My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

dstar5000 · Post by **dstar5000** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:10 pm

What's the lowdown on the kafer bar?

I need Tractor Supply part numbers for the rods.

Don

ColoRam · Post by **ColoRam** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:50 am

Unfortunately, I can't give you numbers for tractor supply. When I got my bars I got them locally from an implement dealer. They are links for 3 point tractor hitches.

I measured across between the two shock towers, and that measurement was like 36 inches. The long bar is called a "stabilizer bar" that fits between the towers. One end mounting point was bent up at an angle, you just have to bend it flat with a vice, trailer hitch, etc.

Then I measured from upper shock mount to the bottom side of the trans, and IIRC that was like 12 or 14 inches. The links I got for that were the shortest I could find, and I ended up having to cut some off each side of the tube and trim some off of each part of the threaded section with the heim joints (they would touch in the middle of the tube). Not too hard if you have a chop saw for steel...

Then I just fabbed the mounts out of angle iron and plate to get it all to go together. The shock towers each have an angled section with one angle mounted to the shock and one holding the upper heim joint on the short arms. There is a plate welded on top of that angle section that holds the longer bar.

Hopefully this helps you some at least... Sorry I don't know the part numbers. If you have any more questions about it let me know and ill try to go into more detail.

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:51 am

dstar5000 wrote:What's the lowdown on the kafer bar?

I need Tractor Supply part numbers for the rods.

Don

They are in the how-to on Tunas site...

ColoRam · Post by **ColoRam** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:43 am

From the very fingers of the man who did the original writeup. Thanks for that pile!

tuna · Post by **tuna** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 10:37 am

Piledriver wrote: They are in the how-to on Tunas site...

http://tunacan.net/t4/howto/kaferbrace/

Post by **Piledriver** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:05 pm

Cool, I wasn't sure your website was back to normal.

ColoRam · Post by **ColoRam** » Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:00 am

Well, I got a new starter put in the bug, and I still can't get engine to turn over again

Checked timing, firing order, changed to brand new spark plugs... Still does not want to turn over.

I am getting my cyls to "pop" when i try to start it, but they don't act like they are fully igniting. This weekend I am going to try getting the gas out of the tank and putting fresh gas in, but I don't see whay that would be a problem. (Tank has only had gas in it for a few weeks)

Any thoughts on what else to check? Im stumped.

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:43 am

ColoRam wrote:Well, I got a new starter put in the bug, and I still can't get engine to turn over again

Checked timing, firing order, changed to brand new spark plugs... Still does not want to turn over.

I am getting my cyls to "pop" when i try to start it, but they don't act like they are fully igniting. This weekend I am going to try getting the gas out of the tank and putting fresh gas in, but I don't see whay that would be a problem. (Tank has only had gas in it for a few weeks)

Any thoughts on what else to check? Im stumped.

Unbolt the negative battery cable from the pan and check for corrosion. Clean as necessary and apply a dab of grease when reassembling. I have seen many bugs have hard starting problems from that, and I have seen their owners go crazy trying to find the problem.

If that comes out ok check the condition of the wiring between the starter, battery, and the ignition switch, especially at the terminals. Snip and shorten suspicious wires and install new terminals. You could also install the "hard start relay kit", for some it has cured their starting problem if your wiring is not sending enough juice from your battery up thru your key and then back to the starter to crank over.

ColoRam · Post by **ColoRam** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 5:57 pm

Sorry, I guess I used some pretty un-clear terminology. My new starter is working absolutely great, and that definately was one of my issues that is now resolved.

Now, the engine turns fine and the cylinders do like the half-ignition "pop" as it tries to start up. I know I'm getting some combustion because there is the smell of burt gas coming out of the exhaust, but it just does not act like it relly wants to full-on run. I do have vapor coming out the top of my carbs when I try to start it, not sure if that is unusual or not... Just crazy that it ran so well on first startup and now this...

Post by **Piledriver** » Sat Oct 17, 2009 8:21 pm

Pull 3 plug wires.

Turn the distributor until it fires and limps on 1.

Reinstall the rest in the right order then finish setting the timing at 3500 RPM per usual.

If you don't have a timing tight, you can static time it to get her running, but you REALLY need a timing light, preferably an advance type.

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:52 pm

i was gonna say wires in the wrong places. sounds like every motor i have ever tried to start.

ColoRam · Post by **ColoRam** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:00 pm

Thanks for throwing out ideas gents. I will be making a solid effort to get her going this weekend and see what happens. In the mean time, its been too long since I have flooded your connections with pictures, so here is an update (just a cell phone pic)

Fitted my cup wheels this weekend, they look goooooood

Need some spacers though...

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:07 pm

ColoRam wrote:Thanks for throwing out ideas gents. I will be making a solid effort to get her going this weekend and see what happens. In the mean time, its been too long since I have flooded your connections with pictures, so here is an update (just a cell phone pic)

Fitted my cup wheels this weekend, they look goooooood

Need some spacers though...

ColoRam · Post by **ColoRam** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 1:41 pm

Well, piss poor weekend for the bug...

Went to try to set timing and discovered I now have NO spark... WTF

.

Pulled coil, just checked it for resistance. Resistance was there, and close enough to the values it should have. No loss of continuity.
Checked wiring to coil, and that also checked out. Checked battery voltage and it was fully charged. Checked that wires were firmly connected. Checked "coil" fuse in fuse panel (EZ Wiring panel). What in god's name else is there to check??

On a different note, for people who have experience bleeding a totally empty brake system, can you do it without a vaccum bleeder system? Tried to pump the pedal for quite a while but the system didn't act like it was taking any fluid from the resivour. Any tips from the pros on brake bleeding?

dstar5000 · Post by **dstar5000** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:15 am

Do you have an aquarium?

Don

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My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)

Re: My GL standard beetle & 2056 type 4 build (pix)