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I don't know exactly which flywheel bolts you got from KEP, but mine were a little longer than stock. On some flywheels this can cause premature (what the english word for it?) 'stopping' before the end of the inner thread in the crank is reached. Hope you understand
Be carefull when you also leave the locking plate out, as this will cause the bolt to recess even further into the crank..
besides, I like the HD Ahnendorp bolts much better as those also have a wider, non-threaded stem (which needs the flywheel holes to be reamed a tiny bit) which fits than exactly in the flywheel holes.
I asume Jakes HD bolts may be similar in design as the BAS' and then you can better buys jakes than use the KEP bolts imo
greets,
Walter
Last edited by Wally on Fri Oct 06, 2006 6:09 am, edited 1 time in total.
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi in a streetlegal 1303
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
I typically don't find the length problem an issue with 914 flywheels (he is building a 914 engine) because the flywheels are thicker by .125 than a Bus flywheel.
It is a good thing to check, for sure. Great point wally..
I have known about the "thinner" Bus flywheels since 1984 or so when I helped my dad install a T4 in a sand rail (1911 engine with dual 40 Dells)
I'll probably go ahead and use the lockplate (just to hold the felt washer in) It helps keep the small amount of grease we use in the pilot bearing.. in the pilot bearing and not on the clutch disc.
Excellent. The engine and trans will go into the car tonight!!