Where would you start?

RodneyW · Post by **RodneyW** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 11:29 am

This weekend I am finally bringing home the ’71 Fasty I’ve been stalking since the spring. It took me awhile going through the arduous process of claiming an abandoned vehicle, but now I have time and space for it.

The Fasty was last registered in North Carolina in 1998 and last inspected in September 1998. It has been on my VW guy’s lot since at least 2000. His computer crashed in 2000, so if it had been left at his shop more recently he would have a record of it.

Sometime between the fall of ’98 and 2000, a military family moved the car from Fayetteville, NC to Northern VA where it ended up abandoned on my guy’s lot. Why was it abandoned there? What’s wrong with it? He doesn’t remember.

So here’s my question … where would you start the process of bringing it back to life? The FI was replaced with a single carb that towers out of the engine compartment into the luggage compartment. It has an air conditioning fan unit, but no compressor. I had a key made that fits the ignition, but of course nothing happened as it has a battery that is long dead.

I’d be quite interested in your opinions what I should do first (and second and third). As much as I can, as fast as I can, I can provide you further info if that would be helpful.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:15 pm

First...find out the condition of the body. See if its even worth keeping. Rust...dents...needed panels..etc. Then the condition of all teh rubber parts and glass. Some is very hard to get. Wiring next.

If all of that is at least fixable....then the suspension. Then the brakes....then teh engine and drivetrain. Ray

bo · Post by bo » Mon Aug 07, 2006 5:25 pm

dont forget the pans

RodneyW · Post by **RodneyW** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:18 pm

Thanks for the quick response. The body is in very good shape (photos under the same name over on The Samba). Can't speak to pans or wiring.

I was thinking (1) take out the gas tank, use a resto kit on it and replace fuel lines; (2) oil change; (3) change the plugs, coil and wires; (4) buy a new battery; (5) cross my fingers and crank. Diagnose further from there.

Am I on anything close to the right track?

Bobnotch · Post by **Bobnotch** » Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:25 pm

If you use one of those tank resto kits, becareful around the sump of the fuel outlet, as there are slots in the bottom that allow the well to fill with fuel. Most recommend a radiator shop steam clean it out, and dry throughly, mist in some soluable oil and go.

RodneyW · Post by **RodneyW** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:58 am

Appreciate the response ... curious though. Most kits are swirl, swish and dump. What's the concern? Is it that a sealer would puddle in the sump and clog up slots?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:35 pm

Yep...thats the ticket.

The tank kits are actually good...but you must be careful and exact in using everything properly to get good results.

I reccommend using muriatic acid (swimming pool acid) first. 50/50 with water. Repeated sloshings in the tank ...stay upwind or wear a respirator...and wera goggles and have a hose handy.....will totally disolve all rust including flaky and surface rust within minutes.

Thats awesome. Problem is this. The tank resurfacing kits are relying on a mixture of phosphoric acid......which turns the rust into a permanent black iron phosphate.....that will never rust again. This is called a rust converter. It makes an absolutely superb primer for the epoxy mixture that is the sealer and liner.

The problem with just using phosphoric acid alone...is that it only converts....what it can reach. If you have thick or flaky rust at the seams....and many tanks do.....it only converts the surface rust to about .003-.005" thickness. This allows that rust underneath to keep bubbleing even after coating.

So...use the acid water mix to dissolve ALL rust first. Then rinse it with water. Your tank will be spankin clean metal after this.

Now...this is key. After rinsing....let it dry. It will surface rust almost immediately wherever the acid was...because the acid strip[s away ALL oil. But....once you rinse....let it rust....rinse again and rust some more....about 48 hours....you get a very thin even surface rust for the phosphoric acid rust converter to convert to an iron phospate primer for the expoxy. Very even...and no flaky rust. It makes teh tank sealer kit work better. Ray

RodneyW · Post by **RodneyW** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:19 am

Thanks a ton Ray for the feedback. I will follow your advice very closely ... if I can ever get the thing home. My tree folks (who were going to take out the oak where I want to sit the Fasty) have been delayed by bad weather, so I still don't have it home .... yet!

As I do wade my way through, I will have much more to ask. Thanks again.

owendub · Post by **owendub** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 3:32 pm

1 - Slam it!
2 - Put some shiny wheels on it!
3 - Drive it!

WildBill · Post by **WildBill** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:03 pm

Rodney,
Don't forget the valve adjustments. Does the engine turn over by hand? A really good bonus if that happens. If its frozen expect some major damage and /or repairs.

Check the tranny fluids. Oh yeah ditch that gawd awful Weber progressive carb. Total headache to get it right and keep it that way.

Good Luck and keep us posted.

Post by **Marc** » Sun Sep 10, 2006 7:56 pm

Any car that's been sitting that long should have the brake fluid flushed out/replaced...while you're at it check the flex hoses and see if the calipers & wheel cylinders are stuck.
The Type III front end has an endplay adjustment on the upper control arms that's often overlooked leading to excess wear on the control arms/bearings/thrust plates (the swaybar too if the setscrew works loose). Jack up the front end and push/pull on the top of the tires while observing where the upper control arms go into the beam. If it's really sloppy you should probably take things apart to see what condition they're in, but in any case lube the front end and adjust the endplay if needed.
If you haven't found anything wrong that would've been serious enough to park the car by then, I guess it'd have to be engine, transmission/clutch/CVs, or an electrical problem - any of which is well worth the effort to fix on a sound `71 III. Keep us posted.

RodneyW · Post by **RodneyW** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:22 pm

Great advice. Short version of my world is I have to paint my Ghia before I can turn to the Fasty.

I'm going to start with the engine first. Fuel tank. Replace the fuel lines. I have no taste for VW Flambe. Battery, coil, distributor cap, rotor, points and plugs. I'm figuring if the negine doesn't turn or sounds like glass breaking if I try to turn it, no point advancing to brakes before then.

Since I have you here, what is the ideal way to turn a T3 engine over by hand?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 4:47 pm

On the type 3...turning the engine by hand is not ideal. One way is to snap the cover plate off of the pully shroud and put a stout flat wrench onto the generator....assuming the belt is tight and try to turn there.
The other way is to take a long thin breaker bar and reach through teh timing hole and turn at teh serrated edges of the fan/crank pulley. This is the least advisable method. It commonly tears teh sheet metal.

Or...Jack it up in the rear, block it, put it in gear....and turn the wheels via a socket and nut at the rear wheel. Ray

RodneyW · Post by **RodneyW** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 5:45 pm

Going through the timing hole is the method suggested in John Muir's book. I appreciate your skepticism. Makes me feel better about mine.