rebuilding front brake calipers

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knabini
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Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2002 12:01 am

rebuilding front brake calipers

Post by knabini »

I was so happy to start rebuilding my calipers, and, after removing those old rubber boots, I saw this: the piston in on caliper has a crack, and the other piston has a broken off part. This particular caliper leaked, causing me to start repairing. I did not remove the pistons, cause I did not want to brake them more. I guess I have to options: 1) is to get 4 used pistons without any cracks. 2) to get 2 used calipers with good pistons for the future rebuild. If anybody has any of parts I mentioned above for sale, let me know. Thanks all
Twystd1
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Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 8:42 pm

Post by Twystd1 »

If you can afford to get this done by a pro..

Eric Shea is one of the best in the business.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/page/page/1925563.htm

His work is concourse correct. And his stuff works...

He can also send ya the parts you need. if ya ask nice

Tell him Clayton sent ya......

Regards,
Twystd1
knabini
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Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2002 12:01 am

Post by knabini »

Thank you, Clayton.
I will ask Eric, let's see what happens.
knabini
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Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2002 12:01 am

Post by knabini »

update:
the broken part is a flange above the groove where the rubber gasket sits. which means I have to replace the calipers.
question: I found a company MOFOCO in Milwaukee, WI, which sells the rebuilt calipers. Is their work good?
Twystd1
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Post by Twystd1 »

Typically yes.

Twystd1
knabini
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Post by knabini »

Thank you. :mrgreen:
Romoman
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Post by Romoman »

What year calipers do you need?

Matt
knabini
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Post by knabini »

1973
knabini
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Post by knabini »

I just got the rebuilt calipers, but they have to bleeding screws. My original ones had one screw. Are these rebuild calipers for 1973? should I have any concerns about them? Or just ignore the bottom bleeding screw and bleed the system as usual?
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

Be absolutely sure you have the right calipers. They will need your chassis number to get these correct. Those are late model calipers for 73 on. Your model year starts after August of 1972. So if your car shows to be made in september of 1972 or later....it is indeed a 1973. If it was made in August of 72 or earlier it will be a 72 and use teh smaller caliper and pad and will not fit with your rotor or spindles. Ray
knabini
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Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2002 12:01 am

Post by knabini »

Everything worked out well - I also replaced the rotors and bled the brake system 3 times. Still seems to be weak, but I know that these brakes are the worst porsche's brakes (
Thank you, guys, for your help and advice.
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Piledriver
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Post by Piledriver »

knabini wrote:Everything worked out well - I also replaced the rotors and bled the brake system 3 times. Still seems to be weak, but I know that these brakes are the worst porsche's brakes (
Thank you, guys, for your help and advice.
The major issues everyone has with the stock brakes are:
Setting the venting clearance for the rear calipers
The proportioning valve makes bleeding the rears a PITA.

The venting clearance takes some patience, and the proportioning valve is frequently replaced by a "T" , which solves the issue with the bleeding.
(At the risk of the rear locking up first---Never had a problem, YMMV)

They really work very well _if_ bled properly... and all the rubber lines are in good shape.(another biggie, new rubber lines are CHEAP and a good idea if you personally haven't replaced them)

If you ever have to replace the MC, upgrade to the 19mm 911 version.
Bolts in and makes the brakes "feel" MUCH better. Cheaper too IIRC.

Having said all that, I run the front calipers on the back, and use BMW 2002Ti 4 pot fronts now.
(Parking brake? What parking brake?)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
knabini
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Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2002 12:01 am

Post by knabini »

Thanks for your input )
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