upright turbo build

[Piledriver]

I suspect the tech at SCAT is likely simply not familiar with it.
The restriction is the rod to bearing clearance.

Making the rod side play .010 or .250" does not matter at all with .~002" rod bearing clearance the oil must pass through.

If you can get the pistons set up for ~.005" rod small end side clearance and pin oiling (from the oil ring groove) you are all set.
4032 pistons should work great with that setup as they run tight clearances.

[tonyorlo]

I talked to the Weisco tech after speaking the the SCAT tech, so I didnt ask him about the piston guided idea. I am not sure if the underside of the piston is machined so I would be able to properly shim to the .005 clearence. Im sure I would be able to have Weisco modify the piston for the forced pin oiling if I had them make the other modifications.

I actually emailed SCAT a few weeks ago about the piston guided rod before I called them and another tech emailed me back. He said "rods are rods, so as long as you have the proper journal on the crank and the piston pin diameter the rest is irrelevant".

So this gives me a few options using the stock 1.8 crank

T1 SCAT H beam rods w/ ARP studs
94mm Type 1 pistons modified for forced pin oiling
or,
1.8 T4 resized rods w/ ARP studs
94mm T1 Pistons modified with 1.8 pin height and dia

Either way I plan to have the rotating assembly balanced. Is the extra expense worth is for the SCAT rods? I am sure they are lighter than those stock T4s also.

As for cylinders, should I try to locate stock 1.8 cylinders, or get a set of new 2.0s with the same bore as the pistons?

[Piledriver]

Just get some 2L jugs, but measure them b4 ordering the pistons, order the pistons for the jugs to match spec wise.
I know EMWs 103s are great cast iron, but I think their 93-94/96mm jugs are just AAs.

Mahle 94As would be pretty close...

Reboring used German 93s would be ideal, but is probably more hassle than its worth.
Shipping those around the country is expensive and tricky to keep them in one piece.

[tonyorlo]

I may be able to get a set of mahles, but all their new stuff is made in Brazil, I assume that’s not nearly as good as the German made stuff? I actually came across a good deal on a 2l 94 mahle piston and cyl kit. I might jump on those now. The seller says they are forged, I am taking his word for it because I can’t see them in person.

I have been thinking about my heads today, the research I’ve done shows them to be bus heads. The local engine shops cleaned them and pressure tested them. They both passed. I think I am going to take the gamble with them and try to find someone to go over them. Like EMW.

[tonyorlo]

Casting

[Clatter]

“S” heads are considered the next best thing to the 2.0 914..

They -are- known to be fragile.
Look for cracks running along the short side radius of the exhaust port.

If no cracks,
They can do well.
Some will upgrade the valves to better flowing thin-stem like Manley or SI.
A good upgrade is going from 9mm valves/guides on the exhaust.
Otherwise, run ‘em!

[Clatter]

If they need seats,
Might as well go to 42 x 36.

[tonyorlo]

All the stuff I have read about dropped seats, I feel like I should have them replaced. Is there a way to tell of their condition, or if they should be replaced? If I do have them replaced then I definitely will go larger.

I paid the shop to clean, inspect, and pressure test them. They said they looked ok and passed the test fine.

[tonyorlo]

Clatter,

I just read through your beginners build thread, very helpful! It cleared up a lot of questions that I had. I will definitely be referring back to it when I start the assembly process.

[Clatter]

There's a link in my build for the "Ghetto Oven Head Test" (Or search it).

If the seats are all tight, and there are no cracks,
If all of the exhaust studs are OG,
If it only takes a minimal cut to clean up the cylinder seating surface,
You might just luck out.

if those are indeed lightly-used, low-mileage, etc.
You should be able to get away with running them.

What does the guide fit look like?

Theoretically, a smaller motor with a turbo shouldn't need bigger valves..

[tonyorlo]

I am really in a VW Dead zone here, the closest VW shop that does machine work is almost 2 hours away. I spoke to
Him on the phone yesterday, he did not seemed concerned with the seats. He gave me his price for going through type 1 heads, and he said type 4s will be a little more because the parts cost more.

I will definitely look up your Oven Head test, I am all for doing as much as I can before I take them to a shop. I have a oven for powdercoatkng so that won’t be a problem.

All my local shops are Chevy and Ford guys, dare I have them change the guides, do a valve job, and surface the heads? If no I will make the trip to the VW shop.

I will check the valve fitnent tomorrow, the valves in the head weren’t in the best shape I have a friend who is a machinist. I am sure he could give me a hand measuring them.

I do agree with you on the valve size. I don’t plan to make big power, I think the turbo will work ok with the stock valve heads.

[tonyorlo]

I’m looking to buy a 2l crank. I am planning on getting this one from John at aircooled.net.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/DPR-Type-4 ... -crank.htm

Or should I look elsewhere for the crank? I plan to buy the rest of my engine parts from EMW.

What’s the consensus on transmission mounts? I’ve read so many different articles. I was thinking of strapping the bellhousing side and running a bushing at the nose cone. Should I also consider a mid mount, like what gene berg sells?

[Clatter]

If you go this route, you can run type 1 rods, which are cheaper.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/DPR-DELUXE ... t1-rod.htm
It won't entirely even out,
But,
If you are paying for shipping and everything anyways..


If you are getting seats, then 42 x 36..
Maybe becoming beastly...?

[tonyorlo]

I have seen that crank, and it’s tempting. Anyone I talk to locally says counter weights on a flat 4 are pointless.

I pulled the trigger on pistons. 2l Mahle bus pistons from Texas air cooled. I contacted him and he said they are forged. I received them today, is their anyway to tell if they are really forged? The paperwork makes me doubtful.

I’d consider the counterweighted crank if I would be able to use these pistons. I would need something like a 5.25” rod to run them right?

I will research how to measure for valve guide wear and if it’s somthing I can do I will try. If not I will probably send the heads out to someone to have the guides and seats replaced, and cut them for dual springs. Then bigger is the only way to go!

I want to keep this mild lol. Durability over power. Should I be afraid to run my trans with full solid mounts? Can I even buy full solid mounts for the later tans?

[tonyorlo]

Pictures.