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It is pulsed mechanical injection (Bosch high pressure right?). I do know that timing wascritical...but I don't knowwhat its timing was referenced to. Technically it is sequential. Just don't know how or if its synchronized. It may not matter either. At those pressures, as long as the valve is at some point open, as the injector injects, that system can easily be made to deliver a full injections worth. Those injectors were huge.Ray
I used to service a 71 911 with that system but never had to work on the fuel system. The toothed gear is driven by the crankshaft with what looks like a miniature timing belt. The fuel line routing from the pump to the injectors and the appearance of the injectors was so similar to CIS that i took for granted that it was a continuous injection system, pressure being relative to crankshaft speed. Having since read a bit about bosch mecanical systems I know it was probably more complicated than that. The pumps are similar to diesel pumps. Fuel is forced into the line by a piston whos bore and stroke determine injection quantity. There is also some valving to take care of enrichment wich is linked to a lever in the car for cold start, much like a maual choke. I believe it was sequential.
I'm no expert on it by can say with some certainty that it was one of my absolute favorite cars to work on and test drive.
j-bro wrote:... The toothed gear is driven by the crankshaft with what looks like a miniature timing belt.
FYI, the injection pump with the Bosch mechanical FI on 'E' and 'S' cars from that period, is being driven of the left side cam, not the crankshaft
BMW had a similar system with a Kugelfisher pump on their Tii versions.
These 4 cylinder Kugelfisher pumps were later used on a lot of type 4's in buggy (dirt track) cross competition. The mechanical injection gave more power than carbs, but used enormous amouts of fuel! so its not really in its place here in this thread
Regards,
Walter
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi in a streetlegal 1303
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
Ray
I was referring to raising the top ring to shorten the crown. However taking the top of the piston down would also work if you changed the stroke or rod to compensate for the loss in height.
I was trying to say that I thought that a smaller crown helps the engine run more clean.
Can anybody confirm this?
Jake,
Thanks for the answer. I'll update my sheet to include those dimensions.
I'm not sure I really understand the concept here of moving the top ring...but....are you speaking of the length...of the remainder of the piston...above the top ring? I take it you mean by having a custum piston made? Just a total guess...but I could "speculate", that since the outward force of the rings below....keep the piston somewhat centered in the bore, the piston to bore clearance allows gap equivalent to that clearance at the edge of the piston. Th longer the distance is bewteen the top of te piston and the top of the first ring....may allow more gasses to "wedge" between the piston and bore....possibly causing poor efficiency. But...I would also think the more "wdging" force those gases have at the ring land.....the better outward force you get on the rings. Ray
The area between the the top of the top ring and the top of the piston is called "crevis space". Reducing this area does promote a cleaner burn as the charge occupying this area rarely reacts completely, if at all. However, moving the top ring closer to the combustion chamber quite often reduces the life of the ring. The crevis space on an aircooled engine can be reduced slightly, though this should be approached with caution.
Ham
That is exactly what I was reffering to. Thanks. Maby Jake will try playing with this seing as hee does a lot of custom stuff already. Imagine a 2.8L Honda clean type4
Waiting Jake.......