removed frame head bottom panel

[MNAirHead]

Try using sheet metal screws.. they may be your best clamp.

Dumb question - have we discussed getting a donor pan?

[dbcflash]

This IS the donor pan! The original was even WORSE!

Sheet metal screws are among the many ways I'll be clamping/pulling adjusting the framehead to get the position just right. I have to find time to do it though... busy busy week.

[jterr]

I'm still taking my framehead apart but noticed light rust in the tunnel on the bottom.
Any suggestions how to clean without removing the bottom?
JT

[dbcflash]

I plan on using a sponge brush on a long stick to reach way up inside mine, first to treat the rust, then to apply paint. I'll probably use either Rust bullet or POR15. I know I won't get 100% coverage, but I'll get the worst of it.

[jterr]

If you use bullet or por15 isn't it thick( havn't used them yet)?
I was thinking blowout real good , pour some ospho and slosh around then let dry and get some type primer that can be thinned and pour in and do same.
What do you think about that?

[doc]

There are some great tunnel pics here:

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... highlight=

same author, Caslor, had a thread where he was resealing the inside of a tunnel. It got quite a lot of play, as I recall. I couldn't find it quickly, but a little searching will turn it up if you're interested.

doc

[MNAirHead]

I used thinned Zero Rust.. it's low cost and can really be thinned down.

[jterr]

Tim
When you used zerorust did you put any primer/paint on it?
I wanted to try it in tunnel but was worried about puddling up anf if I still needed to paint.
JT

[MNAirHead]

With tunnel insides, I haven't been that concerned.

Tim

[Leatherneck]

Before you go to the trouble of mounting it make sure that the beam mount points are same measurements, and or not twisted and the beam will bolt on to it. Saw one other guy went through two aftermarket beam heads before taking one off another pan. Might not be a problem but.....

[dbcflash]

I have the beam bolted to the frame head. That's what I'm using to reference all my measurements. Level and square are the two most important measurements, followed by wheelbase and finally caster.

I won't be satisfied until I have them all just right, and I have no idea how long and how hard it will be. I've had a busy month so no progress, but things are slowing down now.

[dbcflash]

I welded on the new frame head. I had to split the back of the aftermarket thing just to get it to move down low enough to fit properly

It took forever to figure out that was the problem.
I took my measurements from a common point at the rear inspection plate


I measured to each shock tower


and then I measured to each tube



once all these measurements were correct, I put a level on the beam and welded it up

[MNAirHead]

Thanks for the update and pix

[dbcflash]

Well, I haven't posted in a while, 'cause the damned thing beat me. The aftermarket junk was just too far out of whack. Twisted, warped, put together wrong.
I went on vacation last week to the wonderfully dry state of Arizona, and I found a great, rust free frame head, from the napolean hat forward. It's currently 'in the mail' and when it gets here, I'll start posting again.

anyone wanna buy a slightly used aftermarket framehead?

[MNAirHead]

sorry about your misfortune.. I've always repaired my OEM frameheads vs putting on chineese steel.. had the same results with most panels.

Tim