Link Pin problem, HELP

CalLookVWs · Post by **CalLookVWs** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 6:29 pm

I'm trying to pull the rebuilt spindles off of my 59 bug, so that I can use them to put on my new 60 bug. For some reason, the link pins will not come out of the torsion arms. I have the pinch bolts completely removed, the link pins spin freely and I have soaked them with penetrating oil. I've tried unscrewing them and tapping them with a brass hammer, while I have two screw drivers wedged into the torsion arms, spreading the link pin hole wider. The spindles were rebuilt before I bought the car (according to the P.O.). I now have the arms out of the beam and still no success. The link pins move out about 3/8" and then get stuck. Any ideas?

perrib · Post by **perrib** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 7:45 pm

Since it moves 3/8" ,they may have a burr on the inside edge where the bolt passes through.

CalLookVWs · Post by **CalLookVWs** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 10:52 am

That's what I was thinking. Maybe one of the washers/shims ate into the link pin? This morning I beat on the spindle with a 2x4 and a 2 1/2 pound sledge, still no luck. I'm about ready to heat the arm around the link pin with a torch and try it again. I just hate to use a torch on suspension pieces that I plan or reusing

perrib · Post by **perrib** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 11:26 am

lookin the hole with a mag light you should be able to se it and use a small Dremel tool to clean it up.

CalLookVWs · Post by **CalLookVWs** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 11:30 am

Ahhhhhhh-HA! Thanks for the idea.... And I'm off to the man cave!

CalLookVWs · Post by **CalLookVWs** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:01 pm

Well, I found the problem. I put the spindle / torsion arms combo into the vice, tapped the link pins back in, and there it was. It looks like someone tried to beat the snot out of the link pins with a steel hammer and flared the link pins. I cleaned the ends up with a flap wheel, got a dull punch and with a few light taps, the link pins were out! Thanks for the replies! Now, over to the left side.

-Shaggy

perrib · Post by **perrib** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 8:25 pm

They were peend in case the bolts came out.

CalLookVWs · Post by **CalLookVWs** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:45 pm

I don't want to peen them when they get reinstalled onto the new car. Maybe I could talk the P.O. into showing me how to safety wire, zip-tie and duct tape them for added security. I swear, everything he did before I got the car, was "goofy" to put it lightly.

Post by **david58** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 1:55 pm

CalLookVWs wrote:I don't want to peen them when they get reinstalled onto the new car. Maybe I could talk the P.O. into showing me how to safety wire, zip-tie and duct tape them for added security. I swear, everything he did before I got the car, was "goofy" to put it lightly.

PO Goofy would be the one to ask for sure.

perrib · Post by **perrib** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:26 pm

It was a joke

. Red and blue locktite cures most loosening troubles. Satey wire double nutting cannot hurt and its cheap. Every bolt and nut was saftey wired on my 1974 CZ dirt bike. I try to use flat and waved washers everwhere I can. Jam and Metal locking nuts are availiable. Even after two trips to Boulder Mountain all the suspension bolts stayed tight. The solid mounted engine and transxle mount bolts were another story.
Tightening nuts and bolts with a torque wrench helps.

CalLookVWs · Post by **CalLookVWs** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:25 pm

I was joking too. It's just a street car with a HUGE 1641 single port.