12v conversion
- RyanB
- Posts: 1466
- Joined: Wed Feb 26, 2003 12:01 am
12v conversion
So I recently got a 66 Beetle (baja) and the motor I am putting in to it has an Alternator. I know that to run 12v in a 6v system I need to put in a convertor for the Windshield Wipers. However what about everything else? Lights should all work, just be brighter right? Is there anything else that I should worry about besides the wipers? Can the starter motor handle 12v? Cant think of anything else...
Thanks.
~RyanB
Thanks.
~RyanB
- Speedy Jim
- Posts: 2290
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
Yes, you can run the starter on 12V (helpful though to
replace the solenoid with a 12V unit).
Read the article on my web site:
"6V/12V Conversion checklist"
Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
replace the solenoid with a 12V unit).
Read the article on my web site:
"6V/12V Conversion checklist"
Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/
- Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=70327
You'll need to change all the bulbs - they'll be bright while they last but 8 volts is about all a "6V" filament can handle for long.
Assuming the new alternator-equipped engine has a 12V (130-tooth) flywheel, you'll need a matching starter and the bellhousing has to be clearanced slightly in five spots for the larger-diameter 'wheel. Also it must use an early-style clutch cover with center thrust ring to be compatible with the `66 transmission's cross-shaft/release bearing setup.
If you use a "normal" (SR15X) starter the bushing in the bellhousing will have to be replaced with a special thick-wall adapter bushing; an AutoStick (SR17X) starter is self-supporting so you can skip that step if you use one of those.
If the wiring's basically healthy it (and the switches) should be fine on 12V (it takes only half the current to deliver the same power at the higher voltage). You may even be able to get away with keeping the 6V flasher relay, many people have run them on 12V for years without burning out. If it does fail, you can forego the 4-way feature and use a simple 12V flasher, switch to a `67/`68 flasher relay, or rewire the hazard system to the `69-up style that uses a complex switch rather than the compound relay.
You'll need to change all the bulbs - they'll be bright while they last but 8 volts is about all a "6V" filament can handle for long.
Assuming the new alternator-equipped engine has a 12V (130-tooth) flywheel, you'll need a matching starter and the bellhousing has to be clearanced slightly in five spots for the larger-diameter 'wheel. Also it must use an early-style clutch cover with center thrust ring to be compatible with the `66 transmission's cross-shaft/release bearing setup.
If you use a "normal" (SR15X) starter the bushing in the bellhousing will have to be replaced with a special thick-wall adapter bushing; an AutoStick (SR17X) starter is self-supporting so you can skip that step if you use one of those.
If the wiring's basically healthy it (and the switches) should be fine on 12V (it takes only half the current to deliver the same power at the higher voltage). You may even be able to get away with keeping the 6V flasher relay, many people have run them on 12V for years without burning out. If it does fail, you can forego the 4-way feature and use a simple 12V flasher, switch to a `67/`68 flasher relay, or rewire the hazard system to the `69-up style that uses a complex switch rather than the compound relay.
Last edited by Marc on Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Speedy Jim
- Posts: 2290
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
- Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
****sigh****
One more time, there is no direct correlation between clutch diameter and flywheel tooth count.
1200/1300cc engines came with 180mm clutches, 1500/1600cc engines came with 200mm clutches; in the US market bugs all got 1500s in 1967, the same year all our cars went 12V. In this one case the term "12v 200mm" is almost accurate...until you remember the pre`67 6V buses and Type IIIs that also had 1500s and 200mm clutches.
Of course I'm referring to the pre`71 200mm clutch cover (311 141 025E) in this instance because it's a fairly safe assumption that if RyanB has a 130-tooth flywheel it takes a 200mm clutch. There are 130-tooth 'wheels which take 180mm clutches - but none came on any car delivered in the US.
One more time, there is no direct correlation between clutch diameter and flywheel tooth count.
1200/1300cc engines came with 180mm clutches, 1500/1600cc engines came with 200mm clutches; in the US market bugs all got 1500s in 1967, the same year all our cars went 12V. In this one case the term "12v 200mm" is almost accurate...until you remember the pre`67 6V buses and Type IIIs that also had 1500s and 200mm clutches.
Of course I'm referring to the pre`71 200mm clutch cover (311 141 025E) in this instance because it's a fairly safe assumption that if RyanB has a 130-tooth flywheel it takes a 200mm clutch. There are 130-tooth 'wheels which take 180mm clutches - but none came on any car delivered in the US.
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aussiebug
- Posts: 1520
- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2001 12:01 am
Re the wipers - there's a neat little circuit on my site which runs the 6v wipers on 12v with no excess heat (as happens when using a resistor).
Just four components from Tandy/Radio Shack etc
http://www.vw-resource.com/wiper1.html
Just four components from Tandy/Radio Shack etc
http://www.vw-resource.com/wiper1.html
Regards
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and Maintenance for the home mechanic
www.vw-resource.com
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and Maintenance for the home mechanic
www.vw-resource.com
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John Denhart
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Wed May 09, 2007 10:19 am
Almost 30 years ago I converted my 65 6v bug to 12v. I used Ford Cortina generator components in the Bosch housing then just changed bulbs, flasher and dropped the wiper motor to 8v using a resistor from a forklift. The wipers worked great ( as liitle as we use them here in San Diego ) with out energizing. I just let the 6v starter rip as I used it sparingly.
[img][IMG]http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii21 ... /VW002.jpg[/img][/img]
- Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
The stock fuel gauge on a pre`68 Beetle is mechanical and unaffected by the conversion. If you have an optional electric gauge and it's the thermal type, it'll have to be replaced..but if it's the balance coil type as was used in 6V 'Ghias and buses it should be able to handle the higher voltage.
A 6V horn might burn out after a few minutes' continuous operation on 12V, but it's so horrendously loud that you'll only be using it for seconds.
A 6V horn might burn out after a few minutes' continuous operation on 12V, but it's so horrendously loud that you'll only be using it for seconds.