My Auto-x car is actually a big block Trans Am so I used a 3 quart with the electric valve setup.

On the 66x102 motor I run a dry sump system and plans are in the works to add an accusump to this one as well if i can find the space. A two quart will take care of a small block chevy so Im thinking a quart and a half would be plenty.

I have the electric valve tied to the ignition so i get pre oiling as soon as i turn onthe key. as soon as the guage shows pressure i fire it. When you shut down you have captured enough oil for the next start.

I am going to use it on my sand car, I think it will be great protection for climbing steep hills at the dunes and dragracing as well. probably overkill with a dry sump but thats my game.

Good Luck.

[Ephry73]

The electric valve is definitely the ticket.


E

[huw'sspeedster]

Jake are these accusump's any good? ground clearance is an issue for me need to fit everything up to see if i can spare 2"1/2!

[shambly]

The electric valve is definitely the ticket.


E

Do you mean the electric value or the electric E.P.C. valve?

It appears that the E.P.C. values only allow the accusump to discharge when the engine gets below a threshold pressure - I would think that this is a good thing at it ensures that the accusump is completely full when you need it? And it would recharge it more quickly too.

Is my thinking correct?

[MASSIVE TYPE IV]

The accusump Is good, the only problem is the fact that after it dumps into the system IT then has to recharge before the rest of the engine builds any pressure or sees any volume.

This can be an issue if the corner is long enough that it allows the accusump to discharge and you are still in the corner with the pick up tube away from oil supply in the sump- there is nothing to recharge the system..

So most accusumps are worthless without a sump mod as well, they can even make the problem WORSE..

One key is to ensure the accusump is not too large for the engine, which is a common mistake as the larger the unit the longer it takes to recharge-

If you are serious, install BOTH and the problems will go away.

[shambly]

Jake - understood about using in combo with a deeper sump.

I'm very keen to buy one of your lower profile sumps when available

[Quik914]

Jake,

The set up I have on my 2316 is the 2 qt. accusump and the deep sump you put on. Does that have me covered? I have not noticed any issues with the deep sump I have on there. Is it the 1.5 quart one you reffered to above?

BTW, I think the valve adjustment went pretty well. It seemed like I could spin the push rods all the time, but the adjusting feet only when there was no tension on the rocker. Is there an indication that might suggest they are too tight that I can look out for? I only have CHT on the on #3, so if any of the others are running hot, I can not tell.

Thanks

MK

[MASSIVE TYPE IV]

quik, You will be fine with the unit you have AND the sump I added..

Is there an indication that might suggest they are too tight that I can look out for? I only have CHT on the on #3, so if any of the others are running hot, I can not tell.

If they are tight the pushrods can't be rotated with your fingers... And you'll have pops out the exhaust and intake when the engine is cold, and it'll be misfiring as well..

CHT on #3 is fine, it's always the hottest unless you have something mechanically wrong with another cylinder causing it to be hotter..

were any of the valves tight enough to need more than 1/4 turn to get back to zero?

[Quik914]

No, none of them needed more than 1/4 turn. They were all just a little loose. I could slide the .0015 feeler in easily to several and the others just barely.

I think one or two might be a little tight because I did have a little poping out the intake last night when I took it for a ride and it was still cool. I kind of thought I could spin the push rods even when they were loaded, maybe I am just sliding off the rod so it feels like I am turning it, but I really can't see anything and it is hard to get my pinky in to turn them on #1 and #4. The adjusting feet seem to be a better indicator when there is no load on the rocker since it is easy to see if I am actually spinning it. I guess at 0 gap, I should not be able to spin it very easily but it should still spin right? Am I better off seeing if I can slide the .0015 feeler in just barely and leaving it at that? I really don't want to burn any valves!

I am still learning the feel for it. I am sure with a little practice it will be a 20 min. job. Is there a mark on the fan for TDC for #1? I could not really see when it was on the jack stands. I was kind of just using the theory and spinning the motor until the valve I want to adjust was all the way out by watching closley (ie the exhaust was opening almost all the way, so the Intake must be fully closed, right?) and I could spin the pushrod and adjusting foot.

Thanks

[Hot Wheels]

The accusump Is good, the only problem is the fact that after it dumps into the system IT then has to recharge before the rest of the engine builds any pressure or sees any volume.


If you are serious, install BOTH and the problems will go away.

Yes, but... In practice you put the air charge on the accusump so it wont take oil away from the system till it reaches a minimum pressure. On mine the air side is set at 40# right now. oil pressure has to be over 40 before the sump will start taking oil from the motor. That may be set a little high yet( still testing) but I dont want to starve the engine when it gets critical. Certainly as it fills it robs some volume and takes a little longer to build full pressure. The size valve used as well as the line size to the engine also affect how fast the pressure can rise and fall.

Cantons website claims the electric valve helps control the re-fill rate as well.

Placement of the tap would seem to be important as well. I try to locate mine at the point farthest from the pump after the cam and crank get oil. A fluid engineer might say that doesnt matter as pressure would be equal in the whole system but common sence says if its at the end, everything gets first shot at flow at any given pressure before the accusump gets its quart of bloodl.

[tallqball]

So I have to ask, where did you tap in? The oil cooler lines would be easy, since it is remote with the DTM setup...

Q

[Hot Wheels]

On my Pontiac there is a nice cast port after the cam and main oil channel. I have not installed an accusump on the type 4 yet, I have a 2 stage dry sump system on it and need to look at the oil flow diagram again before i make the final decision. I would rather Jake made that suggestion since he knows the passages by heart.


I was thinking the the oil cooler was after the pressure relief and would not be very useful. At least on mine it leaves the case there and heads through the cooler back to the storage tank so the cooler is not under pressure.

Jake?

Everything you ever wanted to know about an accusump.... http://www.accusump.com/accusump.pdf/instructions.pdf

BTW, I do have my air side set to high, after re-reading the recomendations, they only want 15psi empty as a max. Guess I should back it down some tonight.

[huw'sspeedster]

The accusump holds extra oil to the normal sump so if used on its own without a deep sump still provides extra oil to standard,so the larger one would hold more oil thereby giving you more safety?Or does the extra oil over fill the case and drain back too slowly causing problems with too much oil??
Ground clearance is one of the reasons i went for the type4 it was said that a deep sump was not required,I know this is only in extream cases but if i have it i will use it at some stage or other!!!