2276cc, 12:1 CR, Roller-Cammed Daily Driven Oxyboxer

Here's the place for info on converting to a Type V motor!
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Stripped66
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2276cc, 12:1 CR, Roller-Cammed Daily Driven Oxyboxer

Post by Stripped66 »

Since a few folks have asked about sticking a roller cam/lifters into a converted wasserboxer case, I figured I would shed some light on the conversion, and identify the problems that had to be overcome.

Some basic information to start with:

82mm stroke (CW and welded wasserboxer crank with 411 center main)
94mm Super Squish pistons
Pauter VN119 roller cam (256 deg @ 0.050", 0.380" at the lobe)
044 heads ported by Darren Gurrolla
2.1L WBX case

The goal was to try out some cool technology and see how it would run as a daily driver. My heads are DRD L6 heads, maybe good for 200 HP at best. I've wanted to try the squishy pistons since John started selling them; BTW, I'm not going to argue with anybody about these pistons or my chosen compression ratio; it WORKS...it's not up for debate. The WBX case was chosen as the foundation for a short-block that would see some daily driven miles for a few years, then would probably be turbo'd and leave the street (strip only, 400-500+ HP).

So, here are the parts:

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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

Another case pic:
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TWM 48mm throttle-bodies (DCOE pattern...).
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The mock-up of the crank/cam/lifters:
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Long block from the rear:
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Long block from the front:
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And the side...
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With tin installed:
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

Rocky Jennings modified the WBX case for air-cooled, made the oil-filter housing that allows me to mount the stock oil cooler in the doghouse, and modified the lifter bores to accept SBC-diameter Isky RedZone roller lifters (which he also modified). The lifters have a flat machined onto the body and guide plates index the lifters. That's as much as I'll say about the modifications for the roller lifters...if you want to know more, call Rocky and put in a deposit for a case :twisted:

The converted WBX case has a very tall deck; this required that I find head studs that had a lot of thread cut on one side so that I could shorten the studs by 0.7". BugPack's chromolly studs were the only ones I found that fit the bill. Stock, Raceware, or ARP all would've been too long and would've not had enough thread. I also had to have a set of cylinders turned down about 0.700" to set the deck. Even with all the work that Rocky did on the conversion, this is not a bolt-together set-up. You had better do your homework and, ultimately, know what you're doing.

The real issues with the roller conversion revolve around the valvetrain. Because this is a daily driver, I stuck with the 044 head casting. This limited me to only VW-diameter valve springs. If I had run Comp Eliminators, I'd just run K800's and be done with it.
I located the stiffest VW-diameter springs I could find: Crower 68311. These are a Vasco Jet H11 material for SBC (1.270" diameter) and fit into the VW spring pocket. I'm running Crower's ti retainers and chromo keepers that reduce the installed height by 0.050" (thus, less shims needed under the spring). I'm running these with CB Performance RaceMaster valves...these are about 0.200" longer and use a Chevy keeper. The 68311's set-up with about 430-440 lbs of pressure over the nose (Crower actually makes this same spring in a PacAlloy material which pushes 460 lbs...but they cost $120 more than the Vasco Jet material, which is already around $210 for a set of 16).

Because I'm arguably under-sprung for a roller cam, I'm also running aircooled.net's aluminum pushrods. So far with this combo, I've pushed to about 7250 rpm without valve-float.

The rockers are Scat 1.4:1. I decided to run these without lash-caps because the rocker studs are not long enough to run 'em and still maintain proper geometry (remember, the valves are .200" longer). The valve tips must be pretty hard because they have begun to wear a groove into the pad of the rocker arms at less than 1000 miles. I'm probably going to replace them with Pauters and get rid of the last of the Chinese-made parts on this engine.

I'm also running Pauter pushrod tubes, which are much larger in diameter than JayCee's. This allows the big end to seat against the case and provides plenty of clearance for the very tall roller lifters. The small diameter of the tube seats against the head just fine...no leaks so far.
BlownFinn
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Post by BlownFinn »

Absolutly beautiful! Great looking case.
Who did your crank, if I may ask?

Niklas
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

BlownFinn wrote:Absolutly beautiful! Great looking case.
Who did your crank, if I may ask?

Niklas
Jose at DPR did the crank. Welded and offset ground to 82mm (VW rod journals); counterweighted and welded up the #2 main to 411 diameter. I also had the crank and flywheel wedgemated.

It was spendy, but well-worth the price.
BlownFinn
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Post by BlownFinn »

Ok, thanks for the info. Good luck with the project.

Niklas
Steve Arndt
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Post by Steve Arndt »

Does your crank pulley have a larger OD snout to match up with the stock wasser seal?
Gideon
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I'm starting a similar project

Post by Gideon »

Stripped 66, it is almost like you read my mind with this project. I just had my wasser cases stripped and cleaned to go over to Rocky's. I have been thinking about roller followers too, but the GM (delphi) hydro versions instead. I also have some other ideas. Who made the throttle bodies? Which injection are you using?

It will be nice to see how yours works out.
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Stripped66
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Post by Stripped66 »

Steve Arndt wrote:Does your crank pulley have a larger OD snout to match up with the stock wasser seal?
This was a stock-style pulley with the labyrinth seal; I had the machine shop turn the snout down until the labyrinth seal was gone. It's only a few thousandths smaller in diameter than the 2.1L pulley.
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Stripped66
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Re: I'm starting a similar project

Post by Stripped66 »

Gideon wrote:I have been thinking about roller followers too, but the GM (delphi) hydro versions instead.
You're going to have to find a REALLY mild roller grind if you're going to stick with hydraulic followers...something on the range of 225 degrees @ 0.050" or less.
Who made the throttle bodies? Which injection are you using?
TWM throttle bodies, Electromotive Tec-GT EFI. Can't say I'm happy with the Electromotive EFI at the moment. I just had the toothed pulley for the crank trigger turned on the lathe and I'm waiting for a new pick-up from Electromotive. I hate to say it, but if this doesn't cure my EFI problems, I'm ripping it out.
Gideon
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roller profiles

Post by Gideon »

Stripped, Yes that what I was going for. I'm planning on jacking the lobe centerlines around to try to remove excessive overlap and make thing easier on the injection. Comp has some good looking profiles. Although I'm not sure if it is worth it. If you look at the duration at .200 compared to a VW grind you don't gain any advantage with the same duration at .050. One of the benefits of the mushroom lifter.
Gideon
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oil cooler

Post by Gideon »

Stripped, How does that Jennings oil cooler set-up work? Are you running a sandwich thermostst in the stock filter location?
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Stripped66
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Re: oil cooler

Post by Stripped66 »

Gideon wrote:Stripped, How does that Jennings oil cooler set-up work? Are you running a sandwich thermostst in the stock filter location?
It works just fine :lol: The Type 1 oil cooler sits perfectly in the doghouse.

Take a look at the build-up of the long-block. You'll seen an AN-8 fitting on the inlet at the stock filter location. I am running an Earl's thermostat sandwich adapter, but it's at the remote filter mount in the rear fenderwell.
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Tom Notch
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Post by Tom Notch »

Did you try the longer rocker studs that Berg sells? I used them on my SEs that have .200 longer valves in them.

Your case may be the one Rocky showed me the oil cooler adaptor on. I like it and will probably get one for mine. I plan on running an Accusump also.
Tom

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Steve Arndt
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Post by Steve Arndt »

Tom,
The accusump has been working on my baja 2275cc. I use the 3 qt version, solenoid for actuation. No burned bearings and I don't have a deep sump on it!
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