ITS ALIVE!!!!

flat_iv · Post by **flat_iv** » Fri Dec 05, 2008 5:10 pm

Arent all radiator systems supose to be pressurized? What car did your radiator originally come from. I have a 74 Ghia with a 2.2 and the radiator in the nose and the only opening that I have is a small slot under the car approx. 4" x 18" opening and a small scoup to bring the air to the radiator. Has never overheated but it was a tiring getting the air out of the system. I used a radiator from a early VW Golf and placed the overflow tank in the rear engine compartment.

pploco · Post by **pploco** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 8:54 am

I just realized I had a leak on the hose from the water manifold. I fixed it and will watch it for a few days. The coolant system has definately been the brain teaser in my conversion. Can't tell you how many times I sit and stare, scratch my head, throw a wrench, and wash coolant off my face. Live and learn right?

I did find another wierdo thing.... I notice when my radiator fans are running, I don't have near as much power. I wonder if my alternator isn't up to the task. It charges the battery fine, but if the rad fan, or my nifty heater is running, there is a noticable power drop. Thoughts?

Baja Wes · Post by **Baja Wes** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 3:13 pm

Your radiator should definitely be pressurised. It will boil way too early if it isn't.

Get a new muffler, something that breathes better. The stock hayabusa muffler isn't good enough for a 1300cc Hayabusa, and I doubt gutting it would help much. I tried a bike muffler on my V6 and it was restrictive;

I now run a basically straight through 2.5" muffler

Do you have a voltmeter? What does it do when both thermo's come on?

They should NOT effect the power of the engine.

petew · Post by **petew** » Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:26 pm

have you got a decent battery? I notice the idle drop a little when the fans come but it shouldn't make a huge difference to engine power.

re the cooling. the pressure drop was cos of the hole in the hose. you now need to make sure the system is bled properly. once that's done it shouldn't get hot.

vw1303 · Post by **vw1303** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:02 am

congrats on gettin it running man. wish i was as far along as you. still sitting with a mess fo wires and my car is on the other side of the pacific.

What are you using to control your rad fans? is there provision in the stinger ecu for that?

pploco · Post by **pploco** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:08 am

Update:

Love this site... So I took another long look at my cooling setup and realized I had a couple things setup wrong. My expansion tank is the original tank that came on the twin ej20 jdm. I pulled the top off and realized I had a blockage on the outlet that sits under the cap for pressure to escape. I bled the system and have been driving for a couple of days with no spikes.

I also found that one of my rad fans was shorting on the chassis. The cable had pinched and probably was doing bad things to the computer or igniter. I fixed the wire, now have BOTH rad fans working, and have noticed no loss in power when the fans kick on. WAHOO! Yes the EMS stinger has two wires that run right to the rad fans and kick them on about 185* and then kicks off at 170* or so.

I still want to try Wes' recommendation for a different pipe. I hadn't thought that the bike pipe would be restrictive with the baffle removed. I'll pull the pipe and run it without for a bit to see if it makes a difference.

Thanks all!!! I'll keep ya posted.

fl_buggy · Post by **fl_buggy** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:18 am

pploco wrote:I also found that one of my rad fans was shorting on the chassis. The cable had pinched and probably was doing bad things to the computer or igniter. I fixed the wire, now have BOTH rad fans working, and have noticed no loss in power when the fans kick on.

What was happening is whenever power was being sent to that fan, it was shorting to the chassis, so your alternator was pushing its max amperage feeding that short. That's why power was down.

petew · Post by **petew** » Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:41 pm

fl_buggy wrote:
pploco wrote:I also found that one of my rad fans was shorting on the chassis. The cable had pinched and probably was doing bad things to the computer or igniter. I fixed the wire, now have BOTH rad fans working, and have noticed no loss in power when the fans kick on.
What was happening is whenever power was being sent to that fan, it was shorting to the chassis, so your alternator was pushing its max amperage feeding that short. That's why power was down.

that's pretty much what I was thinking. you're pretty lucky the ECU still ran with such low current. you're also VERY lucky it didn't find some way to catch on fire!

pploco · Post by **pploco** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:36 am

Agreed!

Things have been much better since the plumbing is fixed and the short is fixed. In response to my cluttered wiring and slapped together electrical, I spent a few hours cleaning things up last night. Funny how much better a car feels when its clean and organized. On Saturday I plan to put the rest of the interior in and hopefully put my bigger injectors in. I'll have access to a great shop and a subie tuning expert over the week of Christmas and would like to see what this motor can do on 20lbs of boost.

petew · Post by **petew** » Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:36 pm

20lbs? One word my friend...

INTERCOOLING!

pploco · Post by **pploco** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 8:16 am

Now I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination. Using my noodle, I can logically see a benefit of intercooling as keeping the air cool - therefore dense and more abundant. I also understand that cooler air incoming = cooler engine, but am I missing something else? Do we intercool turbo motors with hight PSI to keep the heat down because of increased pressure or is it more for performance?

I do have an intercooler on mine - just in the stock location under my cut out parcel tray. I get okay airflow to it, but I'd like to move it out towards the back of the car under the fiberglass ducktail to catch more airflow.

petew · Post by **petew** » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:46 pm

aside of keeping the air dense, the intercooler stops one thing that is more deadly to turbo engines that anything else....predetonation (or pinging). Pinging is caused by a few things. One is mixture. Lean mixture causes it. So do contaminants like oil in the mixture. The other that causes it is heat. Heat can come in from the outside of the combustion chamber (the turbo in your case) or it can be caused by big cylinder pressures like lots of boost or high compression (racing or diesel engines).

Your car has most of the pre-existing factors for predetonation. The higher the boost, the more heat and the quicker it will EAT HOLES in your pistons. There are a few ways around this (alcohol fuel, nitrous oxide) but proper intercooling is the most streetcar friendly.

I know you have a stock intercooler, what you need to figure out now is whether it is acting as a cooling device or not. Nissan built a car for the WRC called the Pulsar GtiR with 4wd and a 2litre turbo motor. The Intercooler sat on top of the motor. Unfortunately, although on the road it was ok, in competition it did not fair so well and the intercooler garnered the name "interwarmer". WRXs suffer the same issue after a a certain amount of time at full boost due to hard driving. They can be helped with a waterspray setup, but they still need a decent direct air supply. I seriously doubt yours is getting that where it is. You can duct air to it, or put a water-air unit in with a front rad, or mount a larger air-air intercooler on the back of the car in the cars direct airflow. Either way, to run really big boost, like over 14pnds, you need to do something properly.

Sorry for the essay.

some more info;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intercooler
http://autospeed.com/A_107759/cms/article.html
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_intercooling.html

do yourself a favour. do some reading the save your engine from all sorts of trouble.

pploco · Post by **pploco** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 8:37 am

Very good information!! Thank you. I hadn't even considered predetonation. I wonder if I bring the intercooler back and sit it under the rear window kinda like a wing it will get enough air flow.

vw1303 · Post by **vw1303** » Mon Dec 15, 2008 4:18 pm

I currently driving the aforemention GTiR here in Japan. With the temperature dropping recently I have noticed a definate increase in power compared to the hot summer weather. Turbos and intercoolers like cool air. Some guys put a FMIC on these cars and put an external oil cooler in place of the existing TMIC.

As far as intercooling the bug. This has always been a big obstacle for people trying to turbocharge their cars. Most aircooled guys don`t run intercoolers. My idea for intercooling my bug is to put some NACA ducts in the rear windows feeding some fans and then blowing onto an air to air intercooling that is raised up from the stock subaru placement. I want to build a shroud around the intercooler as to prevent any heat soak from the engine. Heatsoak is the biggest problem with TMIC especially on my GTiR or other subies for that matter. Some people are using PWR air water intercoolers, I personally don't want the extra complication of running more water lines and another rad in the front. Also look at what the porsche guys are doing. They run massive air to air intercoolers with fans on top. I have taken some of my ideas from them.

petew · Post by **petew** » Sat Dec 20, 2008 2:11 am

the spooler look works well...

porsche 930s run the intercooler under than massive teatray rear wing...

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid ... 0493006655

either works well as I understand it, however, it's not very stealth if you want it to be a sleeper.

the naca ducts could work ok, but I don't know if you'd get enough airflow to cool it well, you need a lot of air velocity for it to be effective without fans...which by the way, any fan is a drag on the electrical system of the car and robs you of more power. you'd need more than two naca ducts I reckon without fans. more like four...and the tubing from the ducts to the intercooler would need to have a smooth inside surface to allow good flow characteristics. with all that I'd still reckon a waterspray set up would be needed for when the motor really heats up.