Hello all, I am currently thinking of buying a '70 squareback for commuting to school. I will be attending the Universal Technical Institute in January to become a Volkswagen Technician. I've always been involved in cars, racing and restoration so I'm not the typical "dumb blonde" when it comes down to my knowledge of cars. The deal seems nice; 90K original miles, stored for 7 years, two owners, the last of which owns/operates a Porsche/VW performance shop, computerized service records going all the way back, automatic, only $1500.oo. My question to all of you out there is this: What should I be looking for in this car as far as risks? (electrical, rust, damage, etc.) I have a problem every time I look into buying a car. I get too excited and tend to blow off the important "tire kicking" and nosing around before I commit myself to something that I really can't afford to be investing in. Please help me ask the right questions so I can be prepared the next time I go down to this guys shop so I know what to look for. The first time I saw the square I fell in love with it and was able to drive it around the block and back. After that, all of the questions I had in my head disappeared and I went straight to the "how much do you want?" question... silly girl... Anywho, and help you all can afford will be greatly appreciated.
PLUR, Meredith Phillips
'87 Scirocco 16V
(X2) '72 Super Beetles
'73 STD Beetle
Dangerous Contemplations...(help!)
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11914
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
There are others you will want to speak to here as well. I have work on and owned numerous type 3's. I mostly work on type 4 (411/412) now though.
The worst part about this will not be the 90K miles. That is great. The fact that it was stored for 7 years will have done the most damage. Mostly to the fuel system and possibly (depending on the condition of the storage) to things like rust on teh cylinder walls.
The price is good if all is as advertized. Things to look for are mainly "completeness"...as there are alot of parts you cannot get.
The engine...no problem. If its in good shape....personnally I would take it apart...put new bearings and seals in it, get a valve job and maybe even new pistons and cylinders. The injection system (if its injected)...may have some issues. Personally I love D-jet injection. But it is not for the faint of heart and there will be little or no mention of this injection type in any course you take. It actually runs quite well and is layed out nicely.
Things to check into on the injection are these:
Injectors....they may have rusted. They are available. Rebuilts $30
fuel pressure regulator.....these rarely survive storage. Rust flecks destroy the metering plate. About $40
All injection system gaskets, seals, FI runner boots,vacuum hoses, injector seals and fuel lines will be trash and need to be replaced. The fuel lines need replacing every 2-3 years in regular use anyway. All this for under $100
The fuel injection harness must be inspected carefully. They generally didn't age well during normal use. If its not patched or cracked...a cleaning of all connectors will get you going fine. In the long run...get a new one . THere are a couple people on these forums that make them to factory spec, About $385 and worth every penny.
The MPS (manifold pressure sensor). In a 70 model it should have been the early version. Bullet proof. Just check it for vacuum and check resistance. It should be fine.
Fuel pump. 50/50 with being stored. Do a pressure and volume test. If it fails, there are numerous pumps you can use.
Check teh gas tank for rust. Clean it out...remove the sock filter.
The transmission should be good...milage wise.
If the body is straight and has no rust especially in the rear quater panels
Then you are fine.
Hard to get things are the fender beading and the wondow and winsdhield gaskets but the y6are available I think.
All of the interior parts are available.
Check the front suspension for rust.
Sounds like a good deal if all is decent. Straight, little rust, etc. If the interior has worn out seats and headliner...no big deal. Plan on teh brakes being shot from sitting and some of the fuel system checking listed above and the need for at least some clean up and resgasketing on the engine...and new tie rod ends and shocks and $1500 for a straight complete car should be a good deal. Ray
The worst part about this will not be the 90K miles. That is great. The fact that it was stored for 7 years will have done the most damage. Mostly to the fuel system and possibly (depending on the condition of the storage) to things like rust on teh cylinder walls.
The price is good if all is as advertized. Things to look for are mainly "completeness"...as there are alot of parts you cannot get.
The engine...no problem. If its in good shape....personnally I would take it apart...put new bearings and seals in it, get a valve job and maybe even new pistons and cylinders. The injection system (if its injected)...may have some issues. Personally I love D-jet injection. But it is not for the faint of heart and there will be little or no mention of this injection type in any course you take. It actually runs quite well and is layed out nicely.
Things to check into on the injection are these:
Injectors....they may have rusted. They are available. Rebuilts $30
fuel pressure regulator.....these rarely survive storage. Rust flecks destroy the metering plate. About $40
All injection system gaskets, seals, FI runner boots,vacuum hoses, injector seals and fuel lines will be trash and need to be replaced. The fuel lines need replacing every 2-3 years in regular use anyway. All this for under $100
The fuel injection harness must be inspected carefully. They generally didn't age well during normal use. If its not patched or cracked...a cleaning of all connectors will get you going fine. In the long run...get a new one . THere are a couple people on these forums that make them to factory spec, About $385 and worth every penny.
The MPS (manifold pressure sensor). In a 70 model it should have been the early version. Bullet proof. Just check it for vacuum and check resistance. It should be fine.
Fuel pump. 50/50 with being stored. Do a pressure and volume test. If it fails, there are numerous pumps you can use.
Check teh gas tank for rust. Clean it out...remove the sock filter.
The transmission should be good...milage wise.
If the body is straight and has no rust especially in the rear quater panels
Then you are fine.
Hard to get things are the fender beading and the wondow and winsdhield gaskets but the y6are available I think.
All of the interior parts are available.
Check the front suspension for rust.
Sounds like a good deal if all is decent. Straight, little rust, etc. If the interior has worn out seats and headliner...no big deal. Plan on teh brakes being shot from sitting and some of the fuel system checking listed above and the need for at least some clean up and resgasketing on the engine...and new tie rod ends and shocks and $1500 for a straight complete car should be a good deal. Ray
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ddare
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:37 pm
I think ray pretty much got everything there, you can count on the interior being fried on a desert car like that. I bought my Squareback in 29 Palms, CA and it was toasted. All the interior rubber, seals, headliner and dash were shot. Not much rust to worry about though.
They really are nice little cars, though you've got to be a brave soul to drive an ACVW in the summer in the Mojave desert. The later model squarebacks had a nice big fresh air ventilation system though which helps considerably.
Ridgecrest, huh? I lived out there for close to 10 years growing up. I got as far away as I could as soon as I could, ended up enlisting in the Marines and of course where do they send me but back to that freakin' desert. Anyway hope the VW hunt goes well. If there's a local ACVW mechanic that you can have check it out that might be in your best interest. Good luck, Doug
They really are nice little cars, though you've got to be a brave soul to drive an ACVW in the summer in the Mojave desert. The later model squarebacks had a nice big fresh air ventilation system though which helps considerably.
Ridgecrest, huh? I lived out there for close to 10 years growing up. I got as far away as I could as soon as I could, ended up enlisting in the Marines and of course where do they send me but back to that freakin' desert. Anyway hope the VW hunt goes well. If there's a local ACVW mechanic that you can have check it out that might be in your best interest. Good luck, Doug
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Tom Notch
- Moderator
- Posts: 3332
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2000 12:01 am
check this out-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=78049
good info there on looking at T3s
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=78049
good info there on looking at T3s
Tom
Tom's Old VW Home
DVKK
DSD, dark side disciples
Tom's Old VW Home
DVKK
DSD, dark side disciples
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vintageorbust
- Posts: 43
- Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:56 pm